questions before going to machine shop

[turbo98eclipse]

im planning on getting my engine (6 bolt) worked on. ive done some research, but have some questions, ill ask them in a numerical form:

1) i read that if im bringing it to get a bore and hone (and i want to use arp bolts on the main caps) that i need to have the main caps bolted and torqued onto the block?

2) i used a digital caliper to measure the bore on cylinders... they all checked out to be around 84/85mm... which im assuming is stock bore. if i want to have it bored bigger, .02 or .04, i read that im supposed to have the pistons/rods with me when i go to the shop? i cant just tell them "85.5mm please" and call it a day. im concerned because what if i buy a .02 over piston and then they say one cylinder was out of round and now i need a .04 piston... basically im asking how do i know how big a piston ill need for CERTAIN before i even go to the shop?

3) i will need my crank polished or ground down... do i need to include the crank pulley on the crank? (i read someplace i did)

4) do i get main and rod bearings before or after i go to the shop? im assuming after (because they may need to shave the crank, then id have to plastigauge everything to determine clearances?) any reason id need them before?

5) anything else i should know or have before i go?

thanks guys!

 

[viperlp01]

im planning on getting my engine (6 bolt) worked on. ive done some research, but have some questions, ill ask them in a numerical form:

1) i read that if im bringing it to get a bore and hone (and i want to use arp bolts on the main caps) that i need to have the main caps bolted and torqued onto the block?If you want to use ARP mains then send the block to them with the ARP mains installed with the main caps on. They will need to check to make sure your crank bore is still in perfect alignment. If it is not they will need to do an align hone to the crank bore. Also having the mains torqued down the the proper torque spec will simulate the crank being in the block. Whenever you torque something down on the block there are minor distortions that change certain things. Thats why people also use a torque plate to simulate a head being bolted to the block. All those things insure a perfectly round bore when everything is bolted down.

2) i used a digital caliper to measure the bore on cylinders... they all checked out to be around 84/85mm... which im assuming is stock bore. if i want to have it bored bigger, .02 or .04, i read that im supposed to have the pistons/rods with me when i go to the shop? i cant just tell them "85.5mm please" and call it a day. im concerned because what if i buy a .02 over piston and then they say one cylinder was out of round and now i need a .04 piston... basically im asking how do i know how big a piston ill need for CERTAIN before i even go to the shop?Stock bore is 85mm and you would really want to use a bore guage on the block but if you measure the pistons with the caliper that will give you an accurate number. The block is machined from the factory at 85mm and the piston is given the clearance. Depending on which piston you use you must do research into PTW clearance. Same goes for the pistons. The pistons are slightly smaller than .020 over but you do not want to bore your block to 85.5 just blindly. That may yeild a small PTW clearance that can cause scuffing of the cylinder walls from expansion of the piston onto the cylinder. I would just send the block to them and ask them will I be able to have this block bored to .020 over. IF they say yes everything checks out then go home and call your vendor of choice and order the pistons. Once you get them take them to the machinist and tell him the PTW clearance you want to run and he will do it.

3) i will need my crank polished or ground down... do i need to include the crank pulley on the crank? (i read someplace i did)The crank will be inspected and most likely will just need a polish unless you spun a bearing. If it needs cut on the rod journal they will only cut the rod journal so you will have standard mains and .010 rod bearings. You don't need to include your pulley

4) do i get main and rod bearings before or after i go to the shop? im assuming after (because they may need to shave the crank, then id have to plastigauge everything to determine clearances?) any reason id need them before?I would just wait to order the bearing until the crank is back. They will tell you exactly and may even be able to order the bearings for ya. Most machine shops have accounts to order pretty much any aftermarket engine internal.

5) anything else i should know or have before i go?Be patient. It takes to to machine things to very accurate specs and nothing is more annoying than some kid calling over and over again asking if his block is done. As a shop owner and the one doing alot of the engine work it is tough answering the phone when your in the middle of assembling the engine to talk to a customer about it. Not saying I am mad that they called but its an interuption.


thanks guys!

Let me know if you have any more questions.

 

[Kapok6]

Also make sure they use a torque plate. If they don't have one, tell them to invest in one. They are $300.

 

[viperlp01]

I did state to use a torque plate and why would a machine shop that works on V8s all day and maybe does one or two 4g63s all year invest in a torque plate. That doesn't sound like a good investment to me. Hell they might have one but I would call around and try to find a shop that might have a 4g63 torque plate.