questions about replacing rear seal and gasket(s)

[juntjoo]

I read that you need to remove the oil pan to get that seal out properly. What are your opinions about that and

what about these gaskets here:

Buy Felpro Rear Main Seal Set BS 40648 at Advance Auto Parts

If you replace those then do you need to absolutely drop the oil pan?

or do I just go with this one:

Buy Beck/Arnley Rear Crankshaft Seal 052-3611 at Advance Auto Parts

 

[ManticSHadow]

Just Literally got done with this hassle that Felpro set is the same set I got from oriellys and no you dont have to remove the oil pan but there is 2 screws(i believe) that go through the oil pan into the seal. If your replacing the gasket and seal push the seal in with a flat block of wood slowly I ended up cracking the first oil cap(its only aluminum) had to order another :/ but the kit comes with gaskets for both 1g and 2g.

Youll have to remove rear main cap to install the seal so youll have to drop the transmission to get to it behind the clutch its held on by 5 screws.

 

[juntjoo]

Thanks. When you say "main cap" are you referring to the darth vader helmet shaped thing around the seal(as I have pictured in OP)?

 

[ManticSHadow]

Thanks. When you say "main cap" are you referring to the darth vader helmet shaped thing around the seal(as I have pictured in OP)?

Yes sir thats the culprit and the fel pro kit the seal is brown the second cap we used a block of wood to seat it strait then used a coffrr can with the vice to press it the rest of the way. Learned that a hammer rubber or metal just is too iffy

 

[supersilverspeed]

no need to drop pan like he said ^^ however using the oem gasket is best. i have used the felpro one before and it ended up leaking a month later, just to find that it was a defect in the gasket.

 

[juntjoo]

hmm... thanks!

where's the best place to get oem parts? Haven't found this set, or just the gaskets alone in OEM.

 

[juntjoo]

thank god I found this info at rtm:

"NOTE: It should be noted that the factory did not use a gasket at this location on 7-bolt engines, but instead, sealed the connection with RTV sealant. Therefore, an OEM rear main housing gasket does not exist for 7-bolt engines."

I have a 7 bolt.

 

[juntjoo]

gosh dangit! no wonder rtmracing.com charged $45 for shipping. They're in Canada! Didn't notice that til I saw it on the invoice(electronic).

 

[pauleyman]

If I recall the 7 bolt seal isn't behind the housing like it is on the 6 bolt. I don't even think you have to remove the housing at all. You would need something to seat the seal like maybe a big piece of pipe. Removing the housing isn't a big deal either way.

 

[juntjoo]

no, you can see it in the pic I posted above, but the Haynes manual recommended taking it off to avoid 'breaking stuff', in other words, but it also mentioned it wasn't necessary but I just wanted to double check with people in here

 

[ManticSHadow]

When I took the last engine apart, yes it didnt have a gasket but I went ahead used the gasket with the fel pro kit and didnt spare the rtv but those felpro seals do bend easy I had noticed with my first seal thats why I had suggested like the other guy said using a pipe or other to seat properly so time will tell on leaking as if leak are anything new with these engines! One problem at a time

 

[zachakagoat]

I recently did this as well during a clutch swap and did mine a little different. Of ahead and remove the rear case as you can ensure you seat the seal properly. I used an evergreen gasket but they are all similar. Remove the case, clean really well, then throw the rear main seal in the freezer and the case in the oven at 150ish for a bit. The metal will expand slightly. Take it out, spray it with wd40 where the seal sits. Now remove the seal, it will have shrunk slightly as well, spray with wd40, and it should simply "fall in" place without an issues. A flat piece of wood will help seat it as well. Now let the whole piece come to room temp and it is read to install. I placed high temp grease on the seal lip and crank and slid in place with RTV behind. Haven't ha any issues or bent seals doing it this way.

 

[juntjoo]

no oil pan removal?

 

[Pale Horse]

No you do not need to remove the oil pan. You do have to remove the two bolts that thread into the case from the oil pan, however.

 

[nelliott500]

This is great info. I'm doing a clutch swap soon and I'm going to take care of the rear seal while I'm in there. Is it any different on a 6-bolt? I already ordered an OEM seal from JNZ. Do I need to order a gasket kit as well or is it just RTV?

 

[Kyogie12]

Just did this a couple months ago when my engine was pulled out. USE THE OEM GASKET. Extremepsi.com has em for a good price. I used to do felpro or autopart stores seals and i've had them leak.

Also on a 2g there is no paper gasket behind the seal housing (darth vader thing). But on the 1g I believe there is. Someone correct me if i'm wrong. I used Black RTV to seal the housing, and so far no leaks from that side at all!

One last note, the water pump pulley is the exact size to tap the new seal into the housing. Good luck!

 

[nelliott500]

Bah... I wish I had realized I needed a gasket for the rear seal housing. I ordered a rear main steal and throwout bearing from JNZ but didn't add a gasket. I'm trying to source one that has decent shipping charges. ExtremePSI wants $7.50 for handling and then a shipping charge on top of that. Unfortunately, I don't have any Mitsubishi dealerships near me either. The closest one is at least 20 miles. I might as well pay for shipping at that point. I can't even find a part # to search the web.

I do have a Dodge dealership right down the road. I'll give them a call and see if they can get it.

 

[pauleyman]

Also on a 2g there is no paper gasket behind the seal housing (darth vader thing). But on the 1g I believe there is. Someone correct me if i'm wrong. I used Black RTV to seal the housing, and so far no leaks from that side at all!

It isn't a 1g 2g thing. It's 6 bolt 7 bolt thing.

To the posts above about heating and freezing although you could do that is isn't necessary. Neoprene one piece seals are made to be pressed in you just need the proper tool to do it (nice circular pipe of some sort).
The gasket on a 6 bolt is MD183243. The old part number was MD040333.
To anybody reading this get a copy of mitsubishi ASA and you can lookup part numbers easily. Really speeds the process up and ensures you get the correct part (provided you know what you're doing).

 

[nelliott500]

Called the local Dodge dealership and he said part #MD183243 is discontinued. He also said he can't get Diaqueen trans fluid because that's cancelled as well.

Thankfully, I found the rear main seal gasket here for $8.50 shipped so that works for me.

 

[supersilverspeed]

extremepsi.com , i know you said you found the seal , but they can get pretty much any stock or aftermarket replacement gasket. and they ship pretty fast