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Mychel23

10+ Year Contributor
92
1
Jan 18, 2010
South Bend, Indiana
Ok so last weekend i did some maintance on the car.

O2 sensor
Oil Change
Valve cover gasket
Plugs and wires
Master and slave cylinder

I didnt drive it a lot until today and it drove fine for 20 minutes. Then it was like the RPMs would go up when i gave it gas but it barely went anywhere. I looked under the hood and the radiator hose was very swollen and very hot. So i assumed it was a T-Stat and i did that just recently and its still doing the samething after awhile.

Please i need ideas on what it could be.

Thanks in advance
Mychel
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Ok so i think i have an idea after a little reading.

If i let the car cool down and drive it and give it 75% throttle the RPM's go up ( makes power ) but i'll go from 40 mph to barely 50 mph.

I thought it was the T stat at first but i just replaced that eariler today.

Do i have a boost leak? Would a boost leak make my car lose all power after it gets so hot?
 
Anyone around South Bend, IN who can help me with this?

Why would my car act like that when i get into the higher temps?
 
The radiator hose is supposed to be swollen and hot when the car is driven and at operating temperature . The whole system is under pressure . I would do a boost leak test first . Do you have a boost gauge ? what kind of vacuum is it pulling at operating temperature at idle ? Also pull the plugs , see what the plugs look like , and check the gap on the plugs .
 
This may not be helpful, I know thermostats are cheap, but you can simply check a thermostat with hot to (boiling) water on an oven top. If you have a thermometer even better but it will show you that it is at least working.
 
I DO NOT have a boost gauge. Sometimes it seems like i am boosting and other times it seems like i am boosting more that stock. As for plugs and wires i just did all that last week. NGK wires and plugs combo from punishment racing.

As for the thermostat i just got a brand new one. Why would i have to check to see if a brand new one is not working or not?

As for the boost leak i would LOVE to do this. I talked to someone who had a laser but he doesnt know a lot about 2G's. If ANYONE is around SOUTH BEND, IN or FORT WAYNE, IN let me know please. I would like to get with someone/or ppl to learn about these cars and some help..:pray:
 
I work at a parts store, and thermostats are manufactured cheaply, especially the lowest series. It is possible that you could have bought a bad one. Other than that i agree with the boost leak check, and also take your radiator cap into autozone, or another parts store that has a cap tester, and see what pressure it holds.
 
Well, if your RPMs are climbing quickly as they should but your car is not moving then you more than likely have a slipping clutch, not a boost leak.

Who replaced the slave and master cylinder? Are you positive they were installed correctly?

It's kind of difficult to tell from what you are saying, but it sounds to me like this is your issue. You make it sound like your car will rev fine, just not move like it should.

If I'm wrong then explain it better.


Also, a bad thermostat isn't going to cause your car to not move. If your engine temps are doing fine, then you are more than likely ok on that side of things.
 
Anyone around South Bend, IN who can help me with this?

Why would my car act like that when i get into the higher temps?

Is the car overheating? Where is the temp gauge? The hotter a engine gets after operating temperature the worse it will perform.
 
I second the slipping clutch. It seems like it might be worn or slipping, same thing happened on my cousins gs-t he replaced it and now problem solved.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
 
I def. wouldn't rule out a a slipping clutch my friend , i agree with rlacasse1 . Try to see if your car acts up under a load at a higher gear at a lower speed . If the engine revs without the car moving , then you have a slipping clutch .
 
There is so much random information being thrown around here simply because the OP mentioned his radiator hose being hot (and mind you, go drive your car through town, park it, and grab hold of your upper Rad hose.) The only person to even begin hitting on a feasible idea here has been rlacasse.

First of all, when you did the slave/master install, did you make sure to properly adjust the master cylinder adjustment rod? If not and you extended it too far, you may have blocked off the hydrolic's ability to bleed back into the master reservoir. Now, this is just me going out on a limb with this one, but provided that happened, you could actually have pressure on the pressure plate which would not allow the release fork to relieve completely and allow the clutch to slip under higher loads.

When is the last time you've done any clutch upkeep? How's the fluid in your transmission? When have you last checked your trans fluid? How fast are the RPM's rising? Do you smell anything getting hot or burning when the RPM's rise and the vehicle goes nowhere? Are you porting black smoke from your exhaust when this happens? More details will lead to a better answer and not simply assumptions.
 
Ok so i will answer everything that was just asked by XiKeiyaZI. My friend who works at a Nissian dealership put in my master and slave. And what you said is exactly right. When i rev it at any gear the RPMs climb up but the car barely goes. And when i do rev it smells like something is burning.

As for the fluids i have only had the car for 2 weeks or so and have not come to change it out yet. I was TOLD there is a F2 clutch in there.

Also no smoke comes out of this exhaust. Hope this helps
 
You, sir, have a clutch engagement issue. You now have a list of things to check ranging from Clutch pedal Engagement and Disengagement height, fluid levels, master cylinder rod adjustment, fluid pressure, and transmission fluid condition.

Drain the fluid in the transmission. It's easy, cheap, and needs to be done anyway. Let us know how it looks, if there are metal shavings, anything. Once you've done this (As this could destroy the transmission and should be priority) then we'll move on to how your hydrolic system may be malfunctioning.
 
You, sir, have a clutch engagement issue. You now have a list of things to check ranging from Clutch pedal Engagement and Disengagement height, fluid levels, master cylinder rod adjustment, fluid pressure, and transmission fluid condition.

Drain the fluid in the transmission. It's easy, cheap, and needs to be done anyway. Let us know how it looks, if there are metal shavings, anything. Once you've done this (As this could destroy the transmission and should be priority) then we'll move on to how your hydrolic system may be malfunctioning.

Can you explain the master cylinder rod adjustment so i can explain it to my friend who did it. Same with the height of the pedal? Not familiar with those two but i will do the fluid right away.
 
You definately have a slipping clutch.


Although I probably wouldn't bother with the trans fluid like KEIYA suggests, unless you really want peace of mind. But it won't help your slipping clutch.


I would go after checking if everything was installed correctly, if the master cylinder rod is adjusted properly, and lastly if your clutch is going. I doubt it though because this just started when the slave and master were replaced.

Basically do everything KEIYA suggested in the first paragraph of his last post. Except trans fluid, I would let that slide.

Can you explain the master cylinder rod adjustment so i can explain it to my friend who did it. Same with the height of the pedal? Not familiar with those two but i will do the fluid right away.

There is a rod that goes from your clutch pedal to the master cylinder. It has to be adjusted correctly or you will have all kinds of issues with your clutch engagement.

If you search for it you will be able to find some good threads on how to adjust it. Also check out VFAQ.com, they should have a good write up. Also, either Jacks Trans or Shep Trans has good videos on how to do it.


Have fun :thumb:
 
got it. I will start tomorrow morning. Can anyone answer my question above?? Or if someone is close to me and would like to teach me that would be even better :D
 
The videos on sheps or jacks website will be the most helpful. It's like having a person there. They explain it very well.
 
You definately have a slipping clutch.


Although I probably wouldn't bother with the trans fluid like KEIYA suggests, unless you really want peace of mind. But it won't help your slipping clutch.


I would go after checking if everything was installed correctly, if the master cylinder rod is adjusted properly, and lastly if your clutch is going. I doubt it though because this just started when the slave and master were replaced.

Basically do everything KEIYA suggested in the first paragraph of his last post. Except trans fluid, I would let that slide.

Hey now! Capitalizing my name looks negative. :p

The reason I suggest the fluid change is due to the obvious lack of knowledge as to when it was serviced. I would certainly suggest this be done in order to avoid any further occurring issues or those which might appear after this issue is resolve. We don't suggest changing the oil pan without changing the oil/filter now, do we? If he's going to me servicing anything to do with the trans, he may as well do a trans fluid check/change to ensure it is done.
 
In all honesty, I kind of thought abou that as well, but I figured his fluid was never messed with.

Oh, and I capitalize names because I'm to retarded to figure out how to make something bold unless I have clicked the quote button. LOL. I'm so computer illiterate.
 
In all honesty, I kind of thought abou that as well, but I figured his fluid was never messed with.

Oh, and I capitalize names because I'm to retarded to figure out how to make something bold unless I have clicked the quote button. LOL. I'm so computer illiterate.

Highlight what you want to bold and hit CTRL + B

:p
 
Oh, and it just does it with out screwing anything up. Ok let me try this out. Hot damn! It works, That's freakin sweet.
 
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