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Pushing coolant out the overflow bottle... Blown Head gasket

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staztrx250

10+ Year Contributor
182
1
Mar 29, 2010
Green Bay, Wisconsin
I just was to run this by everyone and see what the thoughts are on it. I'm pushing coolant out the overflow bottle not under load but right after and I'm getting air back in the system. It sounds like a head-gasket/ possible warped head correct? I pretty much tried everything else rad cap and what not. I just wanna make sure I'm not jumping to conclusions before I pull the head off and get it resurfaced.

edit...

there are not other symptoms ie smoke ect. and I have arp with cometic head gasket.
 
I just went through this last month. Tried thermoatat and new cap and still the same. Coolant was spitting out my jmf coolant can. You can do a leakdown test and it should show up. Mine blew between cylinders 2&3.
 
I did for safe measure. They had to take out the intake valves so they wouldn't cut them. Since they were out they replaced the valve stem seals. Total cost was $160. Then I used ARP studs and a felpro composite gasket with copper spray.
 
I would go with an OEM composite gasket unless you plan on boosting 30 psi plus. The composite gaskets and studs are good to 550- 600 HP proven. In the end you will have a better sealing head with the composite gasket.
 
mine is/was a brand new composite gasket with 8000 miles at 25 psi on it and I just stepped up to a holset... So if I'm gonna do it I'm gonna go over board this time.

Sent from my Milestone X using Tapatalk
 
Get L19 studs if your going to go overboard. from what I have read the studs are more important than the gasket.

my goal is 450 HP with an hx35 so I went with the composite. I didn't want to worry about an mls not sealing.
 
Get L19 studs if your going to go overboard. from what I have read the studs are more important than the gasket.

Very true. If you can afford it I would do the same. MAP has some real nice H11 head studs they had made for the 6 bolt or if your on a 7 bolt its a no brainer to go with the higher end studs.

Personally I would try the MAP studs with the composite before going to the MLS.
 
Curious as to why you'd think that.

I'm a "me too" in the blown HG department with the symptoms. I'm also a "me too" in a good stud investment with a sprayed composite.
 
I just went through this, it is indeed a blown head gasket. A leak down test will confirm it for sure. I you don't have access to a leak down tester do a block test. You can rent the tester from autozone for like $8 I think. You can also let the car idle withthe radiator cap off and watch for bubbles. Mine was horrible I'll post a pic when I get back to the house.
 
Not that it happens on these cars, but while you have the cylinder head off you may want to row the pistons down to BDC and check for hairline cracks in the cylinder liner area of the block as well.......Just to make sure you don't have some freak issue where it gets over looked, and you put a bunch of work into it only to find out the issue still exists......I've seen it only once.....but the experiance will be forever burned into my memory as to the amount of time wasted, when it would've been found just by spinning the motor off TDC #1......(I have a habit of setting things to TDC#1 when I dis-assemble engines) The symptoms are the same as an engine with a blown HG,so it's fairly easy to overlook if not doing a leak down test......
Just my thoughts.....
 
Idk just trying to rule everything out. I'm just gonna pull the head out I can have it decked for 20 bucks. I'm going with the just because thats what I normally use.

Sent from my Milestone X using Tapatalk
 
I had coolant being pushed out my over flow and i re-torqued the head studs and it fixed the problem completely never got hot or anything so if your lucky and the gasket isnt blown yet that might fix it.
 
To OP:
I've also had the same problem with the stock head gasket at 85k. I changed it to a cometic multi layer gasket and helped a little. When it get's really hot or in boost alot, it might push coolant to the flow tank. Doesn't really fix the problem though.
 
honestly if your planning on goin MLS...pull the whole motor and get both the head and block decked...otherwise you have a really good chance of not sealing
 
dam so reading all this here it seems mine is giving out to. mine it over heats on hot ass heat live in el paso were right now its over 95 everyday but before i didnt have a a/c fan so my car would over heat fast and boil up the coolant and u could hear it from the resivor tank and it would spill it out from there too. i replace the thermostat and cap and help a lil but still got hot. then place two slim fans one direct and the other normal so it helps good still heats up but no boiling and has not spill out wht should i do?
 
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