Pulling the head myself on my 1G..some questions

[4gfun]

Well I did some searching here and other places.

I would like this to be my official thread for this for as long as it takes me to get around to this:

My first questions after reading are as follows:

1) Do I really need to have the car on all 4 jackstands to do this? Do I need to jack the car up at all?

2) What fluids need to be drained?

3) Must I drain the fluids before I get started?

4) Does the timing belts and the other belts such as balance belts need to come off first?

5) Which service manual should I have handy to remove the head (if any)?

6) Which bolts have to be removed correctly to avoid warping the head?

Thanks for any answers to the above questions!!

 

[gpz750]

1.You can do it on the ground, but it will be easier with the front on stands.
2. Need to drain the coolant, you'll need to change the oil when you get it together also
3. Less messy if you drain the coolant first
4.Timing belt will have to come off
5. Depends on your exp., but at least a haynes or the like to have the torque specs to go back together
6. Take the head bolts loose in the reverse of the torque sequence, this will be in the book

 

[4gfun]

1.You can do it on the ground, but it will be easier with the front on stands.
2. Need to drain the coolant, you'll need to change the oil when you get it together also
3. Less messy if you drain the coolant first
4.Timing belt will have to come off
5. Depends on your exp., but at least a haynes or the like to have the torque specs to go back together
6. Take the head bolts loose in the reverse of the torque sequence, this will be in the book

Very clear...

So:

1) Do I need to drain the oil 2x?

2) I know Its an involved job to get the timing belt on, but is it hard to remove it, and do I need to excercise care of any sort when removing it?

3) What is required to remove the cams if I want to inspect them? Do I need to use any care to mark anything or avoid dropping them if I want to inspect them?

Thanks!

 

[1992awdlaser]

Well I did some searching here and other places.

I would like this to be my official thread for this for as long as it takes me to get around to this:

My first questions after reading are as follows:

1) Do I really need to have the car on all 4 jackstands to do this? Do I need to jack the car up at all?

2) What fluids need to be drained?

3) Must I drain the fluids before I get started?

4) Does the timing belts and the other belts such as balance belts need to come off first?

5) Which service manual should I have handy to remove the head (if any)?

6) Which bolts have to be removed correctly to avoid warping the head?

Thanks for any answers to the above questions!!

1. You need the front jacked up to get the timing belt off and drain the fluids.

2.Oil and coolant need to be drained since both of these run threw the head.

3. Yes or you will get them in the cylinders and all over the place.

4. Them timing belt has to come off.

5. A Haynes or Chiltons manual will be fine. Somebody that knows what they are doing would be better.

6. The bolts should be taken off the head in the order of the following diagram. They should be installed opposite of the diagram.

4 6 9 7 1

2 8 10 5 3

Front of car.

 

[gpz750]

I would wait and change the oil when you get it back together, but before you fire it. You will most likely get some water running into the oil pan. Make sure you dry all the water thats in the cylinders after you take the head off. You have to be pretty careful not to damage any of the valves, so It's probably better off to remove the camshafts. Not sure about marking the cams, on the 2g they are different so no worries for me. If this is your first adventure you may want to pick up a manual and read through the procedure first.
Hope this helps

 

[snowborder714]

3) What is required to remove the cams if I want to inspect them? Do I need to use any care to mark anything or avoid dropping them if I want to inspect them?

One thing to remember is to keep the cam caps in order. Also, make sure the cam caps stay with the head they came from. Don't try to mix and match them, or use ones from a different head.

 

[4gfun]

Thanks so far!!

 

[4gfun]

Ok, some more questions:

1) Do I have to mark which roller rockers came off which cam or does it matter?

2) How do I remove the cams? Do I have to get the timing belt off to get the cams out? I took all the cam caps off, and I noticed that there is a bolt that holds the cam to the sprocket. The bolts won't move easily even with a breaker bar, and I notice that if I push counterclockwise too hard, all I am doing is moving the cam gears. Was I supposed to remove this bolt with the cam caps off or in place? Can I just cut the timing belt and take the cam off with the sprocket?

I did a search on this one and got this...

"Break loose the 17mm cam gear bolts. They can be very tight. You will end up using a large adjustable wrench on the cam to hold it and a 17mm socket on a breaker bar on the nut. Often a large pipe needs to be put on the adjustable wrench to get more leverage. There are times when you swear you will snap the cam they are so tight. Have not snapped one yet but when they finally break loose...makes quite a noise. For now, just break the nuts loose, do not remove them."

3) Any thoughts on how to store the cams to keep them safe?

Thanks for your thoughts...

 

[1992awdlaser]

Ok, some more questions:

1) Do I have to mark which roller rockers came off which cam or does it matter?

2) How do I remove the cams? Do I have to get the timing belt off to get the cams out? I took all the cam caps off, and I noticed that there is a bolt that holds the cam to the sprocket. The bolts won't move easily even with a breaker bar, and I notice that if I push counterclockwise too hard, all I am doing is moving the cam gears. Was I supposed to remove this bolt with the cam caps off or in place? Can I just cut the timing belt and take the cam off with the sprocket?

I did a search on this one and got this...

"Break loose the 17mm cam gear bolts. They can be very tight. You will end up using a large adjustable wrench on the cam to hold it and a 17mm socket on a breaker bar on the nut. Often a large pipe needs to be put on the adjustable wrench to get more leverage. There are times when you swear you will snap the cam they are so tight. Have not snapped one yet but when they finally break loose...makes quite a noise. For now, just break the nuts loose, do not remove them."

3) Any thoughts on how to store the cams to keep them safe?

Thanks for your thoughts...

1. No, it does not matter

2.Yes the timing belt has to come off to get the cams out. The bolt is best removed with an impact gun. If you don't have an impact gun have somebody hold the cam steady with a 7/8" wrench while you loosen the bolt. There is a spot on the cam for the wrench. If you are not replacing the cams there is no reason to remove the cam gears though. Yes you can cut the timing belt if you want to do it that way.

3. Put them in zip lock bags. Make sure you put them back on in the exact spot they came from. If you mix them up you cams can sieze and you could end up needing a new head and cams at the minimum.

 

[johnsonroda27]

One thing to remember is to keep the cam caps in order. Also, make sure the cam caps stay with the head they came from. Don't try to mix and match them, or use ones from a different head.

agreed .. you can never be too careful.. get little baggies and a sharpie .. will save you alot of headaches when its time to put it back together..

 

[NB4G63T]

Read the timing belt procedure a couple times as belt tension is a very crucial step that has to be correct. Have the proper tools to complete the job, Asks lots of questions and do lots of research and you should be good, use common sense. Good luck

 

[4gfun]

So far so good...thanks so far!

Having some trouble removing the sprocket from the exhaust cam sprocket.

Was able to get away with it on the intake side!

This is fun

 

[NB4G63T]

Why are you removing the cam sproket? Or are you dissasembling the head. There is flats on the cams where an adjustable wrench would work to hold them.

 

[6 bolt dreams]

you dont need to remove the sprokets unless your changing them. another good thing to do is mark all hoses and wires that you take off when i did mine i use tap and the letter system a to b to b and so on and thoughs little baggies can save your cars life when you put it back together

 

[tkelly27]

Read the VFAQ's (just google VFAQ), and get a hold of the FSM, it's a lot better than any others. I generally keep the cam gears attatched to the cams so they don't get mixed up.

Here are some things I've found while doing HG and head swaps. Never trust that the metal thing that indicates TDC has been set correctly. Set the #1 piston to TDC and then check it. Also make sure the crank sprocket is on the keyway. PM me if you want the story : D

ALWAYS replace the hydraulic tensioner. Always, even if you've just done it, even if you don't think you need it. Do it.

I'm sure I'll think of more later on.

 

[4gfun]

So far so good...thanks!

I am removing the cam sprokets so I can see what the stamping at the end of the cam is.
Previous owner claims bigger cams than stock. I want to see for myself.

Not to sidetrack, but so far not that encouraging:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...am-caps-marked-l-r-not-i-e.html#post151453970

 

[4gfun]

Update, got the exhaust cam off by putting it back in the head then tightening the cam caps and holding one side with an adjustable wrench and the other with a huge breaker bar.

Draining the coolant right now. Leaving the oil until the last possible minute.

 

[nefarious]

An impact with a 17mm socket has worked well for me to remove the cam gears.

The guys above have posted good advice. Be sure to label everything when you remove it and separate all the parts in baggies or bins if at all possible. It will make life much easier when you go to re-assemble everything.

 

[4gfun]

Thank you for your thoughts so far!

Alright, I am Mr. Slowsky,

I have the below procedure below from this website. I am going to use it as a reference along with my Haynes Manual.

Does anyone have thoughts on the below procedure I have found on this site. (I have simplified it to the best of my ability) or care to amend any of it? I have put stars *** next to anything that I am afraid of or that I don't understand.

REMOVE battery & it's foundation.

Drain the coolant

Drain oil - Pull filter ***I like the suggestion that you all had about waiting until I have everything together to change the oil. I just wonder if things are going to be messy if I wait until the last minute to do it e.g. will oil pour out all over?***

Pull the radiator (4 easy bolts right on top) & a couple of fan connectors.

Put jack under the oil pan (use a piece of wood to distribute the load) Remove driver's side motor mount. ***I have never pulled an engine mount in my life and I am scared. loool***

Power steering pump - remove & cap line to reservoir & flip pump to firewall with pressure line still connected to pump. ***Ehh???,***

Remove Bolt from Power steering pump bracket to head lifting eye. ***ehhh, For both of these steps, is it ok to just remove the power steering pump as if I was replacing it? I replaced a power steering pump on my last DSM with no issues***

Remove driver's side front tire & the shields behind it for access to lower crankshaft area.

Loosen the bolts on the water pump pulley and the crank pulley. ***Why, is this necessary?***

Loosen the alternator and remove the belt. ***Loosen, or remove?***

Remove Timing belt cover & all it's hidden fasteners

Remove the bolts from all the pulleys on the front case except the rear small pulley that drives the oil pump. ***Why not just loosen and remove...if necessary at all***

Temporarily reinstall battery - tap starter & note rotation of crank pulley nut - place a GOOD 1/2 drive breaker bar inside crank pulley nut & push it against a solid surface (motor mount or chassis member) MAKE SURE YOUR FINGERS ARE CLEAR - have partner tap starter when you are clear - NOTE - I did this without placing bar against a solid surface before tapping starter & the impact from when the starter spun & the bar slapped something solid wrung off a 1/2 breaker bar I'd had for 10 years - it can cut your fingers off - be careful - an alternate method is to use a pipe wrench turned in the CORRECT manner & brace it against the upper motor mount prior to hitting the starter - it will spin the crank pulley nut off very easily - just be careful. ***Sounds scary...if this is indeed required, is there another way***

Remove the 2 bolts at the exhaust flange downpipe downstream of The turbo

Remove the intake hose and

Disconnect the thermostat housing from the head (without disconnecting any hoses or sensors). Disconnect the thermostat housing (with all the hoses attached) by unbolting the three bolts and sliding it off the studs.It's also faster if you unbolt the whole thermostat housing from the head (rather than disconnecting the water hoses and sensors).

Disconnect the CPS, TPS, ISC, IS,

Injectors,

Remove all spark plug wires and disconnect throttle cable and cruise control cables (just snap out of their holders)

Start unplugging the wiring harness that goes across the intake (in square covering) it plugs into the o2 sensor, water neck, injectors, throttle position sensor, idle control motor, closed throttle switch, knock sensor, ac compressor, and ignition coils and igniters (should already be unplugged from step 7)

Remove both fuel lines and fuel feed line from the fuel rail.

Coil and power transistor connections,

Pull vacuum hoses.

Pull the PCV line and the other line from the valve cover.

Remove all the guards and shields from the timing belt area. Unplug all connections into coil pack and ignitor, remove ALL small vacuum lines, its okay to cut them, remove vacuum line going between intake and brake booster don’t cut it and remove fuel return hose (be ready with a rag)

Also remove the brace along the back of the engine block that holds up the intake. If you cant get it off, at least remove the Bolts that are on the INTAKE, if the ones on the block are pulled out, you still will have a bi*** of a time removing the head. It's much easier to get to the couple of bolts on the intake manifold bracket from the passenger side.

Don't take the exhaust manifold off either, just unbolt the turbo (4 bolts) (unbolt just the turbo from the ex-man). Remove the bolts and nut that hold the turbo to the exhaust manifold

Disconnect the coolant line from the firewall to the water neck, disconnect the coolant feed line and return line from the turbo (disconnect the big line fed from the hard coolant crossover pipe at the turbo, disconnect the small line at the rubber hose fed from the water neck, disconnect the coolant to oil cooler line on the water neck, disconnect oil return line from the turbo to the oil pan, but you can probably leave the turbo oil feed line connected to the turbo .

Remove valve cover and then remove the bolts that hold the head on. Make sure you untorque them in small steps and in the opposite order of the torque down procedure. This is best done with a 10MM 1/2inch drive IMPACT SOCKET.

The Hex's in the middle are freeze plugs, they stay in. The head is sealed really well, and is stuck on the gasket.

This SHOULD be everything that holds the head on. Now is the time to do a once over check of everything. Look on all 4 sides of the head for anything that isn’t unhooked and take appropriate unhooking measures.

I started by putting a crowbar thru the exhaustmanifold webs & pulling down - it levered the head loose from gasket stiction quite easily.
I then went from end to end of head & placed wooden blocks under each end until head was almost clear of Turbo Stud.

Then I just layed a fender cover over where the radiator was - leaned over the front & picked the sumbitch up.
It mioght be better on your back if... 2 guys had one end of head each or ... Climb up onto the engine bay, and grab the intake mani and the exhaust mani, and use your legs to lift head already broken loose per above...

Make sure to set the cylinder head on a piece of wood or cardboard or something.

 

[4gfun]

Alright, I am stuck outside on the driver's side engine mount.

I have removed all the bolts to it, then jacked the engine up by the oil pan with a small piece of wood in between.

The bracket will not move.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

 

[4gfun]

Nevermind on the engine mount...I got it off...

I am stuck on the lower timing belt cover.

I know that there are alot of hidden bolts per the manual, but I have no idea how to get to them.

 

[4gfun]

Well I got the head off. It took me about 8.5 hours, with a few hours talking to the neighbor.

I took it nice and slow.

Bottom line is all exhaust valves were bent. All intake valves were fine.

All pistons were "kissed".

Thanks for helping me do this!