2gdanny
15+ Year Contributor
- 625
- 17
- Mar 9, 2007
-
south river,
New Jersey
HEY every one I’m starting this build blog and will continue to update it as I go.
There’s a lot of images that I’m missing from the time I pulled the motor out till now, reason to was my crashing computer.
I work at a restaurant/bar as my full time job; I have been working there for the past 6 years, its great money, hour’s suck.
As I work 5 days a week I have no time for the car and when I do I try to get as much as possible done, this is my first build from ground up, I hope you guys enjoy the progress and any comments/ ideas are welcomed.
CAR-1998 GSX
6bolt 4g63
BLOCK:
Wiseco pistons: 8.3.1
Crower rods:
Arp head and main:
Acl bearings:
Kiggle main:
Micro polished stock crank:
Balance shaft eliminated:
Fluidampr crank pulley with Arp bolt:
The block was hot tanked, torque plate honed, balanced and painted black.
HEAD:
Si standard nitrated valves:
Bronze valve guides:
Revised lifters:
BC springs and retainers:
Hks cam gears:
comp cams:
Port matched:
Hks timing belt:
DRIVE TRAIN:
TRANSMISSION:
New 1-2 Hub/Sleeve
: New 2nd Gear
: New 2nd Gear Double Synchro
: New 1st, 3rd, 4th, 5th, & Reverse Synchros
: New 1-2, 3-4, 5th-Reverse Synchro Springs
: New 1-2, 3-4, 5th-Reverse Synchro Keys
: New Tapered Input Shaft Upper & Lower Bearings
: New Tapered Intermediate Shaft Upper & lower Bearings
: New Half Shaft Seals, Input Shaft Seal, & Output Shaft Seal
: New 1-2 & 3-4 Forks
: New Evo III 3rd & 4th Double Synchros
: New OEM Intermediate Shaft
: New OEM Center Differential Housing
: New OEM Center Differential Lower Bearing
: New Roll Pins
: New End Nuts
: New Select Lever Shoe
: New Neodymium Trash magnet Upgrade
: Modified Oil Guides
: Your transmission will be disassembled, cleaned, and all parts inspected. It will then be reassembled and shimmed to Dogbox Racing Specs.
With spider gears:
Jacks transmission oem rebuilt t-case:
Stock axles:
Stock drive shaft:
Dogbogracing short shifter:
Shifter cable/ shifter mount metal bushings:
Braded clutch line from master to salve:
ELECTRIC:
Boost gauge:
Wideband:
Oil temp:
Dynatek:
Aem ems:
3.5 bar map sensor:
Gm temp sensor:
Battery in trunk w/ 250 fuse:
FUEL:
255HP Wally in tank rewired:
6an braded fuel lines feed + return:
Fuel lab fuel filter:
Aem fuel rail:
1000cc injector
Aeromotive fpr:
INTAKE/COOLING:
Sbr fmi, short rout:
Steve’s rebuilt throttle body:
Magnus intake manifold, with heat barrier:
Fluidyne radiator w/1 12†and 1 10†fan:
Stat housing powder coated red:
Mishimoto thermostat:
Samco radiator hoses:
EXHAUST:
3†Thermal R&D ceramic coated:
4 BOLT o2 housing ceramic coated:
Gt3582r hot side ceramic coated, intake side powder coated red:
Dnp t3 manifold ceramic coated:
Tial 44mm:
BRAKES/SUSPENSSION:
OEM brakes, powder coated red and rebuilt:
Braded brake lines:
Cross slotted rotors:
Hawk brake pads:
Tein ssp coilovers:
Prothane kit:
Rear dif metal bushing:
Sway bars:
Spc front control arms:
Front and back, upper and lower all new control arms, all painted black along with the gas tank cover:
INTERIOR:
Dynomated:
Black carpet:
Bride seats:
Head unit:
New speakers:
So after this long parts list, the fun part comes.
I started with this build 4 years ago, it started out by one day after being on tuners and other forums all night, looking at previews builds; I thought to myself I can do this I think I can do it on my own.
Thinking about this all night I went out in the morning and got a portable car garage.
And it started; first off, I dropped the engine, then started by taking off body parts along with interior, got the car on jack stands and got it as high as possible.
Dropped the front and rear sub frames along with the gas tank and suspension, cleaned the engine bay and under the car, took me around 2 weeks to get all the gunk /paint out.
I prepped the underbody and engine bay for paint, I rubberized the underbody, and painted engine bay pearl white, it wasn’t the best but I have never painted a car before and it was outside, engine bay got some fisheyes and the underbody was wet for a longtime, and all is perfect for my first time.
View attachment 1560
View attachment 1570
View attachment 1571
I pressed out the bushings from the sub frames and took the frames to a local shop for paint, got them when i got them back i pressed the new bushings in, also at the same time I did the prothane kit all around.
After the rubber was dry I had, 99gst _racer weld fittings on my fuel sending unit for the braded 6an lines, (amazing job by him).
View attachment 1572
Fuel tank was cleaned in and out and put back along with the fuel tank cover painted black, new fuel lines from the neck to tank, fuel sending unit and pump was dropped in.
Rear dif cover was powder coated red, was sealed and bolted up to the rear sub frame , with the metal bushings, rear sway bar â€rm in redâ€, all the lower control arms and the new end links. I rebuilt the steering rack, with new tie rods and sway bar installed.
View attachment 1575
View attachment 1576
Ran all the fuel lines under the car and secured them with the cushion braces from summit, the feed goes along the passenger side where the old one did and the return goes on the driver’s side, Bothe lines are along the tow underbody rails, fuel filter was installed as well.
View attachment 1574
Befor I picked up the motor and transmission from dogbox, I had all my brackets and everything that was bolted to the fire wall and engine bay powder coated, anything that wasn’t able to be coated I had it painted by the local shop.
When I had everything back from paint and coated, I installed everything, from abs unit, power steering reservoir, brake reservoir, fpr, vacuum block and cleaned up the wiring harness.
Got the motor home and I started to install
Manifolds, turbo, cooling lines for turbo, oil feed for turbo, water pipe, power steering, and alternator,
Fuel rail, injectors, knock sensor, unorthodox alternator, power steering and water pump pulley.
View attachment 1561
View attachment 1562
View attachment 1563
View attachment 1564
View attachment 1565
View attachment 1566
I had bought the gates racing alternator and power steering belts but I had a really hard time getting them on, I ended up ordering new oem ones, they went on like a glove.
View attachment 1567
View attachment 1568
I bolted the transmission and the engine together, picked it up with a cherry picker, and after 1 hour the motor was in.
View attachment 1573
View attachment 1569
And that’s how the car is now, I will be working on tomorrow I will take more images and as I work on it I will update it. All off this till now as taken 4 years from the car on jacks till the motor being dropped in.
i didnt get much work done this week i had a chance to throw on the calipers and dynomated the inside.
View attachment 1632
View attachment 1633
View attachment 1634
There’s a lot of images that I’m missing from the time I pulled the motor out till now, reason to was my crashing computer.
I work at a restaurant/bar as my full time job; I have been working there for the past 6 years, its great money, hour’s suck.
As I work 5 days a week I have no time for the car and when I do I try to get as much as possible done, this is my first build from ground up, I hope you guys enjoy the progress and any comments/ ideas are welcomed.
CAR-1998 GSX
6bolt 4g63
BLOCK:
Wiseco pistons: 8.3.1
Crower rods:
Arp head and main:
Acl bearings:
Kiggle main:
Micro polished stock crank:
Balance shaft eliminated:
Fluidampr crank pulley with Arp bolt:
The block was hot tanked, torque plate honed, balanced and painted black.
HEAD:
Si standard nitrated valves:
Bronze valve guides:
Revised lifters:
BC springs and retainers:
Hks cam gears:
comp cams:
Port matched:
Hks timing belt:
DRIVE TRAIN:
TRANSMISSION:
New 1-2 Hub/Sleeve
: New 2nd Gear
: New 2nd Gear Double Synchro
: New 1st, 3rd, 4th, 5th, & Reverse Synchros
: New 1-2, 3-4, 5th-Reverse Synchro Springs
: New 1-2, 3-4, 5th-Reverse Synchro Keys
: New Tapered Input Shaft Upper & Lower Bearings
: New Tapered Intermediate Shaft Upper & lower Bearings
: New Half Shaft Seals, Input Shaft Seal, & Output Shaft Seal
: New 1-2 & 3-4 Forks
: New Evo III 3rd & 4th Double Synchros
: New OEM Intermediate Shaft
: New OEM Center Differential Housing
: New OEM Center Differential Lower Bearing
: New Roll Pins
: New End Nuts
: New Select Lever Shoe
: New Neodymium Trash magnet Upgrade
: Modified Oil Guides
: Your transmission will be disassembled, cleaned, and all parts inspected. It will then be reassembled and shimmed to Dogbox Racing Specs.
With spider gears:
Jacks transmission oem rebuilt t-case:
Stock axles:
Stock drive shaft:
Dogbogracing short shifter:
Shifter cable/ shifter mount metal bushings:
Braded clutch line from master to salve:
ELECTRIC:
Boost gauge:
Wideband:
Oil temp:
Dynatek:
Aem ems:
3.5 bar map sensor:
Gm temp sensor:
Battery in trunk w/ 250 fuse:
FUEL:
255HP Wally in tank rewired:
6an braded fuel lines feed + return:
Fuel lab fuel filter:
Aem fuel rail:
1000cc injector
Aeromotive fpr:
INTAKE/COOLING:
Sbr fmi, short rout:
Steve’s rebuilt throttle body:
Magnus intake manifold, with heat barrier:
Fluidyne radiator w/1 12†and 1 10†fan:
Stat housing powder coated red:
Mishimoto thermostat:
Samco radiator hoses:
EXHAUST:
3†Thermal R&D ceramic coated:
4 BOLT o2 housing ceramic coated:
Gt3582r hot side ceramic coated, intake side powder coated red:
Dnp t3 manifold ceramic coated:
Tial 44mm:
BRAKES/SUSPENSSION:
OEM brakes, powder coated red and rebuilt:
Braded brake lines:
Cross slotted rotors:
Hawk brake pads:
Tein ssp coilovers:
Prothane kit:
Rear dif metal bushing:
Sway bars:
Spc front control arms:
Front and back, upper and lower all new control arms, all painted black along with the gas tank cover:
INTERIOR:
Dynomated:
Black carpet:
Bride seats:
Head unit:
New speakers:
So after this long parts list, the fun part comes.
I started with this build 4 years ago, it started out by one day after being on tuners and other forums all night, looking at previews builds; I thought to myself I can do this I think I can do it on my own.
Thinking about this all night I went out in the morning and got a portable car garage.
And it started; first off, I dropped the engine, then started by taking off body parts along with interior, got the car on jack stands and got it as high as possible.
Dropped the front and rear sub frames along with the gas tank and suspension, cleaned the engine bay and under the car, took me around 2 weeks to get all the gunk /paint out.
I prepped the underbody and engine bay for paint, I rubberized the underbody, and painted engine bay pearl white, it wasn’t the best but I have never painted a car before and it was outside, engine bay got some fisheyes and the underbody was wet for a longtime, and all is perfect for my first time.
View attachment 1560
View attachment 1570
View attachment 1571
I pressed out the bushings from the sub frames and took the frames to a local shop for paint, got them when i got them back i pressed the new bushings in, also at the same time I did the prothane kit all around.
After the rubber was dry I had, 99gst _racer weld fittings on my fuel sending unit for the braded 6an lines, (amazing job by him).
View attachment 1572
Fuel tank was cleaned in and out and put back along with the fuel tank cover painted black, new fuel lines from the neck to tank, fuel sending unit and pump was dropped in.
Rear dif cover was powder coated red, was sealed and bolted up to the rear sub frame , with the metal bushings, rear sway bar â€rm in redâ€, all the lower control arms and the new end links. I rebuilt the steering rack, with new tie rods and sway bar installed.
View attachment 1575
View attachment 1576
Ran all the fuel lines under the car and secured them with the cushion braces from summit, the feed goes along the passenger side where the old one did and the return goes on the driver’s side, Bothe lines are along the tow underbody rails, fuel filter was installed as well.
View attachment 1574
Befor I picked up the motor and transmission from dogbox, I had all my brackets and everything that was bolted to the fire wall and engine bay powder coated, anything that wasn’t able to be coated I had it painted by the local shop.
When I had everything back from paint and coated, I installed everything, from abs unit, power steering reservoir, brake reservoir, fpr, vacuum block and cleaned up the wiring harness.
Got the motor home and I started to install
Manifolds, turbo, cooling lines for turbo, oil feed for turbo, water pipe, power steering, and alternator,
Fuel rail, injectors, knock sensor, unorthodox alternator, power steering and water pump pulley.
View attachment 1561
View attachment 1562
View attachment 1563
View attachment 1564
View attachment 1565
View attachment 1566
I had bought the gates racing alternator and power steering belts but I had a really hard time getting them on, I ended up ordering new oem ones, they went on like a glove.
View attachment 1567
View attachment 1568
I bolted the transmission and the engine together, picked it up with a cherry picker, and after 1 hour the motor was in.
View attachment 1573
View attachment 1569
And that’s how the car is now, I will be working on tomorrow I will take more images and as I work on it I will update it. All off this till now as taken 4 years from the car on jacks till the motor being dropped in.
i didnt get much work done this week i had a chance to throw on the calipers and dynomated the inside.
View attachment 1632
View attachment 1633
View attachment 1634

. I cant wait to feel boost again either. And if there is one tip I can give you Riding in your friends boosted dsm does not help the problem.... but hey keep it up.... subscribed
nice job