product review of je pistons and crower camshafts

[TeamORI]

Well im set on buying some internals for my 420a engine..it has just over 100k..maybe 102k. I've decided on je pistons and crower stage one camshafts. I was just wondering what you people thought of these products ( those who have them on their cars) and if I should in fact buy these, or get some other companys products. I also planed on getting a bigger TB and P+P my stock IM, however im not really sure what the actually process of P+P is, so if some could point me in the right directions that would be awsome . I have a general idea, but im still not really sure and I dont wanna screw anything up (measure twice, cut once ), and is this recommeded or am I wasting my time P+P and if not is there anything else I should P+P. Thanks guys

-Jack

 

[bullettdsm]

Reference the thread "port n polish" then ask about P + P
MB

 

[GSGoinFast]

Reference the thread "port n polish" then ask about P + P
MB

BRILLIANT!!!

hey TeamORI, did you ever do that compression test? if your comp numbers arent low, then the only reason to rebuild is to run a big shot of nitrous, to run a turbo, or to just up the compression for a full out all motor monster

what are your plans? if your going turbo your gonna wanna stay at stock compression or go to 8.8:1 if your planning on running a big nitrous shot then go with 10.5:1 and if you want an all motor set up go with 10.5:1 again, or you can try your luck with 12.5:1 but im guarenteeing that you wont get it tuned right. what do you plan to do?

 

[TeamORI]

BRILLIANT!!!

hey TeamORI, did you ever do that compression test? if your comp numbers arent low, then the only reason to rebuild is to run a big shot of nitrous, to run a turbo, or to just up the compression for a full out all motor monster

what are your plans? if your going turbo your gonna wanna stay at stock compression or go to 8.8:1 if your planning on running a big nitrous shot then go with 10.5:1 and if you want an all motor set up go with 10.5:1 again, or you can try your luck with 12.5:1 but im guarenteeing that you wont get it tuned right. what do you plan to do?

I havent had any compression tests done to the car yet due to the fact that the cars at home and im @ college..the reason Im siding more on internals is because i need to replace my timing belt and I need a new head...I figure I should do internals now while the head is off,I'd save money in the long run w/ getting this done now..pluse I'm still not convinced that I can turbo my car for under 1500...2000 max, and I still dont know what kinda of shap the engine is really is in, and I wont know untill I get the head off. If knew for sure that I could go turbo, then I would deff consider it. If anyone has any suggestion or comments please p.m me or post them up...thanks guys

-Jack

 

[selmerguy]

hey i am turboin' at 135 grand. my compression is ok buy my vavle seals suck. going to put in some 50 weight and run 6 psi and see how long it takes to go boom. ( i'm a dumb a$$ though). well i will be turboin' if my mani and dp ever get here. i orderd them 3 weeks ago.

 

[TeamORI]

hey i am turboin' at 135 grand. my compression is ok buy my vavle seals suck. going to put in some 50 weight and run 6 psi and see how long it takes to go boom. ( i'm a dumb a$$ though). well i will be turboin' if my mani and dp ever get here. i orderd them 3 weeks ago.

are u running something like a stock turbo set up..ie no turbo timber..boost controler, fmic, all the gauges, bigger injectors, a piggy back?...or are you getting all that?

-Jack

 

[dr1665]

JE pistons = fine.
Crower 1 cams = fine, but Crower 2 cams = better

Upgrade your valve train with PTC lifters and lash adjusters, pick up some better springs and maybe get a valve job done. I've seen your turbo plans and they are sketchy at best. If you want to take care of things while the head is off, don't just half ass it. Go all the way. Rebuild your block too and get the headwork done. Worry about turbo later on down the road once you really know what you're doing. I guarantee you, you drop $2k into that engine before you turbo and you're going to be a lot more concerned about what you just bolt up to it.

 

[GSGoinFast]

JE pistons = fine.
Crower 1 cams = fine, but Crower 2 cams = better

Upgrade your valve train with PTC lifters and lash adjusters, pick up some better springs and maybe get a valve job done. I've seen your turbo plans and they are sketchy at best. If you want to take care of things while the head is off, don't just half ass it. Go all the way. Rebuild your block too and get the headwork done. Worry about turbo later on down the road once you really know what you're doing. I guarantee you, you drop $2k into that engine before you turbo and you're going to be a lot more concerned about what you just bolt up to it.

Hey DR go into the turbo conversion section and look at the "my turbo kit" thread, hes talking about weisco pistons... set him strait!

 

[dr1665]

Hey DR go into the turbo conversion section and look at the "my turbo kit" thread, hes talking about weisco pistons... set him strait!

! Nah. Already answered one guy's PM topday about Wisecos. I'll just take up the stance that they are a "fine" piston that will be "okay." Just don't count on them holding up to too much abuse. I think I'll stick with my silica-free Venolias, tyvm. They're said to be "premium." I think they start to melt around 900hp...

I mean... it's not like Wisecos cost $400 and JE's cost about $100 more.

 

[GSGoinFast]

! Nah. Already answered one guy's PM topday about Wisecos. I'll just take up the stance that they are a "fine" piston that will be "okay." Just don't count on them holding up to too much abuse. I think I'll stick with my silica-free Venolias, tyvm. They're said to be "premium." I think they start to melt around 900hp...

I mean... it's not like Wisecos cost $400 and JE's cost about $100 more.

your only settleing for 900hp?? im dissapointed in you

 

[750_sport]

je pistons crack,
And!! A comp test will not prove alone you need a rebuild. A leak down test will.

Leak down will tell you if: your intake valves leak, exaust valves leak, Rings are blown and are leaking.

Anything less then 6% and your going to have to look for what is wrong. BEFORE you add mods to the motor!


A comp test just tells you a rough guess to "hey its ok for now"

 

[TeamORI]

je pistons crack,
And!! A comp test will not prove alone you need a rebuild. A leak down test will.

Leak down will tell you if: your intake valves leak, exaust valves leak, Rings are blown and are leaking.

Anything less then 6% and your going to have to look for what is wrong. BEFORE you add mods to the motor!


A comp test just tells you a rough guess to "hey its ok for now"

ok so JE pistons crack...can anyone recommed some good pistons???

-Jack

 

[ninjai_ruken]

It's up to you what you want to do in the end, Remember every motor is different and will react different to the same mods. I have a friend with the same cams as me in his RS and he hates them, He hates them to no end and is getting rid of his....I love mine and have not had a problem with them good luck in what ever brand you decide to use

 

[dr1665]

ok so JE pistons crack...can anyone recommed some good pistons???

-Jack

Just go with the JEs. There is nothing wrong with them. Learn how to tune and you will be just fine with them. Pistons are not a magic bullet that allows you to just half-ass slap some shit on your car and forget about it. You want to play? You have to pay. And that means time and money. If you can't be bothered with monitoring engine conditions or adjusting this and tweaking that on a regular basis, you should just sell it, buy a Honda, and get that H22 swap or whatever.

You're not going to get a definitive answer on which pistons are the best. You're not going to hear a solid answer on which rods to get. Check out the search and see what happens when someone is trying to decide between standard and Total Seal gapless rings. Even more so, just wait until you need to know how to break in the engine. Everyone has an opinion as to what is best and which brand to buy. In the end, it's all a factor of your budget and goals. More important than the brand of the piston (although it's fairly important) is the the company you buy them from. Make sure they're reputable and will follow through on your order.

I'll tell you what. Just go over to www.exileracing.com and tell them DR1665 said they could help you pick out internals. They know who I am. They will shoot you straight and help calm any doubts you might have. Their 2GNT guys have been around the block more than a few times and they have good prices. You will be advised what you need to buy, not what they need to sell.

Later.

 

[750_sport]

Ah As a long time AMA engine builder I do not toss my motors togther. B.T.W. J.E. Pistons were cracking at the exaust valve relief. This is a known problem with certain apps. I do not know if they have fixed this. I do not want to learn my lesson that way. I have torn down 20+ motors that have had this failure.

The best thing you can do. I pick up a book and read it. There is one called Supercharged. I'll get the author's info tonight. He gets into the basics of piston design and apps.

Then you can be better informed when you make a choice.

All in all there is about 25 differant piston types out there.

You need to set a goal. Plan out your parts, And stick with it till the end. Anytime you change that goal halfway you will end up in headaches.