Problems

[FyxxterZC]

92 tsi awd, stock injectors, stock ic, stock ecu, 255lph fuel pump, stock head/cams/bottom end, bov is not vented. Car falls flat on its' face and will NOT build boost, or moreover like the bov is vented. Any recommendations on safc settings? Right now it's on the stock fpr I have a logger but I didn't log it at idle/part throttle yet. It looks like a diesel at the exhaust outlet black smoke as can be. I'm going to set the low settings to -18 across the board, should I set the high settings to the plus or minus side? Could this be a timing problem? It's a friends car and this is my first time with an s-afc (yes I"ve read the safc initial settings). Was on zeros across both boards and as I took away fuel it seemed to idle a little better. Going to get started again on it tomorrow any advice would be very much appreciated. PS. B16g turbo, sorry forgot to mention that.

 

[1993eclipseGS]

Are you sure you didnt blow off an intercooler hose?

 

[FyxxterZC]

There probably are atleast two spots where I could get leaks. I thought this could be a problem too but I didn't know to what extent it's leaking. Does autozone have a reducer for the uicp to ic? Anybody know the part number. I believe it's a buschur uicp. It's not my car but I"m trying to sort it out. Also the j pipe is probably leaking I don't know for sure. This might be a stupid question but do you guys tune at idle with your loggers? If so what do you tune off of, o2 voltage/knock?

 

[1993eclipseGS]

Does the car stutter as soon as it tries to go into boost? And then it has no power at all? Thats what it would be like if you blew an intercooler pipe off of one of the connections, Definatly check all the piping first. Also, You can make a boost leak tester to pressurize the sytem. About the reduce, If you have a Lowes or home depot, They have everything in the plumbing section, All types of reducers and everything.

 

[draxus83]

we thought thats the reason it wont build boost... but off throttle the car will idle like complet shit and when you rev then drop throttle it cuts off ?? is this because the stock fpr is being over run by the w/b 255 ?? i have the aeromotive fpr just waiting for the instal kit and steel braded fuel lines to get hear .. will this fix that problom ?

 

[1993eclipseGS]

I'm not exactly sure now, Maybe someone else can give some advice, My advice would be to check all the intercooler piping since when an intercooler pipe blows off, you cant build boost and it will stutter horribly.

 

[chuckdog_5]

check and double check your hoses, vacum lines etc...
If all that is still fine, maybe your cracked something on your turbo, i had a cracked wastegate housing and i could only build 10lbs, but in your case i dont know........good luck

 

[draxus83]

well we replaced the reducer boot fixed and all possible boost leaks and it started to build boost good.. but hears the thing we are getting a huge lagg/bog/fuel cut right between 4500-4800 rpms we loged an loged all damn day we riched it up on the s-afc but still get a really bad fuel cut at and above 15-16 psi ???? is the maf being over run ??? and when the car sits at idle for say about a min it will start to smoke a whitsh/ blue but only after idle it wont do it if we driving or under boost ??? any ideas on this problom ?? other then this we got her running good thanx alot todd (FyxxterZC) << i give him my thanx he helped me out alot

ps we hit 26 psi for about 2 secs not good for it but it was fun

 

[FyxxterZC]

The lag's probably from my tuning, I can't tune for shit. If you want to lean the 4-7k ranges out on your safc it should spool faster. I swear your over running that stock maf though, fuel cut just messes with my head. Makes me think it's a fuel problem and not an flow problem with the maf itself being over run. If you can find away to get rid of that fuel cut I think I could tune it a lot better. Getcha some 550's, a keydriver chip/socketed or maft translator or both and you should be able to see 18-20 psi with little knock. Putting that afpr on there should help idle tuning. Also to anyone else on the board that's using an s-afc. I know there's a sticky on it but if you could put up a general setup note it would be great. I've looked over rre's tech tips and setup tips and they have helped massively. Tuning at idle is hard to understand for me, as is tuning with it period. I got the general idea that hi is a global kind of based tune and lo is a more finite tune. Most of these other guys should be able to tell you what's going on with it fuel cutting. I can only guess at it. Got a question for you guys tuning too. Am I right in assuming that (-) is taking fuel away and (+) is adding fuel or is it adding/taking away air? Stupid question but I see guys on here talking about they're hitting fuel cut and acting like (-) is adding fuel. If it is then I'll have to retrain my brain on how to tune with the thing. The car wasn't getting any knock either until the high 4 low 5k range then it steadily climbed. I richened (+) it up in the 5-7k range by a really good margin. Also we were switching boost levels often. I wanted to get the car to hit 20 psi and be smooth at it. High goal for my first time tuning I know so please don't lecture me.

PS. It was my first time tuning with it, actually first time putting my logger to good use too. If any of you guys know what's going on with it boosting like that or if my info is wrong please speak up.

 

[draxus83]

well todd i cant belive these wiseman or for that matter mods aint spoke up yet its all good thoe but we really could or would like an exsplanation for this problom

 

[FyxxterZC]

Sorry, found this post in tech reviews........good post btw. Still need to read over it a few times to completely understand it. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105569
also this one helped me to understand even though it's for a non turbo
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76226&highlight=low+high+afc+setting+differences

 

[draxus83]

yeah i have read the first one befor but did me little good i need to do things to understand them

 

[92awddsm]

On 1g's, check the ecu for leaking caps before you try to tune. If they are good, try an afpr with the 255 pump. Now, tune idle with a logger. Try to get low fuel trims close to 100% If it is over 100%, richen it up(+on the afc, low throttle) 1% on the afc equals roughly 3% on the fuel trims(ex 112 low ft would need approx +3-4% on the afc) Mid fuel trims can be tuned by knock. Ease into the throttle and watch knock. If you get any at all, richen the afc up 1-2% in the rpm range that you have the knock. This should still be in the low th settings on the afc. WOT should be tuned by knock alone. You want it to be as lean as possible for best power but you should keep knock down to less than 5 counts. You will never get a fine tune until you get the afpr on there but this should get you close.

As far as fuel cut, remove the lower honey comb from the stock 1g mas. This will give you enough unmetered air to move fuel cut to 18+ psi. I wouldnt recommend that on the stock injectors but if you need that much, you can compensate by raising the fuel pressure which also brings us back to the afpr.

 

[FyxxterZC]

Thank you very much, very helpful info indeed.