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Problem starting.. Starter/Ignition Switch

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crazyquik22023

10+ Year Contributor
641
6
Sep 14, 2008
Akron, Ohio
I am having a problem starting my car. Sometimes it won't start and youll hear a single click coming from the engine bay. Battery is fully charged, newer starter, starter signal wire is connected good, all ground and battery connections are good. After a few times of me trying to start it and it clicking it will fire right up and run fine. The only problem i could think it would be is either a bad starter or an ignition switch? what do you guys think? BTW the starter is less than 5 months old, i replaced it 5 months ago with a starter from autozone.
 
You have a bad starter solenoid. I just ran into this problem. Dont buy staters from autozone There known to go bad very quick. Goto advance auto parts alot more reliable.
 
You have a bad starter solenoid. I just ran into this problem. Dont buy staters from autozone There known to go bad very quick. Goto advance auto parts alot more reliable.

Advance starters are no more reliable than Napa or autozone starters.

Check the solenoid terminal on the WIRE. They tend to corrode and cause issues similiar to this.
 
I'm having the exact same problem, but my car won't start at all. I've done the steps below and I'm pretty sure it is my cas, waiting for a new cas to test again.


Spark gets generated on a 2g using the following (note: CAS and CPS may have slightly different voltage ranges on pin 2 for 95-96 dsm but they will not be 0):

- For a quick go/no go test of all ignition components before the coil: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/newbie-forum/prob...#post151297987

- Coil test: Ignition problem - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/268167-ignition-problem.html?posted=1#post151257229

- PT: Power transistor test: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-electrical-wiring/229419-how-test-power-transistors.html

- CAS: Cam angle sensor test: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...-suggestions-post151265251.html#post151265251

- CPS: Crank position sensor test: same as cam angle sensor except pin 2 is blue/white and it's crank voltage is 0.4-4.0V while idling is 1.5-2.5V

- ECU test: Check if caps inside are leaking or rotten egg smell and/or swap with known good one. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...585-troubleshooting-fried-ecu-components.html

- Spark plugs: Appearance: Spark Plug Diagnosis, FAQ: Spark Plug FAQ. Test by removing each plug, reattaching the spark plug cable, then (wearing rubber gloves and insulated shoes (don't stand in water)) hold the plug's outer electrode (or threads) against the head (ground) while cranking engine. Make sure there is spark and it's not weak. When done also check plug for cracked insulation or damaged electrodes.

- Spark plug cable test: Measure resistance of each end to end while bending them all over (to check for an open). Resistance should be 22k ohms max on a 2g (11k on 1g). If engine idles, wearing rubber gloves and insulated shoes (don't stand in water) you may first want to disconnect, one at a time, each of the spark plug cables while engine is idling. If the engine performance does not change, check that cables resistance and the spark plug itself. You can also check for spark jumping to ground from cable or coil by watching them in the dark while racing engine.

- Filter capacitor: The filter capacitor sharpens the coil's input pulse and reduces input pulse ringing both of which enhance the coil's output. It also reduces electrical static generated by the coil and alternator on the +12v line. It rarely fails but has been known to happen. Sometimes it intermittently fails (partially shorts) with temperature which can severely affect spark. Other times it just gets old and loses it's capacitance which usually shows up as increased static in the radio. The filter capacitor is a small cylindrical tin can bolted to intake manifold driver's side with 1 wire coming out of it. You can check it by just unplugging it and noticing effect (especially if it is failing with temperature).

compiled by luv2rallye
 
Parts from autozone are garbage. Iv never had a problem from advace auto parts or napa.
 
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