Power Steering pump sensor q's

[Flybiyou]

The wire that plugs in the power steering pump was dangling around today when I poped my hood it looks as if the connecter piece broke off. What does that wire do and is it ok to drive the car around with it not hooked up?

Thank
AJ

 

[steve]

It tells the ECU that the PS pump is putting a load on the engine and compensate by opening up the ISC a bit. It won't damage anything disconnected but your engine speed may drop a bit when your turning the wheels.

Steve

 

[Flybiyou]

Is there anyway I can fix this or do I have to buy a new pump.

 

[steve]

Which part is broken. You prior post made it sound like the connector on the wire was broken not the pump post that it goes over.

Steve

 

[psychlow]

If it's the connector stud that's actually part of the pump, you could try soldering the stud back on if you have a powerful soldering gun (125+W maybe?)

If it's just the wire's connector that popped off, you could strip the wire and try soldering that to the stud.

 

[ZachM31]

well, as the title says, i have questions about the p/s pump sensor (if it even is a sensor) anyways, me being a dumbass, broke the porcelain piece that the wire end is integrated too, so i got it back in there, and siliconed it (i didnt use high temp silicone) so it dissintegrate on me, and the wire was just hanging there, anyways, is anything going to be bad if it isn't hooked up? i really didnt notice anything, so i don't know if anything bad is going to come from it.. i guess i could go to a dealership and get raped or something, unless someone has something that they could sell to me? maybe i should just take my p/s off? who knows....

 

[TotalEclipse112]

Don't really know about the sensor on the PS pump but I can tell you this. Leave the power steering alone. If you eleminate the pump, and then block off the lines, your sterring will be wrong. The only way to correctly remove the PS is to remove the pump and all the associated PS lines, remove the steering rack and replace it with a higher ratio manual rack, and then replace all the parts associated with the new manual rack, then go and get an alignment. Honestly the PS only takes away about 5 hp, so unless you want a work out ever time your in a parking lot and trying to park leave it alone. Just my .02 cents.

 

[Jason84]

uhh i removed my ps pump and lines and just looped it.. and mines just a bit harder to turn but fine..

im doing a manual rack conversion but i still drive it the way it is alot...

 

[TotalEclipse112]

How to explaine this, ok and instructior I had said it best "Manufatuers don't put parts on cars, intended to work together, for you to play mix and match removal with and expect things to be fine." I know what you are sayng I did the exact same thing to my 92 Talon before I knew any better, but the PS rack has a much lower gearing raito to accomidate the fact that is is hydraulicly assisted, so it requires less effort by the driver to turn the wheels. Now if the same gearing that was in the manual rack was in the PS rack, you wouldn't be able to drive since the slightest input from the steering wheel would put you into a gaurd rail. Now if you are driving with a PS rack and no PS its a bear to turn the wheels, like I said I have been there, but you'll see once you put a manual rack in the car it will be a lot easier to turn. Maybe what I am trying to say is I like some of creature comforts that come in cars today, not all but some. But I don't see the logic to saving like 5 hp, on a turbo car when it is so easy to make it back just go 1/2 psi higher and it will be compensated for. But like I said thats just my .02 cents and the reasoning behind why I'm saying it.

 

[ZachM31]

yeah i really wasn't planning on taking it off, just saying that in a joking way... maybe i will just re-silcone it back together and see where that gets me.. i havent noticed anything from it, so who knows....

 

[heppm01]

The following refers to a 1G, and I don't know if the same holds for a 2G, but on a 1G that wire signals the ECU when the steering wheel is turned (power steering activated), and if the car is at idle it will bump the idle speed up slightly to compensate for the extra draw on the engine. Mine was disconnected for quite a while with no ill effects, but you will probably notice your idle dipping when you turn the wheel.

M

 

[Defiant]

How to explaine this, ok and instructior I had said it best "Manufatuers don't put parts on cars, intended to work together, for you to play mix and match removal with and expect things to be fine." I know what you are sayng I did the exact same thing to my 92 Talon before I knew any better, but the PS rack has a much lower gearing raito to accomidate the fact that is is hydraulicly assisted, so it requires less effort by the driver to turn the wheels. Now if the same gearing that was in the manual rack was in the PS rack, you wouldn't be able to drive since the slightest input from the steering wheel would put you into a gaurd rail. Now if you are driving with a PS rack and no PS its a bear to turn the wheels, like I said I have been there, but you'll see once you put a manual rack in the car it will be a lot easier to turn. Maybe what I am trying to say is I like some of creature comforts that come in cars today, not all but some. But I don't see the logic to saving like 5 hp, on a turbo car when it is so easy to make it back just go 1/2 psi higher and it will be compensated for. But like I said thats just my .02 cents and the reasoning behind why I'm saying it.

Quite the turn of phrases. Centered like that, it's amazing the lathe didn't wipe the tool rest off the ways.
Manual steering has a lower ratio to compensate for not being assisted. You have to turn the steering wheel further for a given amount of tire deflection. Oddly, power-assisted cars seldom careen out of control on the motorway, despite being able to piroette with the push of a pinky. Or, at least in the hands of most drivers.

 

[Defiant]

yeah i really wasn't planning on taking it off, just saying that in a joking way... maybe i will just re-silcone it back together and see where that gets me.. i havent noticed anything from it, so who knows....

Um... it's an electrical switch.
If you get it to work with silicone adhesive, by all means come running back in here to tell us.

 

[TotalEclipse112]

The following refers to a 1G, and I don't know if the same holds for a 2G, but on a 1G that wire signals the ECU when the steering wheel is turned (power steering activated), and if the car is at idle it will bump the idle speed up slightly to compensate for the extra draw on the engine. Mine was disconnected for quite a while with no ill effects, but you will probably notice your idle dipping when you turn the wheel.

Thats what it was completly forgot about that thing should have know better. Its the idle compenstion switch, when the steering wheel is all the way to the left or right the pump is creating more of a load due to the hydraulic output of the pump. It sends a signal to the ecm to bump up the idle. Siliconing the thing back together, I don't thing that is going to work.

 

[boosted_91_tsi]

Kinda bringing back a old thread but it coincides with a problem i am having. i was having issues with the rpms dropping and a suggestion was made to check this wire. it was connected to the pump but about 1 1/2 inches down the wire is half frayed. I am guessing this could be part of the problem. I am wanting to just cut the connector and the bad section of wire out and splice in a new one with the connector but i am not all that knowledgeable when it comes to electrical work. I can splice in the wire but do i need to have a specific gage of wire to keep it from over heating. If so I haven't got the slightest clue where to find the info. if anyone could help me out, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanx.

 

[steve]

There isn't any sigificant current on this wire so just about anything you have handy should work. 18 to 20 gauge wire should be fine.

Steve

 

[DSMcrazy3]

There isn't any sigificant current on this wire so just about anything you have handy should work. 18 to 20 gauge wire should be fine.

Steve

So it doesn't have a significant impact on the ISC motor? Just wondering b/c I am experiencing problems with my idle dropping VERY low at times, sometime dying, and i've read that it can be caused by a bad ISC motor. Just wondering if that being unplugged could have any effect, or help in causing that to happen.

Josh

 

[steve]

So it doesn't have a significant impact on the ISC motor?

No I said there isn't a sigificant current flowing in the wire. If everything else is working correctly having the PS Switch disconnected isn't going to cause your car to die since the ECU should still notice the drop in RPM and use the ISC to bring the speed back up to spec.

Have you checked the coils in your ISC?

Steve