Power Locks. relay trigger?

[xXaTaXx]

Hey guys, I haven't noticed any 'electronics' sub-forum, so it was either here or newbie. Please move me as mod's see fit. Thanks.

Another problem with the 'central power locking system' but, this one hasn't been posted about (that my searches have returned). Yes Sir, I've read, re-read and worshipped my haynes manual/schematics(sp?) but to no avail--I still can't quite understand what's the matter. I have tested a couple things out though. Please bear with my explanations

How it happened:
My power locks ceased to work after a rather 'dumb' mistake involving a very quick
short circuit. At the time, the 10A fuse(engine bay fusebox) that resides in that 'yellow clip' blew. When I replaced it, my stereo, interior lights, etc. were fine, but no such luck with the power locks. With the kickpanel fuse(10A--PWR LCK) in, there are short intermittent and erratic beeps at very low volume. Only sometimes do I get a response from the door switch (lck/unlck). The response I get involves a loud singular beep (similar to chime when key is in acc, and you open door), and every-so-often a click from the area where your left knee belongs (2+ in down/left of steering column). There is no response from the passenger door though.

What I've done to try and figure it out:
I started by removing my center console/panels/radio/rear quarter panel to gain access to all the relays/main wire harness' that I should be concerned with. After a little exploring and setting off the factory alarm (which B.T.W. still arms itself and works properly), I decided to sever the brn/brn-white wires at each relay junction (rear quarter panel, behind stereo). As I clipped the first wire, my driver door unlocked. So I multimeter'd(new word =D) the brn/brn-white wires independently, using the steel around the steering column as a ground. Both wires are receiving 0.92-0.94V (I should have used a better ground but, it just shows there is + current flow through the wires). This is true at both relay locations. After doing this, I got around to thinking and tried jumping just one wire to complete the circuit, and continued this for both pairs of wire and both wires. Now, this is what confuses me. I've been told that our locking relays are negative triggered, but as the wires were jumped, the front relay locked/unlocked only the driver door, and the rear relay locked/unlocked only the passenger door--Just by jumping the wire. When I put the multimeter on the wire's supplying the .92V and moved the switch, the current dropped to zero and returned as I released.

Question:
Do these synopses(sp?) seem odd, or am I mis-understanding these wiring schematics?
What wire do I need to trigger to make both sides lock at the same time? and why wouldn't the negative pulses from the switch activate the relay?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Chris

 

[xXaTaXx]

I guess nobody was able to help me.
But for those of you that I managed to confuse and could possibly still help:

What's the P/N and price for the drive door switch box (pwr window, locks, window lock) as well as the passenger.

EDIT: And how the FSCK do I get both driver/passenger door relays to fire at the same time, I can only get one to unlock/lock at a time. Which wire do I need? TY

I'm not completely sure they're needed but i've just about broken all the plastic wells that have the screw threads to hold them to the door from being frustrated. (;C) I do know, however, that with a multimeter attached to ground & one of the wires from brown-white wire, As i press the switch one direction, the voltage drops to 0.04V and in the other direction only drops a small amount (not even close to 0V). So I figure the relays dont fire because these lines arn't being grounded. I installed a 'push-button' on one of the lines. [hold to connect, release to disconnecT] As soon as I released the button and pressed it back as fast as i could, The door lock fired.

Chris

 

[4UH8ERS]

What's the P/N and price for the drive door switch box (pwr window, locks, window lock) as well as the passenger.

Chris

I am horrible on the electrical side so I did what I could for ya.

http://www.trademotion.com/partloca...3&catalogid=1&year=1999&make=24&model=Eclipse

drivers side: $62.26
passenger: $25.57


heres a couple of used ebay parts at cheaper prices:

passenger: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2G-D...ItemQQcategoryZ33706QQitemZ150104484468QQrdZ1

driver: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-9...ItemQQcategoryZ50459QQitemZ250096819679QQrdZ1

eww a set: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1995...ItemQQcategoryZ50459QQitemZ150105396019QQrdZ1

theres a bunch more to.

 

[xXaTaXx]

Thanks!, I think i'm going for the 'eww a set' ones . Since I can not for the life of me find the fix to this problem, I just gotta cover all the bases.

Plus, it's a $9 something and after just buying a stage3+ clutch, 2 gauges, cluster pod, cellphone and some other goodies, I'm all done for a little bit.

Chris.

I am horrible on the electrical side so I did what I could for ya.

http://www.trademotion.com/partloca...3&catalogid=1&year=1999&make=24&model=Eclipse

drivers side: $62.26
passenger: $25.57


heres a couple of used ebay parts at cheaper prices:

passenger: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2G-D...ItemQQcategoryZ33706QQitemZ150104484468QQrdZ1

driver: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-9...ItemQQcategoryZ50459QQitemZ250096819679QQrdZ1

eww a set: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1995...ItemQQcategoryZ50459QQitemZ150105396019QQrdZ1

theres a bunch more to.

 

[4UH8ERS]

Ha, thats the least I can do, because i know exactly how you feel. My passenger side brakelamp only has been out for 3 months now. I can't figure out for the life of me what the problem is. Hope this works for you.

 

[xXaTaXx]

Lol, You know, at the same time the power locks stopped working, my rear defroster stopped too. Maybe she [dsm] was angry at me? I don't know, but it has to do with the wiring from point A to B. I ran those flat male connectors into the slots for the relay and just had a switch..... untill two days ago when the switch got stuck in the middle and then I smelt the most horribile burning smell while ON the highway. I popped out the panel it's on and ripped the wires apart, then threw the switch out the window (which burnt my fingers bad). haha. Good luck on that brake lamp (it's probably something simple, like a frayed wire.

I do have to say that the wiring in these DSM's (from what I've seen, factory wiring) is #### ugly and poorly routed.

=D
Chris

Ha, thats the least I can do, because i know exactly how you feel. My passenger side brakelamp only has been out for 3 months now. I can't figure out for the life of me what the problem is. Hope this works for you.

 

[4UH8ERS]

Good luck on the brake lamp (it's probably something simple, like a frayed wire.

Thanks, but I have replaced the wiring harness and traced the wires all the way back to the fuse box looking for a grounded or melted wire. none! I have just given up. I might just splice it into the other side but then when i click my directional it might turn on both sides .

I do have to say that the wiring in these DSM's (from what I've seen, factory wiring) is #### ugly and poorly routed.

=D
Chris

sad but true. The wiring is some of the worst i have ever seen. Where wires are spliced and then split connected from the factory, it looks like something a kid would do with some wire crimps.

 

[xXaTaXx]

Thanks, but I have replaced the wiring harness and traced the wires all the way back to the fuse box looking for a grounded or melted wire. none! I have just given up. I might just splice it into the other side but then when i click my directional it might turn on both sides .


sad but true. The wiring is some of the worst i have ever seen. Where wires are spliced and then split connected from the factory, it looks like something a kid would do with some wire crimps.

Haha. When I first bought my 'clipse, I hadn't done much electrical work on any car for that matter, so when I ripped into it, I was like 'Oh, thats why everything goes wrong with cars in general', but since then I've had the chance to work on my brothers '01-'02 Stratus R/T [ironically, manufactured in majority by mitsubishi] and it brought small tears to my eyes. Some of the wires even came from the factory with nametags!!! Ah, This is why I need to hunt for a 95+ GSX rolling shell and do what I've always wanted to do... Tear that mother down and redo everything.