Post your sputter, mis-fire, buck, stutter, etc...

[jérôme]

isc and tps can be checked by reading the ohms between the coils-check vfaq for the numbers.
coils are by the intake manifold-just follow your wires to the coils.

my problem: once warm, at any rpm, if i push the throttle too quickly this rattling sound appears, like a machine gun the other guy described. actually sounds like when youre learning to drive stick and you start it in first w/out enough gas, it makes that rattling sound.
->being read as knock and my timing is way off=no power.

 

[Dragon Talon]

I cant figure this out.... My car likes to have a low rpm rate and the engine light comes on, and it sounds like a bad low roar from the exhaust there is no power to really run a engine. My car does fine all the time but when it is cold or when it rains or after it rains it acts up...
I think i have a throtle body sticking promblem or my injectors are not injecting right. It runs real slugish and rough. but if i stop the car turn it off and re-start it it runs fine, it also seems to like to run at really high rpm level's and drive with high rpm's, all this happened when i ript off my box to the intake. I have recently replaced it with cold air intake, but the engine still runs slugesh if cold. also does anybody know why the wire plugs to the sparks, pop off somtimes?

 

[Chelm]

Something that nobody has mentioned so far is the fuel pump. When I bought my '93 talon tsi, it had all sorts of problems, including a hot-start and hesitation/bogging on pretty much any boosting. Eventually I tracked it down to the fuel pump, and both problems were solved. Just a though for some of the people that are having problems with highly erratic behavior.

For the guy who mentioned problems in wet weather--
I'd check your spark plug wires, if you can look at them and see little white dots, they are probably arcing to the engine block, its a pretty well documented problem with our cars. If you replace the wires, and keep your plug wells clean and free of oil it will help immensely.

Chris

 

[The Clipse]

sorry if this is off-topic but i needed a place to vent. yesterday my car had no pulling power for most of the day, then i heard something brake/pop and my car couldn't get past 15 mph in any gear. i popped the hood and everything around the intake manifold was shaking and making a very raw noise. the shop that looked at it briefly today said it is something seriously wrong w/ the internals like a collapsed lifter or something with the rod arm(??) or something. either way they're taking of the valve cover to take a better look. anyone have any idea what it could be? and if it is worth fixing? btw about 140,000 miles on the engine

 

[The Clipse]

i forgot to say that i had heard a very loud squeaking noise all day when i accelerated. thanks in advance for any replies

 

[norice4me]

ok i hit 5500 in any gear and it spudders 5500 up 2 6000 i it not fuel cut i dont know what it is thanx guys.

 

[vampire101]

My car would stutter/missfire at anything over 4200 rpms. I had a bad Fule pressure regulator. The only time my car will jerk now is if punch it when its cold.. easy fix to that is let it get a quarter temp ..

 

[quiXilver]

Has anyone had any luck fixing their sputtering problem?

 

[mrgsdsjg]

my car also bucks and sputters like crazy, huge problem, i cant aceelerate hard or build even stock boost without this problem. I noticed earlier in this forum someone stated they got bosch premium wires and this started happening, SO DID I!!!! It didnt start until after i got the plugs and wires in it. I think it might be the extra few inches of wire length so im gonna see about getting a coil pack and stock mitsu wires.

 

[PaCowboy300]

I have this ongoing problem with "studdering", "misfiring" it is spiratic, but unlike alot of the problems I have seen thru doing a "search" for answers, that are in a RPM based area. My studdering and misfiring is random but when it happens it happens all the time. Whether I am at idle, WOT, or Partial throttle. Sometimes it only lasts for a few mintues, and other times it lasts for as long as I am driving the car.

Anyone had this same problem? and if so what were your fixes?

thanks

 

[hunterd557]

This is a little embarassing as I just took ownership of this lovely machine.

Here's the issue:

I capped the tank off with 89 octane fuel and it drove fine until I went to downshift to pass a vehicle and my car threw a CEL.

Now when at low rpms she sputters, stammers and hesitates when applying full throttle. I've been searching since 7 oclock today and now it's going on midnight. This is my last resort.

Also, even when I get it to a RPM where she doesn't sputter, the power falls off so fast that I can't even enjoy the turboed aspect.

I honestly think it has something to do with the 89 octane I put in it, mostly due to the fact that I was able to accellerate just fine before and feel every last bit of power that she had to offer. Now, with this gasoline and after the downshift, she runs like hell and idles twice as hard.

That's another thing, the idle is rough, dropping from 1300 to around 500-600.

If anyone can be of ANY assistance please let me know . . .thank you.

-Dave

 

[duke52]

I finally solved a higher rpm miss that i would have in 3rd and 4th at the track. I recently installed a keydiver chip to compensate for 780cc inj, i'm also running a afpr(at stock pressure), and an safc, and using an egt to tune.

my egt's were higher then i would have liked, but when logging i was getting odd info that never seemed to be consistent. I found that i was running too cold of a plug and too rich as well.

I'm not suggesting everyone with a miss go out and swap to a hotter plug and lean it out,, but it's something to look at, when you are far enough away from where you need to be it may seem like it's lean when it's really rich,... I suggest getting a wideband or going to a dyno, the dyno was the only way i was able to isolate variables and home in on the plugs and that i was truly too rich...

often a hesitation or sluggishness can indicate that you are too rich.... or too LEAN so be careful. I think most of my problem was i changed my setup drastically and had a hard time finding a starting point to tune from

I'm currently running BR7ES's and making 329awhp (now awd ) i was trying to run BR8s and BR9s but i made 30hp by switching to a hotter plug and leaning it out on a dyno (VR helped me out on this) I'm now running at a safe afr and making alot more horse especially mid range.

 

[duke52]

This is a little embarassing as I just took ownership of this lovely machine.

Here's the issue:

I capped the tank off with 89 octane fuel and it drove fine until I went to downshift to pass a vehicle and my car threw a CEL.

Now when at low rpms she sputters, stammers and hesitates when applying full throttle. I've been searching since 7 oclock today and now it's going on midnight. This is my last resort.

Also, even when I get it to a RPM where she doesn't sputter, the power falls off so fast that I can't even enjoy the turboed aspect.

I honestly think it has something to do with the 89 octane I put in it, mostly due to the fact that I was able to accellerate just fine before and feel every last bit of power that she had to offer. Now, with this gasoline and after the downshift, she runs like hell and idles twice as hard.

That's another thing, the idle is rough, dropping from 1300 to around 500-600.

If anyone can be of ANY assistance please let me know . . .thank you.

-Dave

Start by checking CEL, it'll probably give you a pretty good insight. could be a bunch of things, including slipped timing... i've had that happen before and it sucks.... if it still runs it could be off just a tooth and need a new belt and hydraulic adjuster (tensioner) but more likely ignition or fuel related.... (the only reason i suggested that belt is it happened to me about 8 months ago while down shifting) if the code doesn't offer any help try plugs, also try some octane booster and disconnecting the bat to clear the fuel trims and knock count.
hope that helps!

 

[TEAMONEINC]

my 97 gst is stuttering at any given gear between four and five thousand rpm....i can ride it out and it will be fine, but its annoying....started after i installed my downpipe....so i recently ordered a MBC, boost gauge, accel wires, ngk plugs, and a HKS SSBV recirculation kit...once i get this all put on, i'll let ya know if it solved the problem.

 

[Generation X]

This is a little embarassing as I just took ownership of this lovely machine.

Here's the issue:

I capped the tank off with 89 octane fuel and it drove fine until I went to downshift to pass a vehicle and my car threw a CEL.

Now when at low rpms she sputters, stammers and hesitates when applying full throttle. I've been searching since 7 oclock today and now it's going on midnight. This is my last resort.

Also, even when I get it to a RPM where she doesn't sputter, the power falls off so fast that I can't even enjoy the turboed aspect.

I honestly think it has something to do with the 89 octane I put in it, mostly due to the fact that I was able to accellerate just fine before and feel every last bit of power that she had to offer. Now, with this gasoline and after the downshift, she runs like hell and idles twice as hard.

That's another thing, the idle is rough, dropping from 1300 to around 500-600.

If anyone can be of ANY assistance please let me know . . .thank you.

-Dave

The 89 octane is not good for our cars. Premium fuel 91 octane or higher. Your right, it maybe because of the 89 octane that you have put in. Your car maybe pulling timing like mad.

 

[hunterd557]

The 89 octane is not good for our cars. Premium fuel 91 octane or higher. Your right, it maybe because of the 89 octane that you have put in. Your car maybe pulling timing like mad.

So tell me, sir, how do I go about fixing that. Can I just pop octane booster in it, or will I have to tough it out and let this gas burn up? Also, when you refer to the phrase "pulling timing" what exactly does that entail and what can I do to alleviate this issue.


Thank you,
Dave

 

[Generation X]

So tell me, sir, how do I go about fixing that. Can I just pop octane booster in it, or will I have to tough it out and let this gas burn up? Also, when you refer to the phrase "pulling timing" what exactly does that entail and what can I do to alleviate this issue.


Thank you,
Dave

Dave... you can ride it out, if indeed that's your problem, that being the 89 octane fuel that you put in. I would start putting 91 or 93 octane there after.

When your engine pulls timing it is usually due to knock. Your engine is probably detonating because of the low octane fuel, and the knock sensor on the block is hearing it and therefore pulling timing, and holding back power potential.

Anyways... I'm pretty sure it even says use premium fuel only around your fuel gauge in your instument cluster.

Every car that comes from the factory that is turbocharged or supercharged is more than likely going to have to run 91 to 94 octane fuel. The higher the better.

 

[duke52]

check out this link,.. it explains how the ecu reacts to low octane gas
http://www.dsmchips.com/faq.asp?A=4

 

[hunterd557]

You guys are awesome, this helps alot. I'll go give that a looksee and then I'll see what I have to do in order to fix it. I'm sure it's fuel or something like you all said because it only did this after putting in that 89 fuel.

Yeah, it does say premium fuel only, I guess I should pay more attention next time. Hopefully by pulling the negative terminal, I can reset the ECU so that my power returns after putting in the premium fuel and octane booster.

Thanks alot guys, you've been a big help,
-Dave

 

[Generation X]

You guys are awesome, this helps alot. I'll go give that a looksee and then I'll see what I have to do in order to fix it. I'm sure it's fuel or something like you all said because it only did this after putting in that 89 fuel.

Yeah, it does say premium fuel only, I guess I should pay more attention next time. Hopefully by pulling the negative terminal, I can reset the ECU so that my power returns after putting in the premium fuel and octane booster.

Thanks alot guys, you've been a big help,
-Dave

No problem! Good luck to you.

 

[SlowChild3]

My car bucks after wot, if I let off slow or fast. BOV sounds good, replaced ISC.

 

[marq95gst]

I have permanent misfiring of my 1 and 2 cylinders. I have checked these things....

...
Battery voltage -- Resistor (thing between injectors and MFI relay)-- MFI Relay
ECU -- injectors ohm out fine -- spark plugs (ngk: gapped fine) -- NGK wires
Coil ohms out perfect -- Continuity between each wire at injectors perfect from injector to ecu, and to resistor.

Cylinders 3 and 4 run though. Of course I can't drive my car. This sucks. I do't want to go to SATAN, but if I must. Oh, I also threw dsm link on there, and that didn't work either...

Help!!!!!

 

[cfisher]

I get a little hesitation if I am at lower rpms and give it alot of gas and then let off real quick. I also have been having an issue with hot starts. The car starts up great when it's cold but if I turn it off and then turn it back on a couple minutes later it runs like crap for about 15 seconds.

 

[gman991057]

I am having some erratic timing at idle which is causing a little bit of idle surge while the car is warming up. I am also having some low rpm bucking due to erratic timing. and I am also seeing some misfiring starting with 2nd gear pulls and it just gets worse the higher the gear. This is all at low boost, around 14 psi and i am not running a wild tune. everything checks out ok(timing curve, o2 V, not caused by knock) after reading throught this post I am almost possitive I will be trying out Slowboy's Coil on Plug setup seeing as that will eliminate my wires and coil pack. I will post as to how that setup works out with my particular problems as soon as I buy and install it. Goodluck everyone and start posting more solutions!!! -Griff

 

[PastDue]

Hello,
I have a 91 Eclipse GST. It idles good and runs fine as far as everyday driving. But if I try to get on it, it pulls hard until about 5k and then it feels like I slammed into a brick wall. After a second or so it pulls hard again before it slams into another wall. Definitely want a seatbelt if your gonna get on it... otherwise you'll be eating steering wheel. Plugs and wires are new. No solution found as of yet.

PastDue