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Ported 1G intake mani = FRH, Venom, Magnus

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greycar said:
I am done with this tarded thread, Fact is I went 10.5@137 on a Magnus Intake, I have stated the reasons why the Magnus is better,due some research and learn about airflow before getting in over your head. Maybe the ones that are asking the tarded questions should just take the slow steps about learning how to go fast, You can't go 10s overnight even as easy as every DSMr thinks it is, Its NOT THAT EASY, maybe in fantasy racing league on playstaion, but this is real science, not fiction. This thread should get close due to it sounding like a broken record
People have gone in to the 10s using a stock 1g manifold. Congrats, however, on such a good pass :thumbsup:
 
It all boils down to what kind of power you want to make. We have alot of informative members on this site and all of this information is already out there. We can sit here all day and tell you wich one we think is better, but in the end you have to choose. Be realistic about your goals and you'll be fine. Don't go for the four cylinder folley of,"I want good bottom end and killer peak power."


Oh yeah, I almost forgot my opinion, Magnus is the best hands down. :p
 
Hmm I see that with the fhr they are using that phenolic gasket, Any of you using it?
 
Phenolic spacer or 1" piece of wood? After examining this intake and its rather large spacer i was coming to the conclusion that the intake was casted a bit to short and didn't clear the fuel rail and thats as to why there used such a large spacer because if you do remove that the intake will not bolt up. Most spacers i've ever seen have been maybe 1/4" thick. I odnt see any advantage of a 1" spacer. So im curious to know if it was so thick to fix the design flaw.
 
greycar said:
I am done with this tarded thread, Fact is I went 10.5@137 on a Magnus Intake
How do you fit in your car with such a big head? :rolleyes: I think everyone on the planet knows you went 10.59 enough already.
 
My brother was making points, and he has a working knowledge of a DSM. Not knowledge based on posts and the "potential" be be the quickest.
Like you're the man pube stache , nice profile with no time slips. Evan races at UTL events, which are close to Toledo, so if you wish to run your mouth and call him bigheaded then be a man and say it in person.
Everybody here would have some sort of cockiness if they ran 10.59, if you can't respect it and instead run your mouth then you're jealous, and that can sometimes be a bi***. so I suggest respect what he did since you have not accomplished squat.
And lastly, his posts were not that cocky, he was indicating his own personal preference and experience, which most people participating in this thread don't possess. And he stated that 10's don't come easy, that's the truth.

..... talk is cheap, even the brokest can afford it!
 
Its simple I have a really big helmet, Ask your girlfriend, she'll tell you.

Man this thread is getting sweet, I think the starter of the thread already said what intake he was going to buy, and I don't want to explain for the 4th time why the Magnus Intake is better, lock back and you'll understand, but remember this is THE EXTREME TECH FORMUM< THIS SHOULD NOT CONCERN YOU PEOPLE WITH 13 SECOND CARS, don't get pissy with me because we are on a different level, give yourself some time because you can't learn everything in a year, I have been racing independently for 8 years now,and been around cars my whole life, and I HAVE THOUGHT OUTSIDE THE BOX or else I wouldn't be going the times I am on a dinky t3/t4 conventional bearing turbo that cost $500.

I have to go to the hospital cause I keep hitting my head on everything, its sooooo big.

HEADBANGIN!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
PSI2HI said:
Phenolic spacer or 1" piece of wood? After examining this intake and its rather large spacer i was coming to the conclusion that the intake was casted a bit to short and didn't clear the fuel rail and thats as to why there used such a large spacer because if you do remove that the intake will not bolt up. Most spacers i've ever seen have been maybe 1/4" thick. I odnt see any advantage of a 1" spacer. So im curious to know if it was so thick to fix the design flaw.

The FRH Manifold was *designed* to use this spacer. That is why the spacre comes with the manifold when you buy it new.

Jay
 
poorboyj said:
The FRH Manifold was *designed* to use this spacer. That is why the spacre comes with the manifold when you buy it new.

Wrong answer.

The spacer thickness fixes a problem, can you guess what it is?

Hal
 
I enjoy reading the Extreme Tuner Forum, but I rarely post because I have nothing USEFULL, or CONTRIBUTING to give to the topic at hand. I suggest some of you (you know who you are) try to do the same. I think the thread starter made up his mind from the informative information that was given. Mods please lock this before posters like "Pube Stash" (WTF kinda handle is that anyway?) start the usual flaming with the members who do make a contribution. :thumbdown
 
Ok...
Unless someone has a car setup, and has ALL the intakes in question IN HIS POSSESION and does a Dyno run with each... There is no argueing.

The vendor said 2 different cars. Where neither car had the same set up. Close does not count for dick. Close IS NOT the SAME. Your test and info is bogus, and unusefull.

So, back to the topic...

A person needs to do several things before choosing an intake.
Select your desired "exclusive" powerband (no 3K-8K here) You pick a realistic powerband, say 4600-6800.

You then match as best you can the CFM of the intake, and your turbo. If you can get these 2 numbers close, your a good step in the right direction. Remember to take into account pressure/flow loss through the intercooler, pipes and bends of the system.

You also look at "pressurized" flow tests of the intakes. Not just pure CFM. This will tell you how the intake deals with different boost levels. This is VERY important to a VERY well tuned set up. You may find that at say 12 PSi, flow rates drop or are inconsistant, causing a power lag.

Now me personally, the 1G suits me just fine. In the midrange, it kicks major but. And I really do not plan on taking my engine past 6500 anyway, that is quite high enough for me.

Also remember that the shorter the runner the more high end, but the less low/middle end. The longer you get more high/mid end but loose low end dramatically. That is one of the reasons the Cyclone is such a good investment. I would say it is one of the best all around performers out there. Long high off boost Trq curve, and high under boost flow rates.
 
I bet the FRH spacer is because of a total flaw in there design, If you look at the runners w/o spacer they are like 2.5inches this will work good for 15,000rpm revs but won't work for sheeite on a typical 11 sec setup.

The shorter the runner the more top end fow for high horsepower no torque cars

but horsepower sells cars, torque wins races,

So a intake manifold with a 4-5inch runner will give the best of both worlds, revs and torque.

Even if I had 500hp(which would be out of hand) on my rally car I would still run a stock manifold, because of the low end torque curve and responce that it gives.

Ever car has to be entirely thought out before building, you want each part to work at maximum efficiency, do the research on the parts you are buying because each part will respond differently with eachother. The main thing in racing to look for is all out efficiency whether it be the part, the car, or the driver, they all have to work NSYNC or your setup will never reach its full potential.
 
I don't have any experience with the magnus or other manifold out there so I will not post my opinion of them. I think we are being a little harsh on the FRH though. I have one on my car and ran an 11.5 @ 121 on 21 psi with my 3052. At 25 psi I trapped a little over 127 mph with a terrible 1.8 60 foot and a broken tranny. Maybe mine is a fluke, but it seems to work just fine for me. Oh yeah, it has good bottom and top end too.
 
eclipsefwd wheres Poopville, Michigan I haven't heard of it before, or are you talking about Detroit :laugh:
 
yeah i went with Jim Mckeone for a intake mani basic sma design as magnus but a bigger plenum reasonable price around 200 cheaper than magnus so its a nice piece and ill keep yall updated when i get it :talon:
 
liquordrunk; Good luck Bro, Keep racing. Sorry your thread got a little out of hand, hope you enjoyed it.
 
Bostedquest said:
Ok...
Unless someone has a car setup, and has ALL the intakes in question IN HIS POSSESION and does a Dyno run with each... There is no argueing.

The vendor said 2 different cars. Where neither car had the same set up. Close does not count for dick. Close IS NOT the SAME. Your test and info is bogus, and unusefull.

So, back to the topic...

A person needs to do several things before choosing an intake.
Select your desired "exclusive" powerband (no 3K-8K here) You pick a realistic powerband, say 4600-6800.

You then match as best you can the CFM of the intake, and your turbo. If you can get these 2 numbers close, your a good step in the right direction. Remember to take into account pressure/flow loss through the intercooler, pipes and bends of the system.

You also look at "pressurized" flow tests of the intakes. Not just pure CFM. This will tell you how the intake deals with different boost levels. This is VERY important to a VERY well tuned set up. You may find that at say 12 PSi, flow rates drop or are inconsistant, causing a power lag.

Now me personally, the 1G suits me just fine. In the midrange, it kicks major but. And I really do not plan on taking my engine past 6500 anyway, that is quite high enough for me.

Also remember that the shorter the runner the more high end, but the less low/middle end. The longer you get more high/mid end but loose low end dramatically. That is one of the reasons the Cyclone is such a good investment. I would say it is one of the best all around performers out there. Long high off boost Trq curve, and high under boost flow rates.

A powerband that ends @ 6800 is a joke for anyone utilizing larger setups. the big power is made on the top end which is past 6800. That is why in my testing the FRH intake did not make the big power, it had no top end pull whatsoever, by 6800 its powerband was done. Now on a SC61 when your powerband ends @ 6800 you are sacrificing a lot of power, exactly why such the drastic difference in peak power bewteen the 2 vehicles tested.

Now onto torque curve. Once again the FRH intake peaked and fell off by 5800. The magnus intake peaked and held the curve to 6800 and had a much more broad curve. Once again advantage Magnus.
 
PSI2HI said:
A powerband that ends @ 6800 is a joke for anyone utilizing larger setups. the big power is made on the top end which is past 6800. That is why in my testing the FRH intake did not make the big power, it had no top end pull whatsoever, by 6800 its powerband was done. Now on a SC61 when your powerband ends @ 6800 you are sacrificing a lot of power, exactly why such the drastic difference in peak power bewteen the 2 vehicles tested.

Now onto torque curve. Once again the FRH intake peaked and fell off by 5800. The magnus intake peaked and held the curve to 6800 and had a much more broad curve. Once again advantage Magnus.

Hey this is why we will beat em at the track. We tried telling them why the Magnus kicks ass, but like most DSM people the cheapest is the best, so whatever. Until they listen, they won't get what they want out of their car.

Damn my head is big! PSI2HI, is your head big too. It must be if you like the Magnus Intake,
 
WombatTSi said:
porting a 1g manifold isn't easy, by any means. Making the holes bigger, thats easy; getting the runner diameter to match is the hard part. It needs to be extrude honed, becuase of the lenght and shape of the runners, theres no way to just simply get a die grinder in there. Look to spend between $300 and $500 to get it extrude honed. That is if you can find a shop with the equipment to do it. And even then, it will still flatten out up top. Its not the size of the runners that makes that big a difference, its the length of them that kills the top end. Just go with a aftermarket one, if nothing else, think of all the weight you'll lose :p
Great reply, took the words out of my mouth.

Magnus or FRH would be my choices....I'll personaly buy a Magnus.
 
WikedSicc said:
Anyone that thinks the Magnus is a good intake manifold has absolutly no idea of how airflow works. The Forrester and BJ's is a much much much better design. Have you seen inside the plenum of the Magnus, it blows my mind everytime I look at it. What were they thinking?!?!?!
Oh my God this is great. Looks can be deceiving. Wow you really don't know anything about intake manifolds. Please refrain from posting here.
(search what veocity stacks are)

Hal said:
Wrong answer.

The spacer thickness fixes a problem, can you guess what it is?

Hal
Is it to prevent heat penetration? I can't think of the term, it's been a busy day at work.

anomalyinva said:
People have gone in to the 10s using a stock 1g manifold. Congrats, however, on such a good pass :thumbsup:
Your thinking inside the "box"...could he have gone 9's if the intake manifold was not restricting him?
 
Tallen said:
Is it to prevent heat penetration? I can't think of the term, it's been a busy day at work.
I think you're trying to say "heat transfer from the head to the intake manifold". I don't think that's why Forrester did that, personally; anything more than 1/4" or so is probably overkill for this application.

My two pet theories are:
  1. Tuning. He had the plenum and short runners cast, then used the spacer to help determine the runner length that performed best. Multiple castings would have gotten expensive quick, I'd guess.
  2. Mount damping. His manifold is cast, and probably a little heavier than the stocker. If it doesn't use the stock support bracket (I have no idea, I've never seen the underside of his manifold), I'd be a little concerned about vibration. The spacer provides a bit of damping in this case.
But it doesn't really matter all that much to me. ;)
 
Its called a phenolic spacer. I run one with my MAGNUS intake, everybody should have one and they only cost like 60bucks and they are 1/4inch thick. And they work great, nuf said,"G" :thumb:
 
I've seen many Magnus intakes putting down better numbers than any other manifold on the market right now. Unfortunatly, I've also saw two crack locally last year, and they're aren't that many around here total.
 
Any part you buy has the potential of breaking, especially when you are pushing the envelope, but the best thing about the Magnus is I know for a fact Marco stands 110% behind his products, where other companies give the cold shoulder. And if you buy from Marco you can recieve real technical assistance if you are having problems, not some idiot that really has no idea.
 
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