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plugs

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4BangerV8Killer

Banned Member
417
1
Aug 25, 2004
San Martin, California
i know that the best plugs to get are the ngk bpr6es's but there are so many new tech plugs are these still the best? they have some pretty good looking ones maybe an explaination on why bpr6es are best would help us?
 
oh ya personally i think they suck ive burt quite a few tips of these little bastards cost me an engine and a new head!
 
Well maybe you were not tuned right. Or perhaps it was time to switch to a colder plug like the bpr7es. If you want to spend 10$ each on some iridolatinum plug go ahead. The fact is to many people have made to much power and ran to fast with them for others to even consider a different plug. They are cheap and they work fine, what more do you want.
 
I'm going to have to agree with Stanford on this one. More than likely its the tune as there are plenty of people running BPR6ES just fine. If you're burning the 6ES up I am betting your running elevated boost and therefore would probably be best with the BPR7ES. See if that makes a difference. :thumb:
 
K.I.S.S. Theory. Keep It Simple Stupid. Basically, dont go out of your way to fix something if it isnt broken.

--Kyle :talon:
 
well K.I.S.S my ass j/k haha anyway ya the only thing i knew was that those platinums get to hot and you get detonation from precombustion
 
dsmayhem said:
I'm going to have to agree with Stanford on this one. More than likely its the tune as there are plenty of people running BPR6ES just fine. If you're burning the 6ES up I am betting your running elevated boost and therefore would probably be best with the BPR7ES. See if that makes a difference. :thumb:
I agree. I was running 6ES's and it was hard to keep knock down when the temps were 70 and above. At night I had less problems with knock. The temps were 61F. Well after reading a little info on heat range I decided to try the 7ES's. Well I bought the 7ES's and with no other changes I noticed that my knock went down and timing improved, even if temps were at 80F. It made sense that the plugs help reduce the combustion temps which in turn helped in preventing knock on California Diet 91 octane. Now if I had better "Premium" gas I probably would not have such a minor problem with worrying about intake temps. Basically as per my experience, it helped alot ;) . Heres what I read.

The term spark plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. Whether the plug is to be installed in a boat, lawnmower or racecar, it has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500°C–850°C. When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling.

The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a “cold plug”, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A “hot plug” has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter.

An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate racing fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug. A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber.
 
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