The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Post a Question

Please help with Cyclone

Please Support ExtremePSI

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

gsxeclipse97 said:
No you cannot tell when the second runners are open or closed there is no hiccup of air flow. But mine the transition is very smooth.
Click to expand...

For what it is worth, with my cyclone and eprom chip I was running a bit lean and definitely noticed a consistent "hiccup" (knock) at 4100 rpms. I'm not saying avoid the intake, just be prepared to add extra fuel at whatever rpm you activate it at in case you have the same experience. :thumb:


I'd also recommend just doing a rebuild unless you have a cheap swap available. I spent about $600 on mine after selling my old block and have leaky valve stem seals and valve cover gaskets. I should have just rebuilt my engine for the extra $800-1k.
 
gsxeclipse97 said:
yes you use all of you stock stuff and swap it out. You might be able to use the sensor that come on that motor but i wouldn't recomend that..
Click to expand...

You could... if it had one. It doesn't. You will want to keep your housing with the sensor or you'll need to find an adapter to hook up your pressure gauge. The GVR4 only has a pressure sensor but no gauge sensor.
 
The amount of topend power you are losing is like 4 cfm = nothing...i paid 100 for mine and if you can install it yourself...great do it...however, to get it properly working you need an in-the-cockpit switch, JDM ECU, or Chip
 
Wow...

Have any of you actually driven a car with a corrrectly set up and functional cyclone set up?

It provides a significant improvement in torque in the midrange, with very little loss in top end.

In fact, if you're so worried about the approximately 4 cfm loss up top, you should be running a sheetmetal/aftermarket manifold. You should also be running really bumpy cams, and an upgraded valvetrain that will let you rev to 9000 and beyond....:rolleyes:

For the rest of us that live on planet earth and actually drive our cars, it's a nice addition to a well planned and executed engine build.

There's a lot of good info out there on how to correctly set the system up, and several choices to correctly actuate the system.

A usdm e-prom ecu, and a Keydiver chip is one of the easier ways to get started. There is some small amount of wiring involved for the actuator, and some component re-location required. (The coils won't fit on the intake anymore).

One thing to be wary of is that there is several versions of the "cyclone" intake, and not all of them are actually dual runner set-ups. Make sure that you're getting the real deal, and that you get the actuator and all the goodies that will allow the system to be transplanted onto your usdm motor.

There's so many jdm galant vr-4 motors flooding the market here recently that you should be able to score a complete system cost effectively.

Correctly set-up, this system will provide for improved drivability, and better midrange torque.

The dual runner set-up uses eight runners. Four are open at low engine speeds/airflow rates. This increases the velocity of the airflow, allowing for better cylinder filling at lower rpms. At higher rpm's/airflow rates, the other four runners are opened up, which will allow for complete cylinder filling at higher rpms. The 1g ports are actually oversized for low rpm operation, and running a dual port manifold will allow the best of both worlds, with very little penalty up top.

I mean honestly, how many times do you get a full pull to 7000 rpm on the street, versus how many times do you pass thru 3500 on your way to work?

It's a case of different horses for different courses...

:dsm:
 
Alright well I've looked around on this website and found a few articles on the cyclone intake, but all of the ones mentioned are one the turbo cars. I was wondering what the cyclone intake does, does it perform better and what needs to be done for it to work. My car is a 91 talon NT and the car has this motor in it:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Any of your suggestion would help as im still trying to learn. Thanks in advance.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited by a moderator:
Some intake manifolds were labeled "cyclone" from the factory, but were otherwise the same as any other 4g63 intake manifold. Yours looks like one of those.

Some of them did have a dual-runner setup, and a set of butterfly valves inside to switch between them. Externally, a vacuum canister and vacuum switching valve opened or closed the butterflies as necessary when the ECU activated the switching valve.

The dual-runner cyclone manifold gives a nice bump in low-midrange torque over the stock 1g manifold, but it does require ECU modifications to work properly if you have a US-spec ECU, or you can also find some way of controlling it on your own. MSD makes an RPM-activated switch that would work, or there are various other methods as well.

If you already have the dual-runner manifold, but you don't have the vacuum switching hooked up right, it is probably worth your while to get it working. If you just have the single-runner manifold with the "Cyclone" label, I'd leave it as is.
 
ThingyNess said:
Some intake manifolds were labeled "cyclone" from the factory, but were otherwise the same as any other 4g63 intake manifold. Yours looks like one of those.

Some of them did have a dual-runner setup, and a set of butterfly valves inside to switch between them. Externally, a vacuum canister and vacuum switching valve opened or closed the butterflies as necessary when the ECU activated the switching valve.

The dual-runner cyclone manifold gives a nice bump in low-midrange torque over the stock 1g manifold, but it does require ECU modifications to work properly if you have a US-spec ECU, or you can also find some way of controlling it on your own. MSD makes an RPM-activated switch that would work, or there are various other methods as well.

If you already have the dual-runner manifold, but you don't have the vacuum switching hooked up right, it is probably worth your while to get it working. If you just have the single-runner manifold with the "Cyclone" label, I'd leave it as is.
Click to expand...


Like I said the NA Cyclone is the same as stock.. there were no NA's that came with the Dual runner Cyclone maifold.
 
It is true. There aren't any NA cyclones.

Just for the record you can use the honda apex afc with vtec controller to actuate the secondary runners at specific rpm points. It is a moderately cool idea but comes with a higher price tag than a sheet metal intake which is more effective.
 
The old engine probably went bad and they bought a imported motor to replace the old one.
 
jdm4g63 said:
It is true. There aren't any NA cyclones.

Just for the record you can use the honda apex afc with vtec controller to actuate the secondary runners at specific rpm points. It is a moderately cool idea but comes with a higher price tag than a sheet metal intake which is more effective.
Click to expand...

You can just use the purge selanoid and have it activated via ECU hehe thats what I run.
 
There would probably be no benifit on having the dual runner set up on these NA motors. Although Nissan runs them on the new VQ35 motors which are NA, the Mitsubishi dual runner intakes were designed with turbo's in mind. ANd since everyone else is posting how there's is set up...

Hobbs switch set to 11 psi, White vacuum canister, and the egr valve
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Nice, I was considering a hobbs too but I'll want to change the rpm to fine tune it to find my max TQ or HP gain out of the manifold. also I upgrade the turbo, because they flow different at different boost pressures. How do you like your cyclone thus far? Mines just a bunch of parts sitting in the garage for now.
 
allgripnoslip said:
Mine is being actuated by another stock purge valve controlled by an RPM window switch. Eventually to be controlled by my ECU+ :talon:
Click to expand...

holly crap, i havent heard from you in forever, how is that front mount you bought off me.

My cyclone just got repainted, but im thinking of painting it a darker charcoal grey instead of the puter one I have.
 
allgripnoslip said:
Nice, I was considering a hobbs too but I'll want to change the rpm to fine tune it to find my max TQ or HP gain out of the manifold. also I upgrade the turbo, because they flow different at different boost pressures. How do you like your cyclone thus far? Mines just a bunch of parts sitting in the garage for now.
Click to expand...

Yeah I'd like to be able to fine tune my by rpm too, but I just needed a quick cheep functional fix for the time being. But I LOVE the manifold. I'm a DD/Autocross kinda driver so the extra torque and faster spool meet my needs just fine. I actually considered posting a thread to see at what RPM people's boost came to full boost in second gear. I wanted to compare the proper or good functioning Cyclone to a normal manifold. I have my boost set to 15psi and from 2K rpm in second gear if I drop the hammer I have 10psi byaround 3K and full boost by 3500K.
 
allgripnoslip said:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Adju...ryZ46101QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

That is the rpm control module that I am using to control the purge valve. I dont know yet what rpm im going to set it as but Ill do some dyno plots and see where Im gaining power and torque and set it to my needs. I have the same goals for my talon as well, a DD/auto-x/ some drag time
Click to expand...

I've got money on around 4500-4700 rpm will be your perfect crossover point. Please let us know when you find out! :talon:
 
Looking into getting a cyclone intake manifold for my 1g. Only one problem, not really sure what the differences/benefits from using it. Just looking for some basic info on this piece, and does any modification have to be done to make it fit a basically stock 1g turbo motor. Also will 2g front and rear seats fit in a 1g. thanks alot tuners!
 
The only thing you will probably gain is a couple of dents in the car from the "Cyclone" stuff not working... It just has secondary butterflys in the manifold that open up at certain RPMs to give more low end and mid range power... Alot of people have got them to work though... Ive seen people use the fuel pressure solenoid, an egr valve, and an RPM switch to activate it... If it works, that would be great.. Plus the intake manifold says "TURBO INTERCOOLER" hella big on it... good luck with that...

I want to know about the seats as well.. I have a 1g that is in desperate need of seats
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!

Similar threads

Cyclone Intake..... Help Please~!
Replies
2
Views
782
KRAZYKOREAN
KRAZYKOREAN
ErikTande
Cyclone help
Replies
15
Views
3K
BeatupVR4
BeatupVR4
hondamunchergsx
problem with fuel please help ....PLEASE
Replies
9
Views
893
hopwoodp
hopwoodp
hondamunchergsx
problem with fuel please help ....PLEASE
Replies
1
Views
576
DSM90AWD
DSM90AWD
Help With Turbo...Please.
Replies
7
Views
827
nine5raptor
Boosted Fabrication
ECM Tuning
ExtremePSI
FIBA Motorsport
Fuel Injector Clinic
Innovation Products
Jacks Transmissions
JNZ Tuning
Kiggly Racing
Morrison Fabrications
Rix Racing
RockAuto
STM Tuned
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top