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Please help this car is killing me

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Tamatalon39

10+ Year Contributor
78
0
Aug 20, 2011
Robesonia, Pennsylvania
Hi I have searched and searched but nothing has helped, so can someone tell me where the knock sensor wiring runs to on the ecu. Reason is I have a 95 Talon TSI that has a 6 bolt swap and it wont start, it cranks at a slower speed than it should (not sure why) as the battery is fully charged and i have a charger running along with it while trying to start it... now this engine was in there when I got the car off of ebay, and It looks like the P.O. started to do the wiring and gave up. now I replaced the CAS sensor to one that works and rewired it so that I have spark, and it sounds like it trying to kick over.

it has fuel as it smells flooded. only thing i can figure is: that the knock sensor is the problem, it is unhooked and I cannot find the wiring at all in the engine bay so I can only assume that the P.O. ripped them out for some odd reason. so I want to run a new set of wires to where it goes in the computer or wherever. I hope that makes sense.


I am well aware what the connector looks like. and what color the wires are( from a search on here) please help
 
Check here Visual Frequently Answered Questions - Home Page. Since it has a 6bolt swap Im guessing you have a 1g Ecu, looks to be pin #9 detonation sensor. Hope that helps bro.

Sorry it wont let me edit my post for some reason. Go to vfaq and under electrical there will be Ecu pinouts for 1&2g Ecu's.
 
it still has the 2g Ecu as far as I know thanks for the link tho I will save it for further use. I did read through it and on the 2g ecu pin layout I dont see anything for a knock sensor.
 
When using a non 95-96 cam angle sensor you have to swap the plug wires as in this link. swapplugwires [ECMTuning - wiki] Also make sure the coolant temp sensor is hooked up and that the CAS is adjusted correctly. And obviously verify that you have fuel, spark, compression, and make sure all of your battery connections and ground/power connections are all tight and free of corrosion.
 
all the sensors are hooked up except the knock sensor, and the CAS is set in the middle (i was moving it around while attempting to start it to see if that helped. it didn't) I will check the firing order tomorrow when it gets light out. thanks

oh the connections are good for the battery but the PO moved it to the trunk
 
I would say make sure your ground wires are good and your power cables and terminals are good to the starter and the battery, then I would change out the spark plugs if you've been trying to start it and its been flooded for a while. The reason being is despite the condition of the plugs previously if you over expose the ignition plugs to raw hydrocarbons ( liquid fuel) it can actually destroy the core of the spark plugs and create an open circuit which wont allow spark to reach the electrode on the plugs tip.

Once you check these things and swap out the plugs (and use some cheap ones or even a set of known working old ones) try to start it. if she comes alive you work from there if not try to pinpoint that other fuel or spark delivery components aren't malfunctioning preventing you from getting it running.....

William-
 
OK soi checked the plug wires and they were in the correct position, I will swap out plugs today and see where that takes me, so no one has answered this:


If the knock sensor is NOT hooked up will the car start and run?

also never did an AMP on a starter before do I have to remove it, because if so I may as well just put a new one on there>
 
I'm pretty sure I remember hearing that 2gs don't have knock sensors, just 1gs.

I'm pretty sure you're dead wrong.

OK soi checked the plug wires and they were in the correct position, I will swap out plugs today and see where that takes me, so no one has answered this:


If the knock sensor is NOT hooked up will the car start and run?

also never did an AMP on a starter before do I have to remove it, because if so I may as well just put a new one on there>

Yes it will run without a knock sensor.

No, you don't have to remove the starter do perform that test.
 
OK update, replaced plugs no different, and i found the knock sensor wiring, it was already hooked up, this is because for some reason this block has another knock sensor unhooked ( not sure why it has 2) so I am back to square one. noticed that the airflow meter doesn't have an ignition 12+ not sure why so i jumped on to the fuse box to a keyed hot, (no difference) I also read somewhere about an ECU fuse where is that
 
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