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TheNewGuy425

Probationary Member
6
0
Nov 8, 2011
Lynnwood, Washington
Hey Guys I'm currently looking into purchasing my first dsm! I was wondering if you could help me out with what i should look for on this 1997 eagle talon tsi awd (Such as bargaining points for myself or what to look out for/inspect when checking it out/test driving) Here's the link: Click Me! Some things that would help with your input are that the car has appx. 140k miles on the chassis and it says that it has 100 miles on new 2g block with 1g head (More details in link, pics of many things). Thank you in advance for your help. This is not a price this car post, more of a Please help me semi inspect this serious purchase instead of having me buy something I shouldn't have.
 
Ty for your input! Should I be worried about anything particular down the road? Such as something malfunctioning/ going wrong?
 
I'm always leery of cars with engines that fresh. You don't know who built it, you don't know if it will last 100k or spin a bearing when you start it the morning after you buy it.

Too many cut-rate mechanics and machinists out there doing shitty work like assembling engines without checking oil tolerances, etc. I'd rather see the mileage on the engine near 10K than just 100 miles.
 
How do you put a 1g head on a 2g block? thought the threads for the 6bolt headstuds were 12mm and the 7bolts 11mm... I know people do the 6bolt block and 7bolt head combo.

Personally I would not give more then 4 grand TOPS. He stating injector size like it is an american car and not in CC

What pistons? MAlloy? does he mean Mahle or Manley? I would steer clear of this car based on his ad.
 
How do you put a 1g head on a 2g block? thought the threads for the 6bolt headstuds were 12mm and the 7bolts 11mm... I know people do the 6bolt block and 7bolt head combo.
You seem to be confusing yourself. The 12mm bolt holes in a 1G head will not interfere with a 2G block's 11mm studs/bolts in any way. It's when you reverse the order that you run into an issue.
 
With this price 4k (If they agree). Can I drive the car hard from the start (Might as well from the dealership right?)or Should I be worried about something breaking right away?

Will the bigger injectors help with longevity? I estimated 60lbs to be about 630-660cc. Or talk seller into some sort of warranty for longer than the break in period? (3months,3,000miles) I have heard of dealerships doing similar warranties to this (just make sure that I have it in writing and it covers all parts), I just still don't want to shell out 4 grand and have a busted ride.
 
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Although the engine isn't a sure thing (Honestly, with these cars, you can never be sure on builds like said above on whether it was done right), it does have a cf hatch/hood (~800$) Baer brakes (~500$) FP manifold (~180$) Coil pack (100$) evo steering wheel (~150-200$) Basic engine upgrades (FMIC+Hardpipes+fake or real HKS BOV+Filter+Injen intake pipe+bucket seats+upgraded rad=~400$ based on used prices), stand alone ECU (I'm guessing DSM Link ~500$) clean interior, no strut rust I don't think he's way off on price if the engine is good. That's 2630$ on upgrades alone (most of which keep their value and chances are, if you were thinking of modding it in the future, would probably buy anyway, + shipping on all parts). Granted try to get it as low as possible, but it's not way off. Personally, if it were my money and the engine checked-out I'd grab it (probably for 6000$), but I'm also in Canada, prices are a bit different.

The fact he can't spell them doesn't necessarily mean it's done badly, I once bought an eclipse of the same type, seller knew nothing about it, just repeated very badly what the previous owner had done. I guess he bought it, found out it was too much of a work load and sold it. It ran like a charm. Your best bet is to get someone from here that lives close to check it for you if you're not familiar with the engine if they decide to sell at your price range.

Another thing to check (value wise) is the title of the car (can be checked via the VIN) see if it's a rebuilt/salvage title and so on, could help you bring it down or make you forget it all together.
 
At first glance, these look like a much cleaner examples for that kind of price.

1998 Eagle Talon TSI AWD

or if you want the mods

1995 Eagle Talon AWD turbo

LOL that red one has been for sale for about 2-3 years LOL.

Although the engine isn't a sure thing (Honestly, with these cars, you can never be sure on builds like said above on whether it was done right), it does have a cf hatch/hood (~800$) Baer brakes (~500$) FP manifold (~180$) Coil pack (100$) evo steering wheel (~150-200$) Basic engine upgrades (FMIC+Hardpipes+fake or real HKS BOV+Filter+Injen intake pipe+bucket seats+upgraded rad=~400$ based on used prices), stand alone ECU (I'm guessing DSM Link ~500$) clean interior, no strut rust I don't think he's way off on price if the engine is good. That's 2630$ on upgrades alone (most of which keep their value and chances are, if you were thinking of modding it in the future, would probably buy anyway, + shipping on all parts). Granted try to get it as low as possible, but it's not way off. Personally, if it were my money and the engine checked-out I'd grab it (probably for 6000$), but I'm also in Canada, prices are a bit different.

The fact he can't spell them doesn't necessarily mean it's done badly, I once bought an eclipse of the same type, seller knew nothing about it, just repeated very badly what the previous owner had done. I guess he bought it, found out it was too much of a work load and sold it. It ran like a charm. Your best bet is to get someone from here that lives close to check it for you if you're not familiar with the engine if they decide to sell at your price range.

Another thing to check (value wise) is the title of the car (can be checked via the VIN) see if it's a rebuilt/salvage title and so on, could help you bring it down or make you forget it all together.

^^ aggreed
 
At first glance, these look like a much cleaner examples for that kind of price.

1998 Eagle Talon TSI AWD

or if you want the mods

1995 Eagle Talon AWD turbo


The red one has been for sale for years.

Id suggest to the OP to not buy a modded DSM, if you have little experience with them. The fact of the matter is, modded cars will break more often then non. Why? Because they are usually driven hard, as that's why they were modded in the first place, to go fast. The same can happen with a bone stock car, but there's less factors to worry about.

Id find a stock 2g, do lots of reading and research, and build it the way you want. If youre a buy rather than build kind of guy, than best of luck to you and your purchasing choice.
 
i bought my 97 last friday from a used car dealership by sat morning it was sitting in my drive way (where its still sitting) undrivable. i paid 4000 for mine thinking if i paid that much it must be decent car. nope egr valve is bad, there was a giant hole in the cold air intake pipe. i didnt notice at the dealership they did a great job hiding everything thats wrong with the car. dealerships often just reset the check engine light if somethings wrong with the car and then u find out a day or so later. the lambo doors dont latch correctly, the slave cylinder has a leak so now i have to fix that before it can move again. and one more little bit of advice check the tires before you go anywhere. i didnt check mine good enough the front right went out going down the highway sat morning and took me off the road, i bought a POS. honestly it sounds like your gona be in the same boat if u buy this car. if it sounds too good to be true it is. also do you know why it has a new block, i can tell you they didnt do it just for fun, something broke. it was most likely driven hard
 
i realize i got screwed. it was a stupid decision to buy the car. like i said the dealership did a really good job of hiding problems. but i'm stuck with the car now. i am sure they intentionally hid the problems because the hole in the cold air intake was closed with foil tape and then spray painted but the paint didn't match quite right thats how i noticed. everything went wrong with the car in less than 13 hours and i wasn't even driving it hard. i spent the last week fixing it and looking for ways to either return the car or make them pay for it. but i signed the as-is papers so i think im stuck with it
 
Hey Guys I'm currently looking into purchasing my first dsm! I was wondering if you could help me out with what i should look for on this 1997 eagle talon tsi awd (Such as bargaining points for myself or what to look out for/inspect when checking it out/test driving) Here's the link: Click Me! Some things that would help with your input are that the car has appx. 140k miles on the chassis and it says that it has 100 miles on new 2g block with 1g head (More details in link, pics of many things). Thank you in advance for your help. This is not a price this car post, more of a Please help me semi inspect this serious purchase instead of having me buy something I shouldn't have.

The car's really not that bad, some stupid mods but nothing too seriously detrimental. Go for a lower price, I got my 98 Tsi for $3,800 with a few modest modifications. Also consider a 1g, there are benefits and costs for both models. In the end it's going to be your car, not ours, so make sure you love it. Good luck and I hope you love having a DSM as much as we all do.
 
i realize i got screwed. it was a stupid decision to buy the car. like i said the dealership did a really good job of hiding problems. but i'm stuck with the car now. i am sure they intentionally hid the problems because the hole in the cold air intake was closed with foil tape and then spray painted but the paint didn't match quite right thats how i noticed. everything went wrong with the car in less than 13 hours and i wasn't even driving it hard. i spent the last week fixing it and looking for ways to either return the car or make them pay for it. but i signed the as-is papers so i think im stuck with it

as is if they didn't lie. That car is a complete lemon. and you get 3 days to return it.
If the police report doesn't help, say you're going to talk to your lawyer and have one write up a nice letter. Also contact the BBB
 
The red one has been for sale for years.

Id suggest to the OP to not buy a modded DSM, if you have little experience with them. The fact of the matter is, modded cars will break more often then non. Why? Because they are usually driven hard, as that's why they were modded in the first place, to go fast. The same can happen with a bone stock car, but there's less factors to worry about.

Id find a stock 2g, do lots of reading and research, and build it the way you want. If youre a buy rather than build kind of guy, than best of luck to you and your purchasing choice.
^^^agreed

as is if they didn't lie. That car is a complete lemon. and you get 3 days to return it.
If the police report doesn't help, say you're going to talk to your lawyer and have one write up a nice letter. Also contact the BBB

Don't forget to take it to a shop to get a quote on how much it will take to fix the problem, this will better help your case and provide evidence. Nevertheless I would definitely check up on your state's lemon laws.
 
i looked into it, but nothing was real clear. getting a lawyer and a police report and all that seems like a lot of trouble when im probably better of keeping the car and working on it over the winter. and the three day rule doesn't apply anymore since this was last week. im just gona keep the car now and work on it. come springtime i will know that everything is done right and i will have a fun car for the summer.
 
Couple things:

Sellers Description
THIS CAR IS FULLY BUILT AND NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEARTS!
1) Not proper english, should be "faint of heart"

FREASHLY BUILT WITH ONLY A 100 MILES ON THE NEW 2G BLOCK WITH A 1G HEAD
2) Again, not proper english, "freashly" are not a word :rolleyes:

MALLOY PISTONS,
3) WTF are Mallow pistons?

EAGLE RODS (ask for proof)

60LBS INJECTORS
4) WTH are 60lbs injectors?

6 PUCK CLUTCH, SHORT SHIFTER, T3 TURBO, CUSTOM GAUGES
5) All scream eBay unless reciepts are present

STAND ALONE ECU,
6) See it in order to believe it, that alone is about $800

CARBON FIBER HOOD AND DECK LID, AND MUCH MUCH MORE. COME SEE THIS CAR IN PERSON AND DON'T WAIT TO BUY IT BECAUSE IT IS RARE TO FIND THIS KIND OF POWER FOR THIS LOW OF A PRICE!

1st things first, as for reciepts on all the parts mentioned in the ad that are not plainly visible (i.e. internal engine components) If they cant come up with any then either use it as a barganing chip since you could be just getting OEM parts claimed as aftermarket, or walk away and find someone else who is selling theirs that has kept good track of their paperwork on their DSM over the years.
Um you could probably find a better deal somewhere else, but probably not as clean I dont know hoenstly. My experience says dont jump on the first DSM you fall in love with because in about 3 months you will be browsing through the classified ads and find one in better condition than yours selling for 1k less. Just a word to the wise. Happy Birthday and welcome to the wonderful world of being a Driver Slash mechanic.
 
From the looks of the ad the person does not know much about the car. I would ask for receipts on all the aftermarket parts you cant physically inspect. The price of the car is way to high. I honestly would not pay anything more than 4,000.

I would keep looking around to try and find a better car. Dont rush into it, remember there is alot more cars for sale than buyers.
 
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