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Pics of 6 bolt short block build up

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TSIfreek

15+ Year Contributor
1,674
17
Dec 14, 2003
cary, Illinois
Here are some pics for you freaks out there who love to see the pics of our motor build ups.
All machine work done by bud and mitch at engintecs in Evanston, illinois.
Bore, hone, line hone mains, deck, crank work, file fit rings, fit piston pins to rods (clearance), balance rotating assembly you name it it was all done. I am very happy with the machine work they did and held the specs I asked for. :thumb:
Ross .030 over pistons, file fit rings were used, scat rods, clevite bearings, and ARP hardware though out.
All I know is I wont break it. Its a little over kill for me but I got a good deal on the parts brand new on the trader and ebay so why not? Spec's are top secret. :laugh:
 

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Most of these pics were the mock up to check the bearing clearances with plasigauge. Royal purple assembly lube was used in the final assembly on all bearings. 30wt non detergent oil was used on the cylinder walls and pistons and rings. 10/40 will be used for breakin and then 10/40 royal purple syn after that.
 

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Very nice looking!

Same setup as me :) Two questions:

1. Where did you order new freeze plugs from?
2. How do you plan to bolt the oil pick up tube to the main cap arp bolt?
 
Any issues with the 2G Pick up as far as functionality? We just put the bracket on and then torqued the ARP's down over it to spec with my motor...
 
half-cocked said:
Isnt that a little tight for off the shelf Ross'?
I desided on .0045 piston to wall clearance to keep the piston slap down and its going to be an everyday street car year round forever not an all out race motor. The wear from the forged pistons will increase the clearance slightly with normal wear so keep that in mind. I am only plaining on running a BR B16g P/C at 18 psi so I can run a litttle tighter since I wount be creating alot of heat from high boost.
I would have set it higher if I was going to be putting a big ass turbo on it with 30 psi but im not. Maybe a PTE 50 trim but thats it. I am only looking for 12.00s out of it. Like I said I wont break it.
 
Thanks for your replys on the oil pick up. I didnt get that far yet. :thumb:
 
TSIfreek said:
I desided on .0045 piston to wall clearance to keep the piston slap down and its going to be an everyday street car year round forever not an all out race motor. The wear from the forged pistons will increase slightly with normal wear so keep that in mind. I am only plaining on running a BR B16g P/C at 18 psi so I can run a litttle tighter since I wount be creating alot of heat from high boost.
I would have set it higher if I was going to be putting a big ass turbo on it with 30 psi but im not. Maybe a PTE 50 trim but thats it. I am only looking for 12.00s out of it. Like I said I wont break it.

Your end gap seems too small ....
 
1fast97gsx said:
Your end gap seems too small ....
Techs at ross dont seem to think so. I have heard of guys that run as tight as .004 wall clearance with ross pistons. There is no MAJIC number to go by for EVERY engine.
Thats why some motors put out more power than others with the same components.
 
Well I am also running ross pistons and they told me to run about .024 endgap. I'd rather go a little loose than too tight anyways, but .024 was the magic number they told me.
 
I was refering to piston to wall clearance. Anyway you may have oil blow buy with gaps that big on a street car. That is a good gap to set a race only engine to with 26+ psi of boost. Just depends on your aplication. I also got my numbers from ross tec as well.
 
1fast97gsx said:
Well I am also running ross pistons and they told me to run about .024 endgap. I'd rather go a little loose than too tight anyways, but .024 was the magic number they told me.


and your motor lasted 1500 miles and was burning oil.....hmmm..... maybee if your quit playin johnny know's everything about buildin a motor and learned why you want endgaps and studied some engine building books you would know why he only wnats .019, but hey i have a 1g what do i know?
 
Why do they recommend 20w-50 for break in? Is it to help seat the rings or what? Seems like it would be too thick for main and rod bearings and would possibly be too thick for oil control rings causing more oil consumption?...
 
20w50 oil is recomended I believe because the oil doesnt drain off as quickly as a 10/30. The piston rings seating is the most important part of breaking the motor in properly. 20/50 clings better and provides better lube with more metal particals in the oil during brake in. It keeps the metal particals more in suspension before reching the filter to get rid of them. Just my thery
 
i used cheap 5w30 for my break in, i let it idle while bliping the throttle for 10 min then let it cool, started it back up and proceded to beat the snot out of it for 20 min, compression is 195psi on all 4 with no oil burning at all. i think that method worked :D
 
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