Perrin BOV?

[rocketrapson]

I'm working on saving some money up to swap out my stock BOV and I've been looking around a lot at different companies. I want to keep it recirculated, can any BOV be recirced? Of the ones I've looked at, GReddy, Hks and Perrin, Perrin seems to be the best for the money. According to what I've read about the Perrin it can hold almost an unlimited amount of boost because of how it is designed.

My main questions,

Can any BOV be recirced?

Does anyone have any experience with the Perrin BOV?

Perrin BOV

 

[polarmoment]

If you're looking to save money, get a stock MR2 valve. It's a pull-type valve (all the other pull-type valves on the market are loosely based copies of it, actually). Boost holds it shut, so it cannot leak. It's also operated by pressure differential, rather than vacuum. When pressure in the intake manifold falls, the valve opens. It does a bypass valve's job of reducing intake noise very, very well.

 

[rocketrapson]

Money won't be an issue for me much longer. I'm getting medically discharged from the army with 40% disability. So I will probably go for the Perrin. Thank you for the run down on how it actually operates. Definitely better the the others I have been looking at. I'm going to be pairing it up to the punishment racing turbo kit with the pte 6466 turbo, PR Downpipe,thermal r&d exhaust, injen intake, weapon r intake manifold, bbk throttle body, 550 cc fuel injectors and walbro 255 fuel pump

 

[RadDsm]

Why such small injectors, not planning on more than ~12 pounds of boost?

 

[Bud92gsx]

Perrin,Do you own a Suburu?

 

[rocketrapson]

Why such small injectors, not planning on more than ~12 pounds of boost?

I never put much thought in to boost numbers. I now see the error of my ways, . Anyway I'd like to shoot for around 500-600 horse, should I up it to 1000cc injectors? Will that fuel pump be enough for 1000 cc

Perrin,Do you own a Suburu?

Nah, my 98 gsx. I know Perrin is popular between subaru and Evos. From what I've read about the different BOVs I have been looking through, the Perrin is one of the top contenders, I really like the way it is designed compared to the GReddy and hks BOVs

 

[SPYDERGSTTUNER]

I never put much thought in to boost numbers. I now see the error of my ways, . Anyway I'd like to shoot for around 500-600 horse, should I up it to 1000cc injectors? Will that fuel pump be enough for 1000 cc

A 255 lph won't be enough for 500-600 whp, upper 400's is what that pump is capable of if I remember correctly. All these upgrades you wanna do to your car but you don't mention any sort of tuning device, no drive train upgrades, and no suspension either. 5-600 HP is no joke and just slapping on a big turbo,bigger injectors,exhaust,bov,fpr,fmi, etc won't do you a bit of good without any tuning. I suggest you do a bit of research before setting such a high goal. I'm not trying to be a prick I'm just letting you know building such a high HP dsm is very doable but is gonna get expensive, you are need alot more knowlege and be ready to break shit left and right.

 

[rocketrapson]

I apologise, I actually need to update my build log since some of the parts I'm planning to use have changed. As far as suspension I will probably use the Tein Flex Damper system, I had a thread about my suspension set-up and after looking at all my options for it I've decided on the Tein just for the simplicity that its a prebuilt coil-over system. I dont mind the rougher ride.

I found a site that sells Performance Auto Transmissions which I plan on getting, and a shift box to go with it. Brembo Big Brake kit for the front, Stop-Tech Cryo Stop drilled rotors on the rear, I haven't stumbled apon any upgraded axles yet (it would be awesome if someone could point me in the right direction), NRG FPR, Apexi turbo timer, Blitz Boost controller. I think I've just about hit on everything except upgrading the internals and ARP head studs. Just noticed I overlooked the Mishimoto Radiator and slimline fans and the PR intercooler kit.

I am doing all the research I can to learn about this gem I snagged up a few months ago, I don't want to Half-ass this project like i did with my Focus and Neon. I definitely know a lot more now than I did when I first bought the GSX.

Found the link to that transmission, http://www.importperformancetrans.c...-w4a33-awd-performance-transmission-4212.html

 

[polarmoment]

From what I've read about the different BOVs I have been looking through, the Perrin is one of the top contenders,

If I can ask, contenders in what way? What makes one valve better than the others?

Since BOVs do, in fact, cost significant turbo response between shifts, do some valves allow less crappy response than others?

The fastest setup is no valve at all- which has been documented fact since the 1980s. Lets ignore the "it kills turbos" portion of the debate for the time being. If people consider BOVs to be performance devices, how do they quantify one valve making the car spool less slowly vs another? Or is it just about the potential to leak?

I'm asking as someone who hasn't used a BOV in 4 years- and wouldn't go back to using one if someone paid me. I guess I'm just trying to figure out how the other half lives...

 

[rocketrapson]

From what I can tell, it's all in the design. As you stated earlier with the BOV I am going to be getting, it is a pull type which the boost holds it shut making it so it won't leak, which from what i can gather means no compressor surge. Someone please correct me if I got that wrong.

I really don't know the different designs, but from what I have read some of the others you need to swap springs and add washers in order to hold higher boost numbers. At one point I thought all BOVs were made the same way, until I started really looking into them. I didn't even know the Perrin design was called a pull type.

I wasn't even aware you could run a turbo system without a BOV.

I meant contenders as in which BOV I was going to choose

 

[WES_393]

Boost holds it shut, so it cannot leak. It's also operated by pressure differential, rather than vacuum. When pressure in the intake manifold falls, the valve opens.

While true, this is really misleading. A typical BOV does in fact work off pressure differences between the intake manifold and charge pipe. The only difference is the use of a spring to help regulate the valve. But only at times when the valve shouldn't open anyways. Yes, there are flaws to the design such as weak springs and crappy diaphragms. But this can usually be avoided by using quality BOV's. I'm personally running the knock-off Type-S from Punishment and it holds 25psi like a rock.

When you read about true "compressor surge", it's something that happens when a turbo is pushing more air than the intake system can flow, causing the turbo to surge at full speed. This is much different than the "surge" caused by a malfunctioning BOV. While I agree that it isn't nearly as damaging, especially at very low boost levels, I believe BOV's were used for much more than noise control.

So don't go spending $500 on a valve that works just as well as a $40 valve. But I also wouldn't go and weld the flange shut based on a theory.

 

[007jimmy]

If you are looking for something good, pick up a TiAL BOV...

 

[polarmoment]

While true, this is really misleading. A typical BOV does in fact work off pressure differences between the intake manifold and charge pipe.

It's not misleading at all if you actually understand how the valve works, as designed by yamaha.

The valve does not operate on pressure between manifold and charge pipe. It operates on a pressure differential created by a vacuum transfer valve. It allows pressure into both chambers at the same rate, but allows pressure out of the top chamber more quickly than the bottom chamber, causing the valve to open as soon as pressure in the manifold falls. It will open long before the manifold itself reaches vacuum if you lift the throttle quickly enough. There is only ever a few psi difference between the two chambers, as they are fed by the same pressure source. It's kind of funny that 20+ years later, it's still a better design than most everything on the market...

I wasn't even aware you could run a turbo system without a BOV.

F1 cars ran 40+ psi of boost for the duration of entire races without them (and 70+psi in qualifying). LeMans and IMSA GTP cars typically ran in the 20-30psi range for 24 hour races without them, taking more abuse in a race like LeMans or Daytona than our turbos will ever have to deal with on the street. They did it because using a compressor bypass valve would cost them several seconds per lap. If longevity were really any concern to them at all, any intelligent engineer would gladly install a $50 part to ensure their cars made it to the end of the race.

But I also wouldn't go and weld the flange shut based on a theory.

I made the decision based on quite a bit of research, evaluation of evidence (and lack thereof), and experimentation. Years later, I stand by that decision. You can read a couple very long posts that I've made detailing my findings simply by searching my posts if you're interested.

I'll never tell anyone to remove theirs, but I will gladly tell people to do the research, evaluate the evidence (not wikipedia articles, misdiagnosed failures and statements by companies selling them) and make their own decisions.

Whatever they decide, as long as it's an educated decision, is good enough for me. I'll also still happily change my mind in light of new evidence.