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mitsuclipsegsx

15+ Year Contributor
2,561
8
Apr 5, 2004
Dover plains, New York
I am having trouble finding a hose to recir my bov. I have been through 3 pipes and still flutters, and its NOT the setting on the bov casue when i tried vented it sounded great, i spent 45 dollars so far and i dont know what to do.Maybe i can have someone reweld the bov return on the intake in a different postion.

pic 1,2,3 is a radiator hose seemed like its not crimbed but it flutters

pic 4 i thought would help casue it can bend but no.

pic 5 worked when i first installed everything in June by shortly after no.

So what do you guys use, pic would be great

thanks
 
You went through all the trouble of buying a good short route FMIC kit and you're still using that greddy peice of garbage and not a TiAl/MAFT setup?

In all honesty, your BOV is probably the problem, not the recirc tube.
 
I was gonna get the maft now but its to late i asked sbr extreme psi if i could trade pipes and cash and they said no.
And i bough the kit from a buddy it had the greddy flange and non maft, had like 30 miles on it and got it for 700 couldnt pass that up. And how could it be the bov, did you read what i wrote, i said when i run vented it sounds great, so it must be the pipes.
 
If I were you I would just tka ethe pipe to a muffler shoo and have them turn the flange a little. Then you could rotate the intake pipe so it leans toards the bov outlet better. That should let you run a straighter hose if you think the lack of flow is causing the fluttering.
 
oH your saying turn the flange on the ic pipe,good idea, i was gonna do that to my fp intake, but your idea might be easier.
 
mitsuclipsegsx said:
oH your saying turn the flange on the ic pipe,good idea, i was gonna do that to my fp intake, but your idea might be easier.


Correct

If the pipe is steel, than any muffler shop could do it. Rotating the flange ang the intake pipe would straighten out that hose a lot. Its worth a shop since rewedling the flange would be really cheap.
 
Boosted98gsx said:
You went through all the trouble of buying a good short route FMIC kit and you're still using that greddy peice of garbage and not a TiAl/MAFT setup?

In all honesty, your BOV is probably the problem, not the recirc tube.


People with glass house's shouldn't through stone's :notgood:

Whats so good about the gm maf anyway? so you can vent the BOV? and i know your not going to come back with you get a good tune with it because god knows thats not true, unless you use DSMlink in witch case with all the crap you bought to run a maf dsmlink and your super-du-per bov id rather get the ems with a MAP for a small price more.

As for mitsuclipsegsx problem, I could see it being a problem getting the air to make such tight turns freely, nanokpsi might be right on the money with this one.:rocks: :rocks:
 
mitsuclipsegsx said:
I am having trouble finding a hose to recir my bov. I have been through 3 pipes and still flutters, and its NOT the setting on the bov casue when i tried vented it sounded great, i spent 45 dollars so far and i dont know what to do.Maybe i can have someone reweld the bov return on the intake in a different postion.

pic 1,2,3 is a radiator hose seemed like its not crimbed but it flutters

pic 4 i thought would help casue it can bend but no.

pic 5 worked when i first installed everything in June by shortly after no.

So what do you guys use, pic would be great

thanks


I have a xs power fmic with short route piping. After trying to fabricate a pipe to recirculate I took a vaccum cleaner hose and used that. I've been running like that for a while now. No leaks or the hose blowing off. Its a cheap and easy fix. No one will even know unless you tell them.:)
 
no, I'm sorry my digital camra is broken. Try it. It will work. THe hose is bendable plus it doesn't crimp up. Also if you like loud blow off valves it increased the sound going to it than the factory recirculation pipe.
 
I have an SS Autochrome FMIC, and my recirc line looked a lot worse than yours. Rather than pay out the ass for someone willing to weld stainless steel (most exhaust shops can't) I just cut a section out of the pipe for a GM MAF. You don't need the special pipes for it. Of course I have ECU+, which can do the translation without a MAF-T, but I hear the new version of link will have this capability also.
 
Irrational said:
People with glass house's shouldn't through stone's :notgood:

And what does this mean? I run a properly setup tuning system, and there is no apostrophe for plural nouns...

Whats so good about the gm maf anyway? so you can vent the BOV? and i know your not going to come back with you get a good tune with it because god knows thats not true, unless you use DSMlink in witch case with all the crap you bought to run a maf dsmlink and your super-du-per bov id rather get the ems with a MAP for a small price more.

Because it flows more than your standard 2g MAF, and can be tuned to read more accurately when used in conjunction with a MAP sensor and DSMlink's BoostEst feature. Yea, you can get AEM or Haltech for a small price more, but have fun getting those fuel maps adjusted to where you can drive the thing around w/o much headache and good gas milage, while dsmlink just adjusts out fuel and uses your stock fuel trims for closed loop operation rather than having to tune a poor "base" map that AEM/Haltech gives you to work with.
 
I run the XS short route and I use the stock recirc tube and a Greddy Type-S without a problem. I'll try to get a pic for you.
 
donmagicjuan said:
I have an SS Autochrome FMIC, and my recirc line looked a lot worse than yours. Rather than pay out the ass for someone willing to weld stainless steel (most exhaust shops can't) I just cut a section out of the pipe for a GM MAF. You don't need the special pipes for it. Of course I have ECU+, which can do the translation without a MAF-T, but I hear the new version of link will have this capability also.


So all i have to do to run a gm maft is cut the pipe and thats it?
 
You should also get a bead put around the ends of the pipes to prevent the couplers from popping off, but pretty much. Of course, you'd have to be running the new version of DSMlink when it comes out that will support the translation of the MAF signal in order for it to be usable. If you're running version 2 or whatever is out now, you wouldn't be able to use it without the MAF-T.
 
Your problem is your BOV. Try a 1g BOV. The s-shape rubber hose you have looks great. Just as long as the air is getting in, it doesn't matter.

I am attaching photos of my old setup. Notice how ridiculous the recirc setup is. I used a 1g BOV, it was perfectly fine for all my turbos up to a 60-1. I used 1" PVC for the 90's and 45's. Take a walk around HomeDepot, you'll see them.
 

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get two 2.5" to 3" reducers, a gm 3" maf and a maft, and call it a day.
 
Stapl3 said:
MAFT and more expensive BOV is a fcuking lame answer to his problem.
I appreciate your insight, but I think your suggestion of replacing the valve with a 1G BOV is equally "lame." Did you see the part where he said it works fine when it's vented? First generation BOVs have certainly proven themselves, but perhaps you could explain why you feel he needs one to cure this particular problem. Everyone here is trying to honestly help the OP, so please refrain from attacking other people's ideas.
 
His problem is a fluttering BOV, so the solution posted is a 300 dollar MAFT setup, modified IC piping, and a 200+ dollar BOV. He doesn't need a new MAF sensor, a tuning device to control that, modified piping, and the top of the line BOV/flange.

You can fix a problem with a brain and not a wallet. Must be a 2g owner mentality or something.

On a side note, instead of buying 500+ dollars worth of parts to "fix" this problem, you could buy an entire 1g for 500+ dollars and swap the BOVs.
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Actually, I never suggested that a GM MAF was the best or most cost effective solution to the problem, nor did anyone else. However, the OP expressed an interest in running this setup in post #3, so I suggested a way for him to do it without buying new IC pipes. If my "mentality" is flawed in that, then so be it.

I'm still interested in hearing your logic behind recommending a 1G BOV. So far you've offered more insults than helpful suggestions in this thread.
 
I was making a stab at 2g's, but that's ok. Don't get me wrong, I've owned a 2g awd since 2001 and love it, but 1g's are far far better to mod. I can't really think of any advantages honestly aside of cosmetics maybe.

I say use a 1g bov not because it is cheap, but because it is a proven working bov. No shims, no springs, washers, whatever. It just goes on and works. When it comes to BOVs, I think of the 1g bov as the control and everything else the variable.

donjuan, don't take my comments personally. None are directed at you.
 
enough bickering though, if he doesn't want to spend the money, he can get an air compressor (buy and return or borrow), hook it up to his bov and pressurize it until it opens, to get an idea of the characteristics.

(Im talking, pressurize the intake system with the bov line disconnected, pressurize the bov line, that kind of stuff)

The next step for me would be to completely disassemble the bov and see whats going on inside and if anything looks like it would be causing it to fail.

but Im on the 1g bov bandwagon as well, since you can't really knock our bov :rocks:
 
Stapl3,

Thank you for the explanation of where you're coming from. Sometimes it can be very difficult to understand exactly how someone is trying to come across simply by the words in his post. I just saw a potential for this thread to get out of hand, and I didn't want to see that happen. It would be a shame if the thread were locked before the OP heard everyone's input.

I'm still not convinced that he needs a different BOV, but I think the picture of your setup is very helpful should he choose to keep a recirculated valve. Very original. :thumb:
 
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