Paid for a Tune

[Anthony Yacullo]

Had some work done to my car, exhaust, turbo, and a tune. Happy with the work but I feel like the car wasn't tuned. When I open up link I see now adjustments to fuel trims, and MAF comp. Just wondering if theres a way to tell if I got a tune.

 

[SNAKE_15]

Post a log.

 

[Anthony Yacullo]

Post a log.

I did the little adjustments to the MAF COMP.

 

[c2ypt1c]

Yeah, looks like he ran the TPS adjust tool and that's about it. Oh and don't forget the open loop thresholds haha...ten bucks he says he forgot to copy to ecu.

edit: btw, your iscposition is zero, gotta tighten that BISS screw so it sits around 30-32 at idle

 

[jared98gst]

what turbo?
if that's all the work done and its just a 16g or equivilant size at wastegate pressure, (or below 21 psi, that's the highest I ever went on 450s.) prob didn't make any changes

 

[Anthony Yacullo]

Yeah, looks like he ran the TPS adjust tool and that's about it. Oh and don't forget the open loop thresholds haha...ten bucks he says he forgot to copy to ecu.

edit: btw, your iscposition is zero, gotta tighten that BISS screw so it sits around 30-32 at idle

thanks for the advice new to link its awesome.

Yes its a s16g, didn't have a wideband he said he could put one on for tuning. I thought I have him my hallman to put on but got lost in a box(its on now). Said he could tune for 100$.....


edit: where do I find isc position in link?

 

[jared98gst]

small 16g only hooked up to wastgate and an exhaust upgrade being the only thing done, id go get your money back for the "tune"

 

[c2ypt1c]

edit: where do I find isc position in link?

It's an item on the graph. Check out jafro's awesome vid @ 2:17:

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[SNAKE_15]

Your knock sensor trigger is also set all the way to 7800rpm. I would bring that around 3000 and increase the tps to 20% to also trigger knock at that point. Your isc needs to be 30 like stated above and your airflow per rev seems too low. Looks like not much done to consider this as a "tune". I would get my money back. All he really did was do a tps adjust in which he did incorrectly. Your suppose to set your isc correctly first and tps volts before messing with the tps adjust. Also, rest your open loop thresholds to stock. You basically could've done what the "tuner" did by watching the ecmlink tutorials.

 

[Anthony Yacullo]

Your knock sensor trigger is also set all the way to 7800rpm. I would bring that around 3000 and increase the tps to 20% to also trigger knock at that point. Your isc needs to be 30 like stated above and your airflow per rev seems too low. Looks like not much done to consider this as a "tune". I would get my money back. All he really did was do a tps adjust in which he did incorrectly. Your suppose to set your isc correctly first and tps volts before messing with the tps adjust. Also, rest your open loop thresholds to stock. You basically could've done what the "tuner" did by watching the ecmlink tutorials.

haha ya, maybe he didn't save to the ecu. I was watching the ecm link tutorials and was fiddling with it today. I probally did it incorrecterly even tho I followed the demos on ecmlink.com thanks for the advice!

 

[SNAKE_15]

haha ya, maybe he didn't save to the ecu. I was watching the ecm link tutorials and was fiddling with it today. I probally did it incorrecterly even tho I followed the demos on ecmlink.com thanks for the advice!

No problem. If I were you, I'd reset the tps adjust to stock before setting your tps and isc. Your tps should be at 63v and to set your isc to 30, you need to click the diagnostic pin box under the "misc" tab before adjusting your biss screw. When I did mine I had to reset my battery before adjusting biss because my isc wouldn't move below 65. Reconnecting my battery resetted my isc settings so it let me move it to 30. Once you get it to 30, uncheck the diagnostic pin box.

 

[lil corb]

No problem. If I were you, I'd reset the tps adjust to stock before setting your tps and isc. Your tps should be at 63v and to set your isc to 30, you need to click the diagnostic pin box under the "misc" tab before adjusting your biss screw. When I did mine I had to reset my battery before adjusting biss because my isc wouldn't move below 65. Reconnecting my battery resetted my isc settings so it let me move it to 30. Once you get it to 30, uncheck the diagnostic pin box.

I don't recall having to check the diagnostic pin before setting the ISC position to 30. As a matter of fact I believe you check that pin or ground it physically when you are manually setting your idle via the BISS. If you set ECMLink to the desired target RPM you don't have to check that box to reach the 30 on the ISC position. You do have to have a 0% throttle position for the volts to see .63 so make sure you log throttle position. The high volts at 100% throttle should be anywhere above 4.9 I believe. Also you if you need to adjust the throttle position there is an calibration video on the ecmlink website.

 

[MindBlowin03]

Just looking at the idle section of the log, I would make a few small adjustments.

1) Screw in your BISS screw slowly and watch your ISCPosition. Adjust until it's reading ~30. Sometimes this can take a little time so be patient.
2) Your CombinedFT is a little lean and the ECU is adding ~6% to keep it within check. I would add a little injector deadtime and watch that number. You want to get near 0%.
3) Set your Knock Sensor Control to ~3000 RPMs.
4) Reset your Open Loop Threasholds.

Other than that things like good. Being mostly stock it's no surprise.