2G P1400 CEL 2g '96 Talon Auto

[1slowhatch]

Finally got this car running and have been sorting out several problems. It runs and drives now, except that I had a CEL pop up the other day.. P1400. I've read that it can be cause by a bad MDP sensor, but more commonly a boost leak?? I have double checked intercooler plumbing, new throttle body shaft seals, new injector seals, etc. I think that the factory BOV is leaking earlier than it should. I can foot brake the car, and build some boost on the factory gauge, but then I hear what sounds like a large boost leak (air whooshing) noise near the BOV. Could it be it is leaking at lower than stock boost pressure and causing the light? The car drives ok, except at full throttle, mid RPM is starting to "buck".

 

[1slowhatch]

I replaced the stock plastic bov with a metal Evo 8 bov... no difference. It might actually be worse now. What could be going on? A boost leak somewhere else? Had a fuel trim code along with the P1400. Now it bucks, surges under boost.

 

[second_amendment]

check if your clamps are tight, i know it sounds dumb but it has happened to me, also inspect all the rubber housed and had plastic intercooler pipes could be one is buster.

 

[1slowhatch]

Did a boost leak test today. The "rubber bushing" in the upper factory plastic intercooler pipe was busted. I repaired it with a 2" silicone coupler cut as a bushing. Apparently I keep blowing off a small vacuum line off the intake manifold. These do not have clamps from the factory. Is this a common problem, should I be using zip ties or clamps on them!?!?

 

[PlanZero]

Unplug the sensor and see if there's a difference. Pull it out and clean the carbon off of it and if it still persists go to the junkyard and grab a bunch off galants, lancers, etc before you waste money on new parts. All of my emissions/ egr equipment is deleted but I think the map and egr are interrelated.
Zip tie your lines.

 

[second_amendment]

that mean pressure is not being released and blowing off your hose, but again those rubber hoses get toasted and and don't make a good fit around the nipples. go to your local auto parts store and ask them for the nylon or rubber hoses for 10psi, they sell it by the ft.

 

[AntmanAndLittleDi]

We had the same problem. Just replace all the rubber hoses with new, it's silly cheap by the foot. We did buy the thick wall hose, make sure the inside opening stays the same. After that it's fine if you still need to clamp the hose, we did. Get new hose clamps too, old ones will stretch after clamping & loosening a few times and may crack. We found t-bolt clamps for a great price at a Bumper to Bumper store. They didn't have the rubber protector like the name brand ones, but a few rounds of electrical tape does the same thing. After that we messed with the throttle position sensor and got it to smooth out. We later found out the tps was shot & replaced it too.

 

[1slowhatch]

We had the same problem. Just replace all the rubber hoses with new, it's silly cheap by the foot. We did buy the thick wall hose, make sure the inside opening stays the same. After that it's fine if you still need to clamp the hose, we did. Get new hose clamps too, old ones will stretch after clamping & loosening a few times and may crack. We found t-bolt clamps for a great price at a Bumper to Bumper store. They didn't have the rubber protector like the name brand ones, but a few rounds of electrical tape does the same thing. After that we messed with the throttle position sensor and got it to smooth out. We later found out the tps was shot & replaced it too.

I think I've got this fixed. I zip tied as many of the vacuum lines as I could get to. They seem to be staying together on 15 psi+. My car has an evo 8 bov, which seems to have no problem holding 20 psi.

 

[AntmanAndLittleDi]

Awesome! Have fun man