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overheating still after new HG, WP, Thermostat, radiator, hoses, etc...!!! HELP me!!

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myblack98gst

15+ Year Contributor
578
1
Jun 22, 2003
Elizabethtown, Kentucky
this is a 93 talon with a 6 bolt swap. The car has a tubular manifold, 50 trim, FMIC. still has A/C etc..

okay a friend of mine brought me a car that he drove very hot for quite a long time. The car would stay normal then out of no where start heating up like crazy.



I replaced the head (warped), put a mitsu MLS gasket and ARP studs. the deck was fine. I also replaced the water pump, thermostat, radiator cap, and hoses.
Get the car put back together and it was fine but after a couple of minutes of drive time it started overheating again. At this point I assumed the radiator was clogged so he bought a new radiator put that on and it got a little better but still climbed to 215+ (logger output) if it got below 50 mph. So I put a second fan on it ( 1 14" and 1 10" ) and wired them to stay on constant with the key. start it up let it idle for 15 minutes or so and it held a 196.2* so I took it out for a drive under acceleration it gets to 206* and stays. It is about 90* and he was dropped off so he had to take the car. He drove it 28 miles home then nearly 40 miles to work this morning with the gauge staying dead center. He took it to lunch and got stopped at a couple of lights and the temp raised all the way to the first white overheating line.

WTF!?!? why is this car so hot? has anyone had any issues like this.
 
I had this problem when I had a tubular manifold. With a front mount blocking some air and the manifold heat soaking the radiator even Slim Line fans couldn't pull enough cool air to compensate. Did you have this problem before the tubular manifold?
 
it is not my car.. but the car has had that manifold on it for years.. I kinda think between that and the air blockage (a/c condensor) it MAY be his problem.
 
Yeah, 206 isn't horrible. It is probably the manifold heatsoaking the radiator. Try wrapping the manifold and see if that helps. Also, what mix are you running for coolant? (50/50, Water, Water Wetter)
 
Pull the radiator and wash the a/c condenser with a garden hose and a squirt nozzle from the engine bay toward the front bumper.
This will remove most of the bugs and crap that has caked in there over the years prior to the FMIC install.
Probably wouldn't hurt to do the same to the FMIC.
Check base timing and make sure it's set to spec.
Is the car consumming coolant at all, or is it overflowing thru the puke tank?
One other thing too, try and fab up some shrouding for ducting air thru the FMIC and then thru the radiator.
If there are any gaps, air will flow thru the path of least restriction.
One guy on here fabbed up a little air dam that is between the FMIC and his radiator.
Here's the link....
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=224201&highlight=lowered+coolant+temps
Thru innovation like this, you may be able to remedy your partna's problem.
 
he called me back I am fairly certain it is electrical problems.. the gauge will move as he turns.. we are getting a decent electric gauge and seeing what that says. this is starting to annoy the heck out off me. The cars wiring is a hack job since someone installed MSD in it several years back so who knows what is messed up now.
 
welcome to hell buddy!

after installing my fmic i have been fighting this VERY same problem! you guys dont drive around with a logger on at all times? when the neetle starts to get on the hot side your engine temp is something like 230-260 degrees!!!! everywhere i go im ALWAYS logging coolant temps...

-first thing i would try is 1 bottle of water wetter.
-second i would make sure your fans are working correctly
-third i would pull a/c
-fourth you can try what i did in this thread. it helped me drop my coolant temps 6 degrees while driving!http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=224201&highlight=coolant+temps.
-probably should have mentioned this earlier but you can put a in a 180 degree thermostat in and drill a 1/2 hole in it where the little floater thing is at. i dont know what the name of that little thing in the thermostat is called. this wont actually help lower your coolant temps but it will help with how long it takes for your car to warm up leting you get a little closer to your destination without over heating.

hope this info helps
david

edit: i also forgot to mention that the last thing i finally tired to lower my coolant temps was a racing raiator and pulling my a/c. it finally did the trick. i got a koyo racing radiator off ebay for 250 plus 30 shipping. it helps lower the coolant temps faster while driving it harder for the car to get hot while sitting still. if im in stop and go traffic i dont see ANYTHING above 209 in 100 degrees + florida weather. at nite i see as low as 182 cruising...
 
Not too sound like an as$, but would installing a air scoop, similar to the evo, or something similar to the 280ZX's hood scoops help any? I also am having this problem with the car running hot, im gonna go buy some water wetter and run it with some straight water c if that helps any? Also dnheiu did you ever log that water wetter to see if it help lower coolant temps? Im interested it if did anything.
 
all the time man:thumb:. wetter water ushally helps me with being able to get the coolant temps lower while driving and harder for it to climb to its peak. i would say it lowers about 3-4 degrees on my car plus is lubes the water pump! i went from seeing something like 216 at idle to seeing nothing higher then 209 which is fine in my book sitting at idle in HEAVY traffic.

also i belive that a hood scoop would help ALOT. i have been thinking about getting one for quite some time now but im afraid im gonna crack my exhaust manifold from the rain or destroy my coolant fans. maybe when i get another car and i can purchase a car cover for it whenever im not driving it but for now i think im gonna pass on it. i really think that if you released the heat from the turbo that it would run at least 5 degrees cooler pluse it would actually draw more air into the engine bay which means less that gets to the raidator...
 
LOL I was thinking the samething, what if i install a scoop and water hits the manifold and cracks it, or something along these lines? Something like a STi's hood scoop would draw air in and not let rain in as well, i think something along these lines would work good, i would just look retarted tho on our cars. I really like the 280ZX scoops, because there angled on such a way they let air in...but when rain hits the hood it will slide off.
 
did you ever check your radiator cap? thats something most people miss because the system wont stay presurized. check out those carbontrix hood vents if you want a hood vent that really works.
 
first off get a temp. gun or a reliable source to check the temp. your gauge, wiring, or temp sensor could be faulty.. if it still overheats here are some things to consider.are you running with your timing advanced? that would deffinitly cause higher temps, you could try to retard it a little to see if it helps,of course you will lose a little performance. whatever works for you. also just some useless info you might want to know, every 1psi of pressure in the cooling system raises the boiling point 10* something else to suggest you could put one fan in front of the radiator pushing air through and the other in the oem position pulling the air through, and of course wrap that manifold,turbo,and dowpipe if you havent yet.
 
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