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1G Overhauled power window, still doesn't track properly--solutions?

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Proven Member
Jul 22, 2020
Queens, New_York
The passenger side window in my '92 Talon TSi hadn't properly opened and closed in years and I kept putting off fixing it. It's not that hard, just kind of annoying with all the clips that tend to snap and break, plastic film with that nasty sticky stuff, risk of shattering the glass, etc. But I finally got to it yesterday and did what I thought was a thorough job, removing the glass and cleaning it thoroughly (and carefully), removing years of accumulated gritty dirt on the sides where it slides in the rubber channels. I also removed the actual channels and cleaned them thoroughly, and while I was at it the mirror assembly as it was filthy.

When I reinstalled everything, after spraying CRC silicone spray inside the channels, the window went up and down again. But as it neared the top it tracked improperly, a few degrees clockwise looking from the outside. The channels eventually set it straight as it hit the top, but clearly something's not right. I could feel some wobble in the regulator bracket that slides up and down and connects to the 2 plastic glass clips. Is there a way to adjust it so it doesn't wobble and tracks properly, via an alignment bolt or such, or is it just worn out after years of use and either needs to be replaced or taken out and fixed properly (and if so how?)?

Same thing happens on the driver's side window. It's actually been an issue since not that long after I bought the car new many many years ago, and I just sort of lived with it so long as the window did open and close. Just wondering if there's a known way to fix this or I just have to live with it.

Btw I'm about to embark upon what I hope is the final phase of my several years-long restoration project on the car. I intend to completely overhaul the intake and exhaust, replacing gaskets, o-rings & hoses, cleaning up the throttle and IAC, manifolds, turbo, hangers, heat shields, tailpipe, etc., and painting it with heat-grade KBS (somewhat cheaper version of POR-15).

I'll also be replacing the inner front CV axle boots (I recently replaced the outers) and checking on work that I've already done to see if everything's ok or needs some tweaking, plus dealing with some minor issues like a strange high-pitched sound near the front left side when I come to a stop, and a small leak from the trans that's probably due to improperly applied RTV. And some final derusting and painting of odd parts here and there.
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