Options for N/T Spyder

[Rubent70]

I know this is a subject thats been beaten to death, but I'm having a hell of a time trying to find the info i need.

So heres my issue.
The car currently has a bone stock 4G64, however it will need a rebuild! (200k miles)
I plan on building the 4G64/63 hybrid but from what info I've found it will be a complete PITA sourcing the parts if the block has to be bored.
Should i just drop a 4G63 or try sourcing all the parts for the hybrid build?
Mind you I am pretty sure the cylinders will have to be bored, so is it still worth pursing the hybrid build?
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Ruben

 

[Rubent70]

Honestly no clue on which holes need to be plugged.
The way I was planning on doing it was just laying them next to one other and plugging away at the 63until it mirrored the 64 .
But I'm still contemplating buying a donor gst or gst spyder to swap the head, grab the knock sensor and injector resistor packs, stock manifolds, intercooler, a spare tranny, ECU and a 63 block to build. Once you add it all up, seems cheaper to just pick up a non running donor then to source the parts separately.

 

[Spyder Sean]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

. This should help ya

 

[Rubent70]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

. This should help ya

Sweet!
Thanks man. I'm planning on picking up a head in the next few weeks, just need to find a clean one.

 

[WES_393]

Very true on the rods. The crank is sketchy with that much horse power thought. Cause it can handle about 7.5k Rpms which kinda worts me

The crankshaft isn't the weak point. The factory crankshafts (4g63 and 4g64) are arguably the strongest crank available for our cars. The issue with the 4g64 is piston speed and rod angle. A 4g64 at 8,000rpm has a piston speed of 87.5 feet/second. That's roughly the same piston speed as 2.0 4g63 at over 9,000rpm. The rod angle is also considerably higher which puts even more stress on the piston. Regardless of how heavily you build the 4g64, the "safe" rev limit is considered to be 8-8.5k rpm. And even that's a stretch.

You can read more about it here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...stroker-destroker-long-rod-engine-basics.html

Honestly I think it's personal preference for steel or aluminum rods. Although the aluminum rods will be lighter I think by about 100g for the set.

Aluminum rods are extremely lightweight for high engine speed. They are also extremely expensive and typically wear out very quickly. Eagle rods are about 100g lighter than stock, very reasonably priced, and more than enough for 99% of DSMs.

As for the head discussion, I don't see any point in building the head before you even decided on a turbo. The head should be built to match the rest of the setup. If you have a 16g turbo, then installing 288 cams, dual beehive springs, 1mm oversized valves, and a Magnus SMIM is going to absolutely suck.

 

[Rubent70]

As for the head discussion, I don't see any point in building the head before you even decided on a turbo. The head should be built to match the rest of the setup. If you have a 16g turbo, then installing 288 cams, dual beehive springs, 1mm oversized valves, and a Magnus SMIM is going to absolutely suck.

The turbo I plan on running is a holset hx35 or hx40 between 20-25 psi
I have a goal of 500whp in mind because I'd like to do the AWD swap once I finish the build. I was looking at 272 cams and the 1mm oversized valves. Realistically this will be a DD so rev limit isn't important to me, I'm fine with a limit of 7-7.5k.
With these goals in mind are the the 272's adaquate or will I need the 288's?

Thanks WES_393 you've been a great help to me in a few different threads.

 

[Spyder Sean]

I'm actually wanting to run the same 40 turbo but lookingbfor 600 to 700 whp. Do you guys think the h beam eagle rods and forged 86.5mm pistons would be good enough for the bottom. Remind you not going to beat it up everyday.