Options for N/T Spyder

[Rubent70]

I know this is a subject thats been beaten to death, but I'm having a hell of a time trying to find the info i need.

So heres my issue.
The car currently has a bone stock 4G64, however it will need a rebuild! (200k miles)
I plan on building the 4G64/63 hybrid but from what info I've found it will be a complete PITA sourcing the parts if the block has to be bored.
Should i just drop a 4G63 or try sourcing all the parts for the hybrid build?
Mind you I am pretty sure the cylinders will have to be bored, so is it still worth pursing the hybrid build?
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Ruben

 

[GPTourer]

GPTourer
Thanks for all the guidance.
The pistons i want to order have a CR of 8.5 with the 63 head is this a decent CR for a DD?

Yes it is. You're welcome, good luck.

 

[honda_burner]

A 2g 4g63 stock compression ratio is 8.5:1, an evo is 8.8:1. I would say as long as you dont cross over the 9.0:1 ratio you would be fine in regards to compression and a turbo. Although, higher compression has been done on a turbo motor, you will have to run less boost and are more likely to break things.

 

[Rubent70]

Thanks for all the help guys I had no clue about compression ratios until now and did a little research on google as well . I really appreciate all the help I'm getting from this community I'd be dead in the water without any help .

 

[Rubent70]

I figured this would be as good a place as any to ask another question.
I have an Ebay turbo and have done a lot of research and generally they are all horror stories.
The one good thing i found out was that supposedly the housing actually flows better than some comparable housings.
I was wondering if anyone one here has the same turbo and if so, what turbines may fit in the housing.
I have two pics in my gallery of the turbo and i can provided measurements tonight when i get home.
For a general idea the inlet measures at 2.5in and the exhaust outlet measures 3in.

Just looking for ideas if not i have no problem letting the turbo sit in the garage .
Thanks in advance.

 

[SlowSpyder]

If you want to get better springs for the sohc head, use beehive springs for the 2v 4.6l v8 ford mod motor.

 

[Spyder Sean]

You guys are Awsome actually answering a lot of my questions. I'm going to turbo I just found out I had bent valves in my head so I'm going to swap to the 63 head and yes I'm going to boosts. Just need ideas. Everybody where I live is Honda this Honda that I'm Soo tired of it they talk shit about the mitso motors and cars.i want to build a car to shit on them . So right now I have a stock 64 block and a head I'm not using. My whole engine bay is striped down there is a pic of it painted black. But need to know what I should do with the head when I buy it Friday if there is one on the classifieds to purchase. Message me if you want to with ideas too.

 

[Rubent70]

If you want to get better springs for the sohc head, use beehive springs for the 2v 4.6l v8 ford mod motor.

I own a 5.4 will they fit as well?

 

[SlowSpyder]

Ill get you a part number when I get home from work. Just remember, they must be beehive springs so that the top I.d. Works with the stock retainers. The ones I'm using are from PAC racing and from my understanding they make valve springs for a lot of companies

 

[Rubent70]

Awesome thanks SlowSpyder I appreciate it.

 

[SlowSpyder]

No worries, I went through the sametime when I turboed and built my motor. When I did the build there was only a couple of people who actually did the build and those guys took the time to answer my questions. Just returning the help.

 

[Spyder Sean]

Any ideas on what I should do first to this head when I get it. For like bores and pistons I'm soo lost with it. I need help .

 

[spyderdrifter]

Wish I could be doing this right now. Been searching for a N/T spyder block for my 2.1 build plans.

 

[Spyder Sean]

I have a n/t head off a 2.4 l I'm getting rid of.

 

[SlowSpyder]

Heres the part number from pac racing for the beehive springs SKU: PAC1213-16
PAC-1213 Set of 16. If you choose to stick with the sohc head then just do a small port polish, a camshaft from rpw with springs and use an aem cam gear and call it a day. If you come across a 4g63 then by all means build the dohc head.

As for the block, the rods are the same as the turbo so take your pick on which rods you want to use. Fyi im using eagle h beams for the 4g63. Im running a 100mm chromoly crank from eagle and 87mm wiseco pistons(.020 over)

 

[Spyder Sean]

I might do the same thing.

 

[Rubent70]

So far these are the parts that im looking to purchase for the bottom end

Manley Pistons 8.5 C.R. (Part number 613005C-4)
Brian Crower Rods (Part number BC6110)
Stock crank.

Sean this is what I plan on running for my bottom end.

 

[Spyder Sean]

Ya I seen that I'm just trying to figure out if I need a 6 bolt or 7 bolt head. I'm a Kolb at all this soobsorry for all the questions. I hope you don't mind I just figured I'd add to your post.

 

[Rubent70]

No worries I'm here to learn as well. If I'm not mistaken I believe it has to be a 7bolt from what I've read.

 

[Spyder Sean]

Ya I'm buying a head Friday then I'm buying a Smim intake

 

[Spyder Sean]

Quick question myself. How would I build my block so my motor will push 700 whp. Plan on running a th 40 turbo on the hybrid but don't know where to even begin looking on how to build the head or block. Or maybe a good setup fo my totaling assembly.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Get ALL forged parts... Since you got a power goal, you need to decide on a goal for that power to accomplish, i.e.... what kind of track/road duty will it be seeing. You'll need to balance between power and part dependability.

 

[Rubent70]

Quick question myself. How would I build my block so my motor will push 700 whp. Plan on running a th 40 turbo on the hybrid but don't know where to even begin looking on how to build the head or block. Or maybe a good setup fo my totaling assembly.

I listed some forged pistons and rods a few post above you. They should be able to handle your goal of 700, maybe just upgrade the rods.
After searching and looking at the build I've decided to shot for a goal 500 whp.
And the current internals I have in mind should be more than able to handle that goal.
Are you looking to make it a track car because 700 doesn't seem very streetable IMO considering the limited options on clutches that will handle that kind of power.

 

[Spyder Sean]

I listed some forged pistons and rods a few post above you. They should be able to handle your goal of 700, maybe just upgrade the rods.
After searching and looking at the build I've decided to shot for a goal 500 whp.
And the current internals I have in mind should be more than able to handle that goal.
Are you looking to make it a track car because 700 doesn't seem very streetable IMO considering the limited options on clutches that will handle that kind of power.

On the weekends yes a track car. But probably street there are a bunch of Hondas driving around pushing 5 to 500 whp and I'd like to beat them with a dsm. And you said the parts above would be good to push that limit in the hybrid.

^^^ too add to this I'm not going to be rapping the $### out of it either all the time. Only on the weekends . So I would like to build this once and keep up on maintence and be done with it. So ideas for the crank pistons and rods for now would be great. Looking to buy some rods today I thought about the eagle h beam rods but which is better steel or alluminum?

And those BC are pretty expensive for what the eagles can do on half the price from what I herd.

 

[Rubent70]

^^^ too add to this I'm not going to be rapping the $### out of it either all the time. Only on the weekends . So I would like to build this once and keep up on maintence and be done with it. So ideas for the crank pistons and rods for now would be great. Looking to buy some rods today I thought about the eagle h beam rods but which is better steel or alluminum?

And those BC are pretty expensive for what the eagles can do on half the price from what I herd.

Honestly I think it's personal preference for steel or aluminum rods. Although the aluminum rods will be lighter I think by about 100g for the set.
If you really want peice of mind you can always buy a forged rotating assembly but those usually go for over $2000 and the stock 64 crank should be ok for your goal and will save you the $1000 and then some.

 

[Spyder Sean]

Very true on the rods. The crank is sketchy with that much horse power thought. Cause it can handle about 7.5k Rpms which kinda worts me

A tally I found a forged rotating for a little under 2000it was like 1700 but ya a lot of money.

Hey do you know what oil drains need to be plugged in the block