2G Opinions on my upgrade list?

[DEFYANT]

Hello everyone, I have posted on here once before asking about buying my current car. I ended up picking my 97 TSi FWD for $1900, it currently has a 14B that has very minimal shaft play, a Megan 2.5" DP, Gutted Cat, and a 2.5" Exhaust Shop hack job, it also has a eBay Intake (was told it was Injen). Anyways the car is my daily driver, and I haven't had a lot of issues out of it yet, which is awesome.

Somewhere around October I want to put some money into the car, I'm going to have $3-4000 to play with and I want to make the car a bit quicker, maybe ~50hp more. I would aslo like to make it more reliable, it doesn't go on long trips often, but I would love to try and make it to the Shootout. Anyways, here is my upgrade list.

Factory 7-Bolt 144K Shortblock (Compression Test was good)
OEM MLS Head Gasket
ARP Head Studs
Kiggly HLA Regulator
EVO 8 Valve Springs and Retainers
GSC S1 264/264 Camshafts
Extreme PSI Timing Belt Kit
Shaved and Powdercoated Valve Cover
Factory Auto 144K Transmission
B&M 14,000GVW Transmission Cooler
Factory 2G Intake/1G N/T TB (Gasket Matched)
VRSF Front Mount/1G Crushed BOV
FP Pipe/2G MAF/K&N Filter
Factory 2G Exhaust Manifold/EVO III 02 (Gasket Matched)
Rebuild 14B Turbo (Gasket Match)
Megan 3" DP/3" TP/ 3" Catback
Rewired EVO 9 Fuel Pump
EVO 9 Injectors
Extreme PSI Fuelab AFPR Kit
OEM Thermostat/Radiator Cap
NGK Wires/#7 Plugs
Optima Red Top
Megan Street Coilovers
Hawk Pads/Powerslot Rotors/JNZ Lines
DSMLink V3
AEM WB/Boost/OP
Redo Seats and Headliner
Fix front bumper and repaint it
Repaint Wing
GST Wheels and Hankook Tires (I would like EVO VIII/IX Enkeis but meh)

 

[Talyn]

I really wouldn't start tinkering with engine internals at that much mileage unless/until I was ready to do a full rebuild on the engine, or drop a rebuilt one in.(referring to the new HG, cams, springs etc) And you don't need all that cylinder head(the cams, springs, and head studs, HLA regulator) stuff for a 50hp gain either, waste of money imho. Wait till you are looking for more power and or a full engine rebuild to delve into that stuff, and honestly with that kind of mileage, I would probably try and save up for a new long block and a transmission rebuild, especially if I was planning more power. But that gets into some pretty big money. If you want to hold off on that, I would probably suggest the following, these suggestions are assuming that you aren't planning to upgrade your turbocharger to something larger, 14bs are good to about 250-300hp I believe.
*Timing belt and BS belt replacement(I suggest OEM or known quality parts) w/ new tensioner and pulleys(unless you know it was done recently)
*new water pump
*new Acc belts
*new tstat
*fix replace any damaged/leaking plumbing(be it intake piping, vacuum hoses, oil lines, water lines etc.)
*fuel pump rewire kit(you don't need a bigger pump for a 14b if you rewire the factory pump)
*550cc injectors
*dsmlink(and a tune ofc, which is the point of dsmlink)
*wideband o2 sensor
*exhaust manifold(I like the FP manifold personally)
*o2 housing
*aluminum radiator+shroud(if applicable) slim fans(frees up room in the turbocharger area, better cooling)
*Manual boost controller
*boost gauge
*hard intake/IC piping if not planning to upgrade to a larger turbo and FMIC
*the brake upgrade isn't a bad idea, I wouldn't shell out for a big brake kit at those power levels though, just some decent slotted/drilled/both rotors and some decent pads.

Other than the above I would just try and spruce it up a bit, keep it nice, maintain it etc. while saving up for an engine trans/rebuild if you plan to keep it long term. Most of your engine mods listed are really overkill for a 50hp gain, all you need for that is a little more boost and fuel, and the exh manifold and o2 housing will gain a little bit and help with spool.

 

[Talyn]

There were actually a couple tech articles with upgrade paths I was going to link but they seem to be down or missing for some reason, I PM'd a moderator about it, if he can get them back up I'll link them for you, but the stuff I listed should be a pretty good setup to gain a little more power and be decently reliable. Just keep in the back of your mind that its a fairly high mileage car and things are probably going to break, even without adding more power.

 

[Galipso]

That's an aggressive upgrade list for 3-4k. I'm doing a build on a 6bolt block with 2G head and am already at 3k. 6 bolt block is going to be the best way to go. One thing i've learned tho in doing big builds: Dont do everything at once. If you throw 50 aftermarket parts on and it doesn't start or run good, you'll have to back track.

 

[DEFYANT]

I appreciate the advice guys, Talyn, I think I will follow what you said. I think I will just do some preventative maintenance, and a few power parts. As far as aftermarket stuff, I'll just do some minor things, I would LOVE to run 13's at the track, would a halfshaft upgrade be a good idea? Also, the VRSF FMIC/1G BOV, yay or nah?

I do plan on doing a Manley/Wiseco Combo and an IPT Trans once I get out of school, and possible an FP Black.

 

[curt-s]

... honestly with that kind of mileage, I would probably try and save up for a new long block and a transmission rebuild, especially if I was planning more power.

Why a new longblock? Is there something wrong with the one he has? 144K is nothing, provided proper care was observed.

Now, you could always pull it all apart to start "fresh" (and risk a shop screwing up what could very well be a perfectly good platform) or do it yourself to learn if you've never done it before. It's something you'll have to decide. Other than that, if it's still strong, and there's no indication that any problems exist (remove valve cover and pan to give a good inspection and check endplay), then I don't see why he'd need a "new longblock" at 144K. Plus, just because the odometer reads 144K doesn't mean the engine has that much.

For instance, my odometer reads 142,000Km. The engine I'm using was pulled from a car with an odometer of 330,000Km. Compression test was 160 across the board. However, I still rebuilt because I found bits of valve stem seals in the oil pan.

 

[DEFYANT]

I am definitely not going to do a factory rebuild or a new short/longblock. If the engine comes out it gets built.

Also, this is my front bumper:

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Do you guys think its repairable? I have a very good friend who is pretty proficient at body work, and he thinks he can fiberglass it.

 

[Talyn]

I appreciate the advice guys, Talyn, I think I will follow what you said. I think I will just do some preventative maintenance, and a few power parts. As far as aftermarket stuff, I'll just do some minor things, I would LOVE to run 13's at the track, would a halfshaft upgrade be a good idea? Also, the VRSF FMIC/1G BOV, yay or nah?

I do plan on doing a Manley/Wiseco Combo and an IPT Trans once I get out of school, and possible an FP Black.

FMIC is overkill for a 14b, a 1g bov might be a good idea though, can't recall the limits of the stock one. And I think you might need closer to 300hp to run 13s, but not sure offhand. Halfshaft upgrade wouldn't be a bad idea, will help with things like wheel hop. And yeah, that bumper could be fixed fairly easily with fiberglass.

 

[Talyn]

Why a new longblock? Is there something wrong with the one he has? 144K is nothing, provided proper care was observed.

Now, you could always pull it all apart to start "fresh" (and risk a shop screwing up what could very well be a perfectly good platform) or do it yourself to learn if you've never done it before. It's something you'll have to decide. Other than that, if it's still strong, and there's no indication that any problems exist (remove valve cover and pan to give a good inspection and check endplay), then I don't see why he'd need a "new longblock" at 144K. Plus, just because the odometer reads 144K doesn't mean the engine has that much.

For instance, my odometer reads 142,000Km. The engine I'm using was pulled from a car with an odometer of 330,000Km. Compression test was 160 across the board. However, I still rebuilt because I found bits of valve stem seals in the oil pan.

I didn't tell him to rebuild the engine, I told him he should save for it so that hes prepared if it or anything else for that matter, does go especially considering its his daily, he has a car that's 17 years old, and he wants to add more power. Its not a question of whether things are going to break, its a question of what and when. I would hate to see him drop 4k in mods, only for his engine to blow up a week later and not have any money left over to do anything about it, plus most of those mods were overkill for the small power upgrade hes looking for. Its sage advice coming from someone whos been there. And thats great that your 330km engine was in good shape, but that doesn't mean his 144k is, its a crapshoot, maybe his engine goes to 160, maybe 180, maybe even 200k, maybe his buddy's dsm blows up at 120k. Truth is, without a full dissassembly and inspection(which I wouldn't advise), nobody can know what kind of life that engine might or might not have left. I'm only advising that he be prepared for the worst and not shoot himself in the foot by being unprepared.

 

[curt-s]

True, that's why I was suggesting he at the very least inspect the top and bottom end. It may actually have been recently redone by somebody competent, all can be verified quite easily by a semi-teardown without going too nuts or wanting to replace the block, as you said. It read as though you were insisting he go with a new one because 144k (with an unverified rebuild date) was high, which it's not. Your advice makes more sense now We're on the same page now that you've explained.

OP, you might also want to be aware that the Evo III O2 housing is angled differently than your Megan downpipe will be. This may cause a rotational issue mating to the rest of your exhaust. The cure can be grining down the flange to fit, but don't expect the gasket to soak up the difference.

Injectors-wise, you might as well go with something above 600cc. You'll run that 14b out of steam and your third gears flatten out at about 28lb/min. You'll upgrade, and it's always better to be on the safe side, so if you can swing 750cc or higher (stay under 1000cc for now), I'd suggest it.

Cams, 264/264 is a nice little bump above stock but you're moving your powerband higher than stock with them. You can max a 14b on the stock cams very easily, and you won't gain much until you go with a turbo that can breathe much better. Your money is better spent elsewhere.

1g recirc valve, I'd also suggest something other than that if you plan on running close to 20psi. You can crush it or garage mod it, and sometimes you can end up with somethat that can hold. However, if it's an old valve, you're not going to do much good with modifying it. I've crushed two 1g valves, both leaked at 15psi. The one I run right now allows me to peak to 20psi, but I'll taper back to 16-17psi and run slightly lean because the air is flowing back ino the turbo and not into the IM. Thankfully I still stay around 11.3.
They're good valves, I have a few, but they're not predictably stable above 12psi due to their age.

If you do decide to go with an aftermarket valve, unless you're running speed density, choose one that recirculates back to the intake. Hard pipes on intercooler and intake still give you plenty of volume if you like the whoosh.

 

[Talyn]

Wasn't necessarily suggesting a full rebuild right away, and I really wouldn't bother tearing it down either, you're talking at least $100 worth of gaskets, probably closer to 200 if you're checking bottom end clearances. I would probably check the compression and oil pressure were decent, and run it if so, but I would be wary of it nonetheless, 144k might not be much in some mundane daily driver that's never seen full throttle, but when talking about performance cars, especially cheap ones, odds are they've been thrashed on, and often times not maintained either. I'd rather have a slow car that still runs than a fast one that's sidelined in my garage bc I spent all my money on go fast parts and don't have any left to fix it when something breaks, I would say that I learned that the hard way, except I still seem to do it...do as I say not as I do, .

 

[Talyn]

The moderator linked me those tech guides, I guess they were moved temporarily or something, anyways, this should help guide you somewhat:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/basic-horsepower-ugrades-2g-4g63t.480196/