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Only running on cyl. 1 and 2, but getting fuel and spark an all 4... At my wits end.

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kronus

20+ Year Contributor
652
27
Jan 15, 2006
Independence, Missouri
So I finally have the motor all back together, but I can't get the car to run right. After I got everything buttoned up, I test fired the motor and saw that I was running on 3 cylinders. All four had spark, but #3 was not getting fuel. Not a big deal, so I went ahead and threw the rest of the timing covers back on and bolted down all of the pulleys for PS, Alt, Water, yada yada.

Well, once everything was back together I got ready to diagnose the lack of fuel in #3, but I found out I was now only running on cylinders 1 and 2. Swapped injectors around, and the same thing happened regardless of which injectors were in the 3 and 4 spots. Obviously this is electrical. I picked up a working CAS to try, but nothing changed. I'm doubting it's the ECU, because I just barely bought this from Mindblowin_03 last summer before my swap. Mind you this was a freshly rebuilt ECU and it maybe has 4k miles on it.

Anyway, after doing some multimeter work, I've come up with these numbers:

-All 4 injectors have a resistance of ~ 2.3 ohms.
-All 4 injector plugs have 12 volts on the black wire side, but only 0.4 volts on the colored wire side. (I don't know why, and I don't know if that's good or bad.)
-Injector resistor pack has a resistance of ~ 6.x ohms across each of the 4 pins.

Also, when I pull the plugs and injectors, I'm getting spark on all four plugs (verified by laying them all on the valve cover and watched for arcing) and I'm each injector is clicking.

So now I'm stumped. I've double and tripled checked timing, and I just cannot figure out what the problem is. (BTW, I'm gonna check my compression tomorrow. Didn't get a chance to today just because I didn't have a comp. tester.)

Any ideas?
 
I think you answered your own question. Air + fuel + compression = combustion take one of those out of the equation and you got a dead cylinder.

I would bet either a head gasket or worse depending on what all you touched in the rebuild. If your timing marks are on and the CAS is on and functioning properly then its down to the mechanical but id say the CAS is failing. Just judging by the fact that you dropped a cylinder then another right after. Have you checked for coolant in the oil to verify the head gasket is sealed?

You might make sure the valve cover o rings arent leaking oil ontop of the plugs as well....

Just some food for the aching melon :thumb:

Kolby
 
Update!

Compression is 120 across the board. Mind you I haven't had a chance to break in the motor yet.

I pulled the spark plugs to verify spark and I found that #3 was not sparking correctly, and #4 had some material on the lead preventing spark. Replaced those two and now I have good spark on all four.

Checked voltages again, and all four injector plugs have 12v on the black wire side, and 0.22v on the colored wire side dipping to 0.19v when I turn the cas.

Got the car to run again on #2, 3, and 4 but now #1 wasn't firing. Car idled well and after giving a little throttle, the engine backfired and now the motor won't turn on at all.

I'm so lost. But i'm resetting the ecu to see if that will help.
 
I had to replace the CAS in my vehicle, along with the coil and the ECU.

What I'm curious about is about the compression readings: Ain't they kinda a bit on the low side?

good luck in getting your ride back on the road again, "Mr. K" - DSM
 
Well I got the car up and running, and yeah, the compression is pretty low, but I haven't had a chance to seat the new rings yet.

The motor is misfiring in the lower rpm's and is pouring out blue smoke on boost. Which brings me to another problem; the turbo isn't building boost. I'm afraid the seals are dead on the turbo =(
 
You may have figured out what the problem was. But here's what it could be. Some people have mistaken the air conditioner compressor plug in for the Knock sensor plug in . This will for sure cause your miss fire. So just make sure you got it hooked up right. It doesn't matter if you have air or not . Its the female side attached to the wiring harness that people mistake. Later!
 
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