The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

On the fence: SBC Stage 1 or 2 Daily Driver Clutch Kit?

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Regarding the OP's goals of barely above stock power levels. The SBC HD pressure plate would likely handle it just fine with a TZ-series Kevlar disk, which is essentially a stock pressure plate kit. If he had bigger goals or was launching the car, then I would go into a higher capacity pressure plate like the stuff I offer (SS pressure plate and TZ-series full face Kevlar sprung hub disk, or the higher capacity TZ/B-series full-face dual friction Kevlar/Ceramic sprung hub disk)..

As for the OEM TOB and seeing them off-centered, you have to understand that the bearing sleeve is self-aligning and has a range of movement internally to deal with misalignment, crank runout, and input shaft runout / input shaft bearing endplay. They are designed to move. The OEM MD749998 NSK Japan TOB along with the Koyo RCT322SA Japan TOB both have that free play to move around. Put some actual force on the bearing contact portion and you will see that they can shift back and forth, it is not seized in an off-center position. It isn't junk unless it is completely seized.

The SBC kits either come with the thick sleeved self-aligning Koyo RCT322SA Japan TOB or the thinner sleeved NSK 48TKA3201 Japan TOB that is a fixed bearing contact portion normally sold in the Exedy MBK1000 clutch kits. Sometimes they use the Nachi 48TKA3201, and Competition Clutch typically uses the Nachi bearing as well (Comp 5-05048). The Comp fabbed bearing CC-TM5-5048-TBA is a bit different dimensionally but works with both the single and twin / triple disk clutch options and has a machined lower portion with welded tabs and a slightly higher stand-off height and is self aligning as well.

Also, so you know, the OEM TOB (MD749998) has a few variations from different manufacturers with the same total dimensions with varying build quality, see below for examples:
  • OEM Number:
  • MITSUBISHI MD706180
    MITSUBISHI MD749998
    MITSUBISHI MD719925
  • KXB 327021
  • SKF VKC3515
  • SACHS 3151808001
  • VALEO 804095
  • SACHS 3151878001
  • LuK 500023760
  • LuK 500071160
  • NK 123001
  • DAIKIN BRG210
  • RUVILLE 3801
  • JAPANPARTS CF501
  • NIPPARTS J2400502
  • HYUNDAI 4142121300
  • HYUNDAI 4142121400
  • HYUNDAI 4142126000
  • HYUNDAI 4142121000
  • KOYO RCT322SA
  • NACHI 48SCRN32K
  • DAIKIN BRG434
  • NSK 48TKB3202
  • NSK 48TKA3201
  • MITSUBISHI 4142136000
  • MITSUBISHI AW303858
  • MERCEDES-BENZ MD722744
  • BCA 614126
  • HYUNDAI 4141011000
  • HYUNDAI 4242121000
  • PROTON PW550013
  • ASHIKA 9005599
  • ASCO BM032
  • JAPANPARTS CF502
  • JAPKO 90502
  • ASHIKA 9005502
  • BLUE PRINT ADC43301
  • JAPANPARTS CFH02
  • ASHIKA 900H002
  • JAPKO 90H02
  • SACHS 3151808002
  • DT Components 614126
  • Precision Seals & Bearings 614126
  • LuK 500023710
  • LuK 500055560
  • JAPANPARTS CF597
  • JAPKO 90597
  • JAPKO 90501
  • ASHIKA 9005597
  • ASHIKA 9005501
  • MITSUBISHI MD722744
  • BLUE PRINT ADC43317
  • KAWE 989841
  • HYUNDAI 4142136000
  • STATIM 974L
  • SNR BAC37302
  • KAGER 150008
  • BREDA LORETT CR6041
  • AISIN BM032
  • SKF N3067
  • MECARM MR8326
  • EXEDY BRG466
  • QUINTON HAZELL CCT305
  • VALEO 804102
  • EXEDY BRG210
  • EXEDY BRG439
  • NK 123005
  • DAIKIN BRG466
  • NIPPARTS J2405006
  • RUVILLE 3805
  • NSK-RHP 48TKA3201
  • TIMKEN 614126
  • MITSUBISHI 4142121300
  • HERTH+BUSS JAKOPARTS J2405002
  • CHRYSLER MD706180
  • CHRYSLER MD722744
  • SEALED POWER C6146S
  • VERA 2601119
  • GREEN CB2110C
  • ITM 3020004
  • ITM 3020300
  • ITM 3021203
  • L&S Bearing TT2110H
  • Aetna Bearing A4108C
  • IAPCO C0216002
  • WORLD PARTS W41112
  • NSK-RHP 48TKB3202
  • GMB GC40010
  • BECK/ARNLEY 0621037
  • PERFECT CIRCLE 614126
  • DAIKIN BRG439
  • NIPPARTS J2405013
  • NPS M240I14
  • NIPPARTS J2405002
  • NATIONAL 614126
  • RUVILLE 3806
  • BORG WARNR N1741
  • L&S Bearing TT4044
  • ABC TT2110H
  • American Motors MD722744
  • CR N3067
  • PROTON MD706180
  • LAZORLITE L798002
  • LAZORLITE L798673
  • LAZORLITE L798911
  • NAPA 614126
  • NIPPON 48TKA3201
  • SEALED POWER FTT2110H
  • SEALED POWER C4146
  • SEALED POWER C6146
  • HERTH+BUSS JAKOPARTS J2405006
  • HERTH+BUSS JAKOPARTS J2400502
  • Precision Seals & Bearings 614099
  • HYUNDAI 4142111300
  • DT Components 614099
  • TIMKEN 614099
  • EXEDY BRG900
  • PERFECT CIRCLE 3000017
  • BorgWarner 96015
  • BorgWarner N1741
  • BorgWarner N3898
  • NPS M240I02
  • NPS M240I08
  • NPS H240I01
  • CORAM C0215
  • DAIKIN BRG831
  • **** 614126
  • AISIN B32
  • SACHS 3000954260
  • SACHS SB60034
  • SACHS SN1741
  • NATIONAL 614099
  • SKF N3652
  • AUTOSPECIALTY CB52003
  • SKF VKC3515A
  • NSK-RHP 48TKT3202
  • VALEO 352379
  • VALEO 801587
  • VALEO 801588
  • VALEO 801589
  • VALEO 801590
  • VALEO 801591
  • VALEO 801592
  • VALEO 801727
  • CHICAGO RAWHIDE N3067
  • HYUNDAI 4142128000
  • HYUNDAI 4142122810
  • LuK N1741
  • LuK RB9953
  • LuK 623101160
  • NICE N1741
  • BRYCO 63210
  • BORG & BECK HD5337
  • BORG & BECK L206
  • TRIPLE FIVE ADC43301
  • TRIPLE FIVE CB1717N
  • TRIPLE FIVE N1741
  • TRIPLE FIVE TKS4801K
  • TRIPLE FIVE VKD17245
  • SKF VKC3652
  • CHRYSLER MD749998
  • CHRYSLER MD719925
  • NSK 48TKA3201U3
  • CHRYSLER MB837549
  • ITM 2233510
  • ITM 2233605
  • FEDERAL MOGUL 614099
  • FEDERAL MOGUL 614126
  • NSK 48TKB3202R
  • NSK 48TKX3201
  • PIONEER N4099SC
  • PIONEER N4126
  • PIONEER N4126SC
  • MITSUBISHI MB837549
  • VOLVO 30874144
  • LuK 622186960
  • LuK 620152300
  • LuK 620152400
  • LuK 622152200
  • LuK 622152700
  • LuK 622165700
  • LuK 622185560
  • LuK 622185860
  • LuK 622186260
  • LuK 622186560
  • LuK 622198260
  • LuK 622204560
  • LuK 623092760
  • LuK 500073760
  • LuK 619152500
  • LuK 620092160
  • LuK 500022760
  • NISSAN MD722744
  • QUINTON HAZELL CCT101
  • MITSUBISHI MD701283
  • MITSUBISHI 4142121400
  • MITSUBISHI 4142126000
  • MITSUBISHI 4142111000
  • MITSUBISHI 4142121000
  • HERTH+BUSS JAKOPARTS J2005066
  • DELPHI HD5874
  • TRIPLE FIVE PRB01
  • TRIPLE FIVE CB7023
  • TRIPLE FIVE F556907
  • PROTON MD749998
  • PROTON PLU550013
  • LuK 623185960
  • LuK 623186060
  • LuK 623186760
  • LuK 623186860
  • LuK 623187360
  • HYUNDAI MD719925
  • KIA 4142136000
  • A.P. HD5337
  • JAPANPARTS JCF500
  • JAPANPARTS JCF501
  • JAPANPARTS JCF502
  • JAPANPARTS JCF597
  • JAPANPARTS JCF599
  • JAPANPARTS JCFH01
  • JAPANPARTS JCFH02
  • NSK-RHP 48TKA3201U3
  • NTN FCR48112E
  • NTN FCR481132E
  • NSK-RHP 48TKB3202ENCS
  • JAPANPARTS 9005501
  • JAPANPARTS 9005502
  • JAPANPARTS 9005597
  • JAPANPARTS 900H002
  • JAPANPARTS CF301
  • JAPANPARTS CF302
  • JAPANPARTS CF500
  • SKF VKC3515FS
  • SKF VKC3505
  • BENDIX 108086
  • SACHS 053151808001
  • SACHS 053151808002
  • SACHS 053151878001
  • SACHS 1863805001
  • VALEO 821121
  • VALEO K536S
  • VALEO K537S
  • VALEO K538S
  • VALEO K539S
  • VALEO K589S
  • RUVILLE 2901
  • INA F556907
  • INA F55690701
  • DAIKIN BM032
  • DAIKIN BRG010
  • NK 129901
  • AISIN BS038
  • STAHLGRUBER 3628197
  • STAHLGRUBER 3628207
  • STAHLGRUBER 3628269
  • HAVAM AL3507
  • HAVAM AL3581
  • HAVAM AM2650
  • NPS M240I00
  • MAPA 700180600
  • JAPKO 90301
  • JAPKO 90302
  • JAPKO 90500
  • MECARM MR8325
  • NIPPARTS J2405010
  • FI. DI. BM032
  • SOLID AUTO (UK) M309001
  • SOLID AUTO (UK) M309007
  • NIPPARTS J2405000
  • ASHIKA 9003301
  • ASHIKA 9003302
  • ASHIKA 9005500
  • ASHIKA CF501
  • ASHIKA CF502
  • ASHIKA CF597
  • ASHIKA CFH02
  • BECK/ARNLEY 0619025
  • BECK/ARNLEY 0619471
  • BECK/ARNLEY 0619498
  • BECK/ARNLEY 0619578
  • MAPCO 12540
 
Last edited:
Be careful with the OEM TOB. A lot of them are off centered and are not useable. I bought an OEM when I put my southbend in, only to notice it was so off centered I couldn't run it, and went with the SBC TOB.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Per the above comments I'd look at that again. I guess I never paid attention. I took a harder look since Tim commented. It's trivial to realign the piece that is off center. I took a screwdriver to it and it moves freely. Difficult to do with finger but it's obvious how it works once you mess with it and it took very little force from a screwdriver.
 
So it's basically a "floating" inner race on the TOB, to account for play in the trans input shaft/bearing or perhaps the clutch (I'm just guessing where the source of the play is), but in a way that shouldn't cause problems the way say a wheel bearing that has any play would? I.e. it's eccentric, it's "floating"?

Btw, since everyone said to never use an aftermarket clutch kit TOB, I ordered a NSK OEM from RockAuto. You're saying that if I get the SBC I shouldn't need it as they supply an OEM or OEM-quality TOB with the plastic or resin inner sleeve? It was actually the NSK 48TKT3202, not NSK 48TKT3201 that you listed above. In either case, is it unnecessary and I should return it if I get the SBC?

Also, totally different topic, but I've been having a hard time finding a Group 86 battery for my Talon, at least at the several Costcos I've been to. They're around $30 cheaper and I like their no questions asked return/replace policy. While I try to track down an 86, can I use any car's 12V battery to run the engine? The hood will stay open and the car won't be moving, and it'll just be for a few minutes to run the car for the first time in several years and see if everything's more or less ok before I replace the clutch. I won't need the 86 until that job's done and I want to test the car moving.

Oh, two other really quick questions. Is "launching" the car basically revving it in gear with the clutch disengaged, then popping the clutch? And what does "street" mean in the context of what you intend to do with the car, as opposed to "daily driving"? Does that mean racing the car on streets and roads as opposed to a track? I don't intend to do either but I keep coming across these terms and was just curious.
 
As for the OEM TOB and seeing them off-centered, you have to understand that the bearing sleeve is self-aligning and has a range of movement internally to deal with misalignment, crank runout, and input shaft runout / input shaft bearing endplay. They are designed to move. The OEM MD749998 NSK Japan TOB along with the Koyo RCT322SA Japan TOB both have that free play to move around. Put some actual force on the bearing contact portion and you will see that they can shift back and forth, it is not seized in an off-center position. It isn't junk unless it is completely seized.
Thanks for the info!

Problem is the OEM TOB I took off with my Centerforce clutch was off-centered as well, and you could clearly see the bearing was not centered on the clutch fingers.

The wear pattern shows some fingers were having force applied at the very edge, while others were further in. Since the fingers are a lever, pressing them in different places is going to change the force, and I have no doubt that would cause uneven clutch disengagement, leading to premature clutch wear.

If they're designed to move around, that seems like a horrible design to me. :idontknow:

clutch1-jpg.571511
 
Thanks for the info!

Problem is the OEM TOB I took off with my Centerforce clutch was off-centered as well, and you could clearly see the bearing was not centered on the clutch fingers.

The wear pattern shows some fingers were having force applied at the very edge, while others were further in. Since the fingers are a lever, pressing them in different places is going to change the force, and I have no doubt that would cause uneven clutch disengagement, leading to premature clutch wear.

If they're designed to move around, that seems like a horrible design to me. :idontknow:

clutch1-jpg.571511
We should probably start a new thread but I noticed this. Why does that disk look so far off center? It obviously has to be centered with the input shaft. So what are we seeing here? It kind of look like some of the fingers are short.
 
Sorry if this sounds like a stupid comment from a newbie, but with the trans off isn't the clutch disc not really attached to anything radially and sort of floating, with the pressure plate spring fingers keeping it positioned radially relative to center exactly where it was when the trans was in?

So if the disc is still uncentered with the trans in, doesn't that mean that the input shaft has too much play, not axially but radially, meaning that the input bearing is shot, because that's what keeps the input shaft centered at the input end? It can't be the TOB doing this if it floats by design, right?

I took a look at the FSM and the input bearing is a taper rolling design, so perhaps there's something wrong with it or the outer race? Or, perhaps, the trans wasn't mounted quite right, low and to the left a bit? Or, the pressure plate or flywheel are mounted off-center (but that's not likely as the imbalance would destroy the engine I imagine).

It looks to me like there's input shaft to flywheel alignment issues here. Bad or missing pilot bearing, perhaps?

Just spitballing. Carry on.
 
Last edited:
Sorry if this sounds like a stupid comment from a newbie, but with the trans off isn't the clutch disc not really attached to anything radially and sort of floating, with the pressure plate spring fingers keeping it positioned radially relative to center exactly where it was when the trans was in?

So if the disc is still uncentered with the trans in, doesn't that mean that the input shaft has too much play, not axially but radially, meaning that the input bearing is shot, because that's what keeps the input shaft centered at the input end? It can't be the TOB doing this if it floats by design, right?

I took a look at the FSM and the input bearing is a taper rolling design, so perhaps there's something wrong with it or the outer race? Or, perhaps, the trans wasn't mounted quite right, low and to the left a bit? Or, the pressure plate or flywheel are mounted off-center (but that's not likely as the imbalance would destroy the engine I imagine).

It looks to me like there's input shaft to flywheel alignment issues here. Bad or missing pilot bearing, perhaps?

Just spitballing. Carry on.
Good theories but not exactly. True with trans out there is nothing holding the disk. Except that the pressure plate clamps hard and the likelihood of it moving is slim. This is also why you have to use a tool to center the disc when installing a new clutch. There is no pilot bearing or bushing on a manual trans. The bearing idea on the input is solid except for the fact the shaft itself goes through the snout the TOB rides on and can't really radially move.
 
Then it would have to be some sort of misalignment between the trans and flywheel, if the trans doesn't allow any significant play on the input shaft and the flywheel has to be centered on the crankshaft pulley or else the wobble would destroy the flywheel if not engine, right? If there's no pilot bearing to hold the input shaft in the flywheel, how much radial play is there for the part of the shaft that's runs through the bell housing and sits in the flywheel?
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top