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On a quest for 400hp Need opinions on machine work

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Tfitch90

10+ Year Contributor
410
1
Jun 26, 2011
Bowie, Maryland
Ok I am doing a rebuild. I would love to have a 400hp DD, but i will settle for 380. Ive been told its hard to get the evo3 16g to 400. So here is the list for now just to get the car back up and running. Bore .020 over with manly 8.5:1 pistons on eagle h beam rods, arp head studs, fidanza flywheel, fidanza adjustable cam gears, 650cc injectors, gates racing timing belt, evo3 16g, and afcII for tune.

For the future (before xmas) I will be getting cams, bigger injectors, full dsmlink v3, aem truboost, wideband, and i'm going to rebuild the head and maybe get things ported. What cams should i go with ?

My questions is will I be ok without rebuilding the head yet. The car should be done by the end of August. I was going to send in my head for a stage 2 built head from dsm graveyard (but after reading the reviews HELL NO). I know you guys dont know the condition of the head but it looks really clean i just need it to last for about 2 months. So when i go to the machine shop next week I'm just going to get the block bored, hot tanked, and honed, and get the crank miced and turned if it needs to be. Im on a budget and i just need to get this car running soon so i want to hold out on the head work.

Sorry if im asking a lot of questions.
 
the first mod you would want to do next is the Wideband O2 and DSM link.
you should check out the mods list and search the dyno/track time slips and compare what you have VS what they have for there HP.
please do a Search for 16g dyno. and see what they have. just take about 1-2 hrs of looking and all your questions should be answered.
 
the first mod you would want to do next is the Wideband O2 and DSM link.
you should check out the mods list and search the dyno/track time slips and compare what you have VS what they have for there HP.
please do a Search for 16g dyno. and see what they have. just take about 1-2 hrs of looking and all your questions should be answered.

Ok thanks ! Most of these things i already have i just kinda learned about wideband and its use.
 
The "current" setup, without headwork, will not not you the kind of power you are looking for. I have a similar setup with my stock 7 bolt and Im only producing ~300 whp according to dsmlink. This is with a full FMIC hard piping setup, full Apexi N1 exhaust, FP Exhaust mani, Megan Racing 02 housing, etc. I see none of that in your profile or build plans which will put a huge damper on your power. Now here are a few simple suggestions;

1. Full exhaust, full intake, are both necessary and a FMIC is a plus.

2. To save money I would suggest ditching the truboost and getting a manual boost controller + basic boost gauge.

3. A nice set of Delta regrind 272's would be about perfect for your setup, and considering you are on a budget, they are a cheap and efficient alternative to a full blown set.

4. Your AFC is going to hinder your progress, I would highly suggest skipping it and going for ecmlink if at all possible. It has become rather affordable...

5. The cam gears aren't really necessary but its your money.

6. If you already have 660 cc injectors, I would suggest looking at a fuel pump rewire and upgrade along with a adjustable FPR.

All of this is food for thought, I mean hey, im not tellin you how to live your life, just offering up some suggestions. Good luck!
 
Stock motor + e85 + dsmlink
/thread

No need for that much into the motor for only a 400hp goal when the stock + studs can handle it just fine. What injectors? I suggest 1000 and just run e85. Skip the afc garbage and I do not see a pump upgrade, pickup a wally255 & regulator. No need for adjustable cam gears unless you have cams, the only way to give you more power from the gears is some dyno time anyways.

+1 always have a wideband
 
My mistake i left out a few things. The car came with full 3" exhaust, intake, and fidanza cam gears. It also came with the afcII, and 255 pump. Next 2 weeks i will have a PR FMIC. Im not really on a budget as much as im on a time limit to getting the car up and running. After its running its whatever I will just be adding stuff. I do want to go e85 next summer tho.
 
I would have the head at the shop also
I do recomend doing this oil mod....
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html

have them hot wash the head, check the surface, and put the proper finish on the head AND block if you plan on running a MLS head gasket.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html

if all they use is a belt surfacer find another shop....
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...0613-why-not-let-your-head-belt-surfaced.html


also have the springs changed, if on a budget.. the BC1100 with stock retainers will be just fine.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341209-4g63t-valve-spring-info.html

if you EVER decide to go with Kelford Cams.. you will need diffrent springs.


and for a general overview of machine work.. Read this.....
It was written by DSM Wiseman Big Woo
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/303225-engine-machine-work-explained.html
 
all the parts and mechanical work is like having ingredients for a making a cake. The right tuning tools is like having and Oven. AFC's are on the level of camp fire, you can probably do it....not the best way to bake. DSMlink is like an oven in your house, perfect for cake baking. And full standalone ECU's are like the one Martha Stewart uses....fancy.
 
You really need dsm link to max out a 16g. I also agree to skip the cam gears very unnessasary
 
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