oil leak after rebuilt

[1988talon22]

hey guy i just finish rebuilding my motor came by lot of problem like a leaking head gasket so had to redo that and the water pump was a goner had to buy brand new one after i got everything back in i now got a oil leak coming from right under the tensoinor the two wheel underneath that buy like a half inch in the middle i cant open it up again to check cause it raing but hopefully it just a mission bolt and my oil presure is relli high is that ok cause i install a balance shaft eliminator

 

[TuRBoTaLooN]

Looks like you're from Quebec, so I'm assuming English is a second language. Your post is a bit difficult to understand. But to answer part of your post, by eliminating the balance shaft, yes your oil pressure will be a bit higher.

 

[1988talon22]

so its ok right and now im not from here i just live here and i got no french skills

 

[92AWDHX40]

Did you seal the balance shaft opening, and the other opening with rtv, or a sealant?

 

[5150DSM]

Did you seal the hole that the BS tensioner pulley went into? Follow this link for the proper BSE information... Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit Install

 

[1988talon22]

yes i just toock off the belt and water pump pulley and crankshaft and took off the cover and i found something that was so retarted i totallly forgot to tighten the tensioner housing bolts damn my first rebuilt took lot of work for it to suceed first i had a head gasket leak when everything was installed so i had to redo that all over again taking it all out and the water pump was a goner had to buy a new one i had to take out and install like several time but this my first rebuild ever in my life so i guess it was a very good experience i also got 2g piston on 1 g rod for a 1g car wonder how it gonna turn out well ill get pics soon as i get my engine clean its the best looking thing in the world hahah im happy =)

 

[91 TSi GP]

When i first put my motor in I had a horrible leak and it was because I didnt put the castle plug back on the front case that coves the one bolt that holds on the BSEK. I could literally see oil coming out while it was running and then I realized I didnt get a new plug with my front case so I just overlooked it. Put that plug in and good to go.

 

[5150DSM]

yes i just toock off the belt and water pump pulley and crankshaft and took off the cover and i found something that was so retarted i totallly forgot to tighten the tensioner housing bolts damn my first rebuilt took lot of work for it to suceed first i had a head gasket leak when everything was installed so i had to redo that all over again taking it all out and the water pump was a goner had to buy a new one i had to take out and install like several time but this my first rebuild ever in my life so i guess it was a very good experience i also got 2g piston on 1 g rod for a 1g car wonder how it gonna turn out well ill get pics soon as i get my engine clean its the best looking thing in the world hahah im happy =)

Everyone makes mistakes. Just learn from it and be more careful next time. Glad you got it worked out.

 

[1988talon22]

well car not in running mode yet still needs a new oil filter houseing cause some sensor or whatever its called broke and is squirting oil out of that lil hole so waiting to get that fixed and hopefully it all good to go
oh i wanted to ask a question about break in. in the manual it said 30 mph to 55 mph so how does this work do i let it warm up and take it down the street and redline it in gear two for the piston to seat would that be ok to do the 30 mph to 55mhp in second gear

 

[landrocket]

NO dont rev the engine high at all! you want to drive easy. don't rev high, dont drive over 55 for a long distance for the first 300 to 500 miles so everything can break in properly. if you get to excited and start racing it you could blow up a new engine very easily. you need to give it time for everything to seat properly! i would keep it between 3000 and 4000 RPM's until broken in. after 500 miles change the oil and filter and have fun. just make sure you dont break in the motor with synthetic oil, use a conventional oil during break-in. also make sure you dont overheat it during break-in, it could be catastrophic!

 

[_-Ax-_]

NO dont rev the engine high at all! you want to drive easy. don't rev high, dont drive over 55 for a long distance for the first 300 to 500 miles so everything can break in properly. if you get to excited and start racing it you could blow up a new engine very easily. you need to give it time for everything to seat properly! i would keep it between 3000 and 4000 RPM's until broken in. after 500 miles change the oil and filter and have fun. just make sure you dont break in the motor with synthetic oil, use a conventional oil during break-in. also make sure you dont overheat it during break-in, it could be catastrophic!

Actually, if you're referring to a bottom end rebuild, then I'm sorry to say that you're completely wrong.

Everyone thinks that the best thing to do when breaking in a freshly rebuilt motor is baby it. When in reality they aren't seating the rings correctly and will end up with lower compression pressures and more blow-by than if they would have ran it hard during break in.

I read a very interesting article about someone doing this to Honda street bike racing motors. This is basically what it said. During a normal rebuild, the cylinder walls are cross-hatched and honed and new rings are installed. The reason for cross-hatching is because during break in, the rings will grind off the sharp peaks on the cylinder walls left by the cross-hatching. Thus creating a proper seal. The peculiar thing is that most people just assume that mere spring tension from the rings is what seals them. When in reality, compression pressure itself, seals them.

Here is a cross-sectional view I whipped up:

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Compression gasses seep down the side of the piston and get in behind the rings and actually push them outward to create the seal.

After a fresh rebuild a motor has only a few hundred miles that will determine the ring seal. [I'm not sure on the exact numbers] So by ####y-footing a motor after a rebuild, you aren't properly sealing the rings with the cylinder walls.

I hope someone on here has the link to that article. They explain things in greater detail and have actual facts to back it all up.

 

[Only2G4Me]

I believe this is the method you're talking about. Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

However, I've come to understand this way isn't without drawbacks. From what I've read a general rule of thumb is, if you break in your engine hard (the method above or similar) you'll have more power (compression), but your engine won't last as long. If you break it in easy you won't have as much power, but you'll get longer life out of your engine. This is purely a thought on my part though, and I don't have any proof to back it up. The only reason I say that is because the method above is proven on motorcycle race engines not 4G63's, and as quirky as these damn things are I'm just a bit skeptical. Not trying to say anyone is wrong, just more of a "do it at your own risk" kinda thing.

 

[Calan]

I've always broken engines in with common sense, and will again when my rebuild is finished unless somebody can prove to me that a different method is better within the next month or two.

Don't baby it, but don't redline it either...drive it "normally" with low boost, decent acceleration, and plenty of in-gear deceleration to seat the rings. Use non-synth oil for the first 1500-2000 miles, and change it after 50 miles, 500, and then 1000.

 

[landrocket]

your right about the rings seating properly with more compression to them, but if your revving a rebuilt motor to high too soon than you risk spinning or throwing a bearing. i've see it happen a few times in the past. i'm not saying to treat it like a new born baby, but you need to take it easy and let everything take a proper seat for itself in the motor before you try to start racing it. better safe than sorry unless you have an unlimited amount of cash to be throwing out for engines. you'll get different advice from different people and the best way i've learned is by being logical, gathering as much info as i can, and trial and error.

 

[1988talon22]

damn another two oil leak occur first was the oil pressure sending unit got that fix now at the stupid stubie shaft bolt above the oil pump sprocket it leaks at the castle plug cause i filed down the bolt but i gues it wasnt enough so it touches the castle bolt so wen the oil pump sprocket moves it loosen the castle bolt and that where my new oil leak gonna try to unscrew the bolt out just a little bit and file it down more and hopefully no more darn leaks been getting one leak after another

 

[Filthy95talon]

your right about the rings seating properly with more compression to them, but if your revving a rebuilt motor to high too soon than you risk spinning or throwing a bearing. i've see it happen a few times in the past. i'm not saying to treat it like a new born baby, but you need to take it easy and let everything take a proper seat for itself in the motor before you try to start racing it. better safe than sorry unless you have an unlimited amount of cash to be throwing out for engines. you'll get different advice from different people and the best way i've learned is by being logical, gathering as much info as i can, and trial and error.

just wanted to throw my two cents in seeing as how I can't post anywhere else on the site yet
I've always just Cranked the engine and and let it idle until it reaches operating temperatures, then cut it off and let it cool down completely (COLD) and repeat these two steps 5 or six times before driving and the rings are seated properly from then on. I was turned on to this method by 1 of the most experienced and most credible machinists in my home town. as for throwing a rod or a spun bearrings in a new motor, I've only seen this in incorrectly or poorly rebuilt bottom ends. if everything is right you're good to go, but by babying it, you'll just prolong identifying a poorly rebuilt bottom end from one that was properly rebuilt. It would suck driving like and old lady for 500 miles and then throwing a rod the 1st time you put any ass behind the motor.