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Oil filter does not stop spinning on housing.

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gusu

15+ Year Contributor
1,950
33
Sep 9, 2009
Independence, Oregon
Okay, so last time I changed my oil my I put on the filter and it tightened down and it spun and spun and spun. Took it off put it back on and tightened it down again. It seemed to be perfectly fine and tightened down but stopped spinning.

So I start up the car thinking it's tight and back the car out of the garage (about 3 feet) and then realize the oil is EVERYWHERE. Luckily I have about 2 quarts left. I then get under the car and start tightening the filter on and it was fine. So I tightened it down with the filter wrench til it eventually stopped spinning. After I tried turning it a couple more times I filled it back up with oil and had someone crank the motor while I checked for leaks. It didn't do anything, so I put it in gear and drove it down the driveway. It was perfectly fine for the entire time I had the oil in the car.



Now for what just happened. I put the filter on and tightened it by hand until I couldn't turn it anymore. After that I turned it with the filter wrench a couple times to make sure it was tight (but didn't want to over tighten it so I didn't do anymore) , knowing what happened last time I put my car in reverse started it and let it move back really quick to see if it was leaking, sure enough it was so I turned it off before the oil could drain out very much. Remembering how it was free spinning last time I decided to take it off and tighten it back up.

This time I decided to tighten it until I couldn't get it to move freely with the wrench at all. I cranked and cranked about 8 rotations AFTER I had turned it by hand til I could no longer get enough grip to turn it anymore. It's STILL not tight however the filter is tight with the housing!



I know the bolt the filter screws onto comes off with a 24mm deep socket. My question is what exactly does that banjo bolt screw into? My thoughts is since the last couple times my filters have been a bi*** to get off even with a filter wrench that maybe some how it came loose from having to apply too much torque.

Do you guys think I should torque it back down and see if it just came loose or do you guys think I should take the OFH totally off the car and see what's going on? I personally don't want to go out and spend another 20 bucks on oil.
 
Do NOT remove the filter housing. The issue you are having is due to a possibly (more than likely) stripped oil filter SPINDLE. It's the threaded part the filter screws onto.

Based off what you said on HOW you're tightening your filter on, you are WAY overdoing it.

I've had my fair share of filters in my day. I work at Jiffy Lube and this what I do to pay my bills.

Do this. Replace your filter spindle and buy a new oil filter.

I don't mean to insult your intelligence, but you should NEVER tighter your oil filter with a filter wrench, strap wrench, or ANYTHING of that sort.

Removing your oil filter should be easy enough to do by HAND.

Again, replace your oil filter spindle and get a new filter. Lube up the oil filter gasket with a bit of oil. Then tighten it FINGER TIGHT. THEN do 1/4 turn to 1/2 turn MAXIMUM. It will keep your filter tight. Believe me. Out of the literal THOUSANDS of cars I've serviced, I have NEVER had a filter blow off, screw off, or in any other way NOT do what it's supposed to.

To recap: Replace your filter spindle. New filter. Finger tight. Then 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Call it a day.

Cheers.

- E
 
Agreed I used to work at a lube pros once upon a time and have changed my own oil a countless number of times. It should only be hand tight and sealed at the rubber gasket ring around the oil filter (needs to have a thing film of oil spread over it to make the seal). The only time ive ever had to use the oil filter wrench is when taking someone else's filter off or when my car is really hot and i feel the need to change the oil as soon as possible.

He may be required to change the whole housing if the threads are truly stripped. I dont think you can remove the threaded part itself. Oil Housing

Btw erkitner, how the hell do you support your 98 DSM habit while working at jiffy?
 
Like I said I typically tighten it by hand but you could even visually tell it was not sealing with out it. I'm not sure why, but even preping the filter and not tightening it very much at all by hand it is a bi*** to get on. I'm honestly not a strong guy either.

I've done about 12 oil changes since I've owned the car and no matter how loose it is, it always wants to be a bi***.
 
Hmm. Didn't think of the spindle ITSELF being stripped into the bracket. Good call.

Made me laugh when you asked about me supporting my boost addiction with a Jiffy Lube job.

Well, my cost of living here in NC is pretty low, my wife works as well AND she's a WIZARD when it comes to numbers and budgeting.

She's Asian. They're GOOD at numbers. Go figure.

- E ^_^
 
Hmm. Didn't think of the spindle ITSELF being stripped into the bracket. Good call.

Made me laugh when you asked about me supporting my boost addiction with a Jiffy Lube job.

Well, my cost of living here in NC is pretty low, my wife works as well AND she's a WIZARD when it comes to numbers and budgeting.

She's Asian. They're GOOD at numbers. Go figure.

- E ^_^

Nice!, I just moved from Chicago to Jacksonville,FL. The cost of living is wayyyy cheaper so this has been kind of nice.

Back to the issue at hand. Are you able to take pictures of the seal that you're getting? maybe a video of it spinning even?

It sounds like it may just be cross threaded or stripped farther up the spindle making it appear as if it is tight and on correct but in fast it may not be. As for your original question, the banjo bolt I would assume screws into the oil housing/cooler. My suggestion would be to take that spindle off see if that may the the actual thing that is loosening up and not the filter itself. Maybe locktight the threads that go into the cooler and bolt it back it, just be careful not to tighten it too much (it can crack the housing).
 
Nice!, I just moved from Chicago to Jacksonville,FL. The cost of living is wayyyy cheaper so this has been kind of nice.

Back to the issue at hand. Are you able to take pictures of the seal that you're getting? maybe a video of it spinning even?

It sounds like it may just be cross threaded or stripped farther up the spindle making it appear as if it is tight and on correct but in fast it may not be. As for your original question, the banjo bolt I would assume screws into the oil housing/cooler. My suggestion would be to take that spindle off see if that may the the actual thing that is loosening up and not the filter itself. Maybe locktight the threads that go into the cooler and bolt it back it, just be careful not to tighten it too much (it can crack the housing).



I got it figured out. Apparently they had a bad shipment of WIX filters and instead of weeding out the bad ones by the recall notice they felt as though they would simply issue store credit to those who brought them back.

The filters threads were all kinds of ####ed up to the point where I am shocked it even threaded at all in the first place. I changed my oil THREE MONTHS AGO and sure enough my old WIX filter had a defect as well.

At first when I took them back to Shucks they tried to pass off some bullshit free filter and refund for the cost of the oil. Normally I would agree to something like this but really THREE MONTHS?! I really do wonder how long they have been sitting on messed up filters.

Anyway, after a lot of arguing with the manager and customers agreeing that it was bullshit they ended up giving me 150 dollars store credit and some Spectre racing seats. I've never heard of these seats but they look like a rip off bride. I have no intent on using cheap ass seats that might possibly kill me in a accident however it was a victory and I took it.

From now on I am checking the damn filter before I leave the store:banghead:
 
I got it figured out. Apparently they had a bad shipment of WIX filters and instead of weeding out the bad ones by the recall notice they felt as though they would simply issue store credit to those who brought them back.

The filters threads were all kinds of ####ed up to the point where I am shocked it even threaded at all in the first place. I changed my oil THREE MONTHS AGO and sure enough my old WIX filter had a defect as well.

At first when I took them back to Shucks they tried to pass off some bullshit free filter and refund for the cost of the oil. Normally I would agree to something like this but really THREE MONTHS?! I really do wonder how long they have been sitting on messed up filters.

Anyway, after a lot of arguing with the manager and customers agreeing that it was bullshit they ended up giving me 150 dollars store credit and some Spectre racing seats. I've never heard of these seats but they look like a rip off bride. I have no intent on using cheap ass seats that might possibly kill me in a accident however it was a victory and I took it.

From now on I am checking the damn filter before I leave the store:banghead:


I'm glad you at least got some credit. Now get the oil and the filter and put it on the car to make sure this is the last you hear of this issue. Be sure to check the threads on the spindle before putting the filter on (just in case).
 
If you need a place to dump those seats, just let me know. :D

Glad you got the issue solved though. It's not uncommon for parts stores to do things like that. At Oreilly we had a recall on emergency hose repair kits. So we marked them 1/2 off and sold them like hot cakes. It's good they did something to make up for the issue, but still a good lesson on why you should always triple check parts from them.
 
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