The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

O2 Sensor Bypass [Merged 8-9] by pass oxy rear secondary catalyst cat converter

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

WNNAFLY

20+ Year Contributor
61
0
Oct 22, 2002
Toronto,
Hey guys,

I am trying to get rid of my rear O2 sensor.

I found this site. http://www.thefbody.com/~95tsiawd

I made the circuit and it still doesn't work. Still get the Service engine soon light that when a scaner is hooked up, points to the rear O2.

I couldn't find a 12 ohm ceramic resistor so I used two 10 ohm 12 watt ceramic resistors for the heating circuit. This still gets really hot?

Those resistors should be enought to handle the 1 amp of currant that heats the sensor up according to ohms law.

Has anyone on here tried this? If you have can you tell me what you did?

Thanks

Adam
 
Omega said:
Shitshack has the 1M ohm resistors in their huge bundle pack.

Even my local hole in the wall electronics store sold out and sells other stuff now. Basicly they have forced you to buy from www.digikey.com. Not a bad thing, they ship pretty quickly and have everything you could ever need. That is there I bought the heat sinked resistors when I built mine.

I am pretty sure that the summit and all the other eliminators don't have the heater element bypass. The cheap ones only seem to have the signal bypass.

Just wondering though..if I don't bypass the heater element, but have that premade O2 sensor simulator in, what will it affect?
 
a_scobel said:
Just wondering though..if I don't bypass the heater element, but have that premade O2 sensor simulator in, what will it affect?

It'll still throw a code. It can tell if there's no heater element or equivalent load in our case. It might not throw one right away, but it'd be in there and if you live in one of those states where they check codes when doing emissions...

-M
 
spoolup said:
My bad, when typing for some reason was thingk 470K, dont ask how I screwed that one up. Which would be close to the value of 1M. Guess the ear ache I have has affected me more than I thought. Sorry for the typo. I guess I need to lay off the amoxocin and naperson (doubt I spelled either of those 2 correctly). But still its easy math and I screwed it up so thats really no excuse.

I would still go with a good wirewound resistor on the heater line. Cheap, good service and fast shipping. http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&Webpage_ID=3&DID=7&CAT_ID=41&ObjectGroup_ID=540&SO=2

So I have the 1M Ohm Capacitor and the micro-farad capacitor..I just need the ~12 ohm resistor now.

Out of the resistors in that link you gave me, which one do I need? When a resistor says, for example, "20 watt wire wound resistors with 10% tolerance.", does that mean it can dissipate at least 12 watts, or do I need one that says 12 or lower?? Just kinda threw me off since all those resistors are 20 watt resistors...thanks again!
 
a_scobel said:
So I have the 1M Ohm Capacitor and the micro-farad capacitor..I just need the ~12 ohm resistor now.

Out of the resistors in that link you gave me, which one do I need? When a resistor says, for example, "20 watt wire wound resistors with 10% tolerance.", does that mean it can dissipate at least 12 watts, or do I need one that says 12 or lower?? Just kinda threw me off since all those resistors are 20 watt resistors...thanks again!

1M ohm is a resistor. You need a ~12 ohm resistor that can handle at least 12W of power. 20 > 12, but three 50ohm 10W resistors from radioshack will work fine and you can get it done today.

The 10% tolerance means a 12 ohm resistor can be as low as 11.88 ohms or as high as 12.12 ohms.

-M
 
miden said:
1M ohm is a resistor. You need a ~12 ohm resistor that can handle at least 12W of power. 20 > 12, but three 50ohm 10W resistors from radioshack will work fine and you can get it done today.

The 10% tolerance means a 12 ohm resistor can be as low as 11.88 ohms or as high as 12.12 ohms.

-M

Awesome..that should be it then. Thanks! I'll reply later to tell if my car caught fire or not... :D
 
I just did this today and it worked I used the 3 wire wound things that miden mentioned to use and they worked they get kinda hot but not hot enough you cant hold onto them. no fires yet LOL
 
when i popped an injector resistor, i used their 25W 8ohm non-inductive resistors as ballast. they don't even get warm after an hour of driving. you could use two of these in series as well and not worry a lick about them getting hot.

i hate radioshack. they're even phasing out their logic components in favor of cell phones.

they should change their slogan to: "radio shack- you've got questions, we've got blank stares."
 
I know I can bypass the cat converter o2 sensor, can the same thing be done to the one on the manifold? I am experiancing issues with my car and I think the knock sensor and o2 sensor might have somthing to do with it. So I will replace my knock sensor just to be sure, but if I bypass my o2 sensor on the manifold will I be able to use a s-afc2 anymore?

Let me know, and if it can be done some directions in plain english would be great. I am familier with resistors and such so let me know. thanks.
 
you should not bypass the front o2 sensor. in closed loop the car uses this sensor to adjust fuel, if you remove it you will be putting the car into continuous open loop. if you think your gas mileage sucks now...you have not seen nothing yet.


jim
 
Ok, I'm looking into bypassing my rear o2 and after some searching and reading I'm still a little confused.

The link in the tech guide is pretty straightforward:

http://www.dsmtuner.com/forums/showthread.php?t=221951

But his diagram doesnt match the actual pictures. In the diagram he has the capacitor and resistor in the opposite spots. The diagram shows the resistor first, then the cap at the end of the blue and white wires. But in the actual picture, he has the cap hooked up first, and then the resistor at the ends.

I looked at vfaq....

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/O2bypass.html

And the diagram matches the actual pictures from the tech write up.....

I'm assuming the vfaq and the actual pics from the tech article are correct....
AM I RIGHT?
:beatentodeath:
 
I hooked up my bypass setup today and I used a 15ohm 25w resistor on the heater side and it bothers me because it gets way too hot. I want to just unhook it and not even connect the blask wires. I know it will trip the cel light but I really don't care about that. All I want to know is will it mess with the ecu performance wise or just trip the ecu?
 
You should add more resistors in parallel across the heater circuit to spread the load, and reduce the heat.
 
I have heard of a few people doing that and some using heat sink but I was really wanting to know what it will do to the ecu. Will it just trip a code or will it mess with the a\f or something like that?
 
The downstream o2 sensor has nothing to do with engine performance, it is merely there to test the functionality of the catalytic converter. The o2 simulator only prevents CEL's from popping up, and you will run the same without it.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top