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O2 eliminator [Merged 11-8] removal sensor cel disable

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~97TalonTSi~

20+ Year Contributor
177
0
Jun 17, 2002
Livonia, Michigan
This may be a newbie question, I have never really thought of doing this until now. My question is why remove the O2 sensor? Which one is removed? Are there any electrical parts to the removal? The reason I am asking is I will be getting the AGP L2R soon and Kevin recommended a 2.5" tubular o2 eliminator. So I guess I just need some info on what the benefits of removing the o2 sensor are.

Thanks
 
I just put on my 3" downpipe from rnr racing and got the cat eliminator. I read on a post a while back that there wasen't a hole for the last o2 sensor and that they recomended "Zip tieing it to the frame". I see how this would work tricking the 2nd o2 into thinking the cat is doing it's job but my problem is my 3" cat back already has a place for it. Since I got rid of my cat should I take out my 2nd o2 and plug the hole?:confused:
 
Put the O2 sensor in the hole thats there for it. The worst that could happen is a CEL would be thrown saying your cat is dead. There is no, I repeat, no performance loss from the CEL if you get one. Leave it in or out, its up to you. I would prefer to have it in its correct place than dangling from a line.
 
I guess my biggest problem is that I can't tell much of a performance gain from the pipe.:thumbdown I was just trying to figure out why this was. I am running the stock turbo though. Could this be why?
 
has anyone here with a 2g done the 2nd O2 senser eliminator mod? if so how'd it come out and how did the car run afterwards? i'm thinking about doing this mod because my 2nd O2 sensor is bad because i put a cat-delete downpipe on and now the car runs rich so any feedback would be nice
 
I'll second that. Great mod to do.

*Props on the hot 2gb white and black Talon :thumb: *
 
ok i did the mod....unpuggled the harness and on the O2 sensor side put a 1Mohm resistor and a micro farad capacitator between the ends of the blue n white wires. and between the ends of the black wires i put a 12k ohm resistor...taped everything up real good..turned the car on and all seemed well until i revved up the motor and the cel came back on....is this normal?
 
I've heard both sides to the light and limp mode thing. Some poeple say there's no such thing, other's say they can feel the difference. What could be so different between a '97, which most of you guys seem to have and a '98? I've run a 3"dp and test pipe and never gotten a CEL.
 
yes i plugged it back in....and it seemed to run better even though my cel was on now......for a short amount of time....then after some hard runs it started jerking and missfiring again....so i've come to the conclusion that along with a bag 2nd O2 sensor my plugs and wires are also bad so hopefully the missfiring will stop after i change those......anyone got some suggestions on a plug type and wire size?
 
I'll second that I use NGK Iridium Plugs & Accel 8mm ThunderSport Wires. If they are arcing to the valve cover, alot of times you can see it at night with the hood up. Also pull the code for your CEL. Theres a chance its related to a different problem.
 
did the mod on my 96 tsi and going to be doing it on my 98 gst. the talon runs excellent. my logger sayd the o2 sensor is reading fine it should be like .02 voltage. make sure you get the right parts and installed them right. make sure everything is heatshrinked or waterproofed.
 
My shop manual says:
- If the rear O2 sensor fails, the car will perform closed loop control based on the front O2 sensor.

I will have to read further since I thought the car only uses the front sensor anyway for closed loop control. I have had mine zip tied under the car for a few years and get a CEL about once a year. My gas mileage is about 24mpg so I definately must be OK.

For the non-turbo, my manual says if the downstream O2 sensor fails, the car will operate in open loop. Maybe this is where people get confused and mis-state information.
 
i almost forgot i just got my inspection sticker and if you live in mass you know the emissions are a pain in the ass, but the guy even looked under my car and said while scratching head "it passed! i dont know how but it passed. haha he could see my o2 sensor cut and no cat with a 3 in ss dp. i have no codes and passes emission. cant get no better for a dollar worth of parts.
 
I bought a casper rear O2 simulator for like 40 bucks a few years ago and never had any CEL issues or anything. This was when I ran a full RNR 3" setup with no cat. I still use the rear O2 even with link, never any issues.

Casper is based out Chicago. Google them for more info. When I got mine I called and talked to one of the guys there, very helpful people. I guess a lot of supra owners run these things.
 
you dont need a 40 dollar unit youcan go to radio shack and get the parts for literally $2 hide all the wires and connectors under your coinsole next to your shifter. i had a full 3 in piping intoa real apexi n1 with 3 in inlet and never got a cel either youprobably never will because the sensor is right after the cat as long as you have a cat or the o2 eliminator installed you wont get a cel. both my cars are catlessand no resonators.
 
CanadianTSi said:
I just cut the wires and left it.

You used used to the light after awhile and it doesn't affect anything.

So you just cut the 2nd o2 sensor wires and left the sensor in. I get a CEL for P0136 2nd bank o2 sensor heater circuit. I could care less about the CEL but is this effecting my performance with the CEL code and is it better to just cut the wires and leave the sensor in there?
 
cfisher said:
So you just cut the 2nd o2 sensor wires and left the sensor in. I get a CEL for P0136 2nd bank o2 sensor heater circuit. I could care less about the CEL but is this effecting my performance with the CEL code and is it better to just cut the wires and leave the sensor in there?

your black wires on the o2 sensor are either bad, cut or your sensor is just shot. if you do the mod at vfaq.com it will eliminate that code.
 
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