O2 eliminator [Merged 11-8] removal sensor cel disable

[~97TalonTSi~]

This may be a newbie question, I have never really thought of doing this until now. My question is why remove the O2 sensor? Which one is removed? Are there any electrical parts to the removal? The reason I am asking is I will be getting the AGP L2R soon and Kevin recommended a 2.5" tubular o2 eliminator. So I guess I just need some info on what the benefits of removing the o2 sensor are.

Thanks

 

[Stapl3]

Even if you have a bung with the rear o2 sensor in it wont matter if you have no cat. You will still need to do the vfaq mod for it because the rear sensor will have the same reading as the front which will throw a CEL.

We just discussed that the ECU apparently doesn't give a shit. Sounds great on the internet, but in real life it can just be electrically plugged in and be done with.

 

[allgripnoslip]

I have a 97 awd and I did the simulator from vfaq and I dont get any codes thrown. The only problem I have is that the resistor that they tell you to buy for the heater element part of the wire-up isnt strong enough to properly dissipate the current. It says "at least 12 watts of dissipation" but mines rated at 20w and its hot as hell. The electrical tape I had on it melted off within the first few miles. I didnt permanently mount it to check and make sure it didnt get too hot and Im glad I did. Next time I go to Radio Shack Im going to get at least 50-100w dissipation while its resistance is ~12 ohms and I suggest that for anyone who wants to do this also. But like I said I have not thrown anycodes, except for the ones triggered by the missing bcs... Anyone have an extra BCS and the plug that comes from the harness?

 

[domenico_169]

so what exactly do i need to ask for when i go to radio shack? and like i mentioned before, i can just cover the o2 sensor with something to protect it and zip tie it up?

 

[allgripnoslip]

1- 1M Ohm (1,000,000 ohm)
1- 1Micro Farad capacitor
1- around 12 ohm resistor that can dissipate AT LEAST 50watts

http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html
GO to Exhuast and at the botom of that there will be "O2 Sensor - Eliminate 2nd O2 Sensor"
Read that a few times until it becomes clear as to what you are doing, you just cut off the 2nd O2 as close as you can to the actual sensor so you have some wire to work with.

 

[BoBbOrAzE]

you can take more than one 12+ watt resistor and wire them in parallel and that will definitely help the heating problem. A lot of people use three 50 ohm 10 watt resistors in parallel with no heating problems at all. (Mostly because most radioshacks do not carry resistors over 10w)

~ you can even attach a simple $2 heatsink if you really want to keep the temperatures down

good luck

 

[DiamondStarM]

We just discussed that the ECU apparently doesn't give a shit. Sounds great on the internet, but in real life it can just be electrically plugged in and be done with.

Maybe not on your car, but just being plugged in is incorrect and the ECU does give a shit. In real life on a properly running car is matters.

 

[exzercist]

Maybe not on your car, but just being plugged in is incorrect and the ECU does give a shit. In real life on a properly running car is matters.

Agreed I have two cars that run good and the odb2 works perfectly. do the people that dont throw codes with the o2 sensor out just taped up, are you guys checking with some sort of logger. I have pocket logger and i can check all codes. for the people that have the o2 taped outside the car and dont throw a code what is the o2 voltage for bank 2 (rear)? when i first bought my talon i checked my pocket logger for any CELs before i bought it and a sensor was bad. there was no engine light, all it was is the bulb was burned out.

 

[ratherbriding99]

I did thishttp://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=221951 and now i'm getting a code for rear oxygen sensor heater failure. Anyone else get this, or have any ideas as to what i could have done wrong. Might it be different for a 95 sebring?

 

[VelocitàPaola]

I'm guessing you didn't wire up the 50ohm/10watt resistors properly. Those are the resistors responsible for dissipating the current from the heater circuit.

 

[ratherbriding99]

are resistors directional. i have all three of them parallel, one of my friends said some resistors have a positive and negative side, althought it was in a basic robotics book that he's reading so he wasn't sure about the application of them.
Anyways would it matter if the resistor is touching the metal of the box? the wires aren't but the resistor is.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Resistors aren't directional, but...

Anyways would it matter if the resistor is touching the metal of the box? the wires aren't but the resistor is.

This would make a difference. If the wires are touching that metal box, you're effectively shorting out the circuit, disabling the function of the resistors altogether (since electricity takes the path of least resistance, and that metal box is definitely offering a path of less resistance that those bulky resistors).

You need to insulate everything really well before putting the circuit inside of an enclosure, especially a metal one.

 

[ratherbriding99]

i insulated the whole inside of the box with electrical tape but i'm still getting the cel.

 

[420a-t]

i dont know if you wanted to do this but all i did was solder a 1/4watt 1 megaohm resistor to the black wire of my o2 and it works perfect. no cel...

 

[ratherbriding99]

well i checked the impedance on the heater resistors and it was 15.5 ohms. So i removed them all and rewired them with new wire and different connectors, when i put the two on it was exactly 25 ohms but when i put the third one on its 16. So i searched on google for a resistance calculator and i plugged in 3 50's and it comes up to 16 and 2/3. Then plugged in 4 50's and it came out to 12.5 which is what the vfaq says. I just figured i'd inform you guys, i'm going to throw another resistor on there tommorow.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

If you think of resistors as bottlenecks in a piping system... the more you have, the more water will be able to get by. Similarly, the more resistors you have, the more current will be able to get by; thus the total resistance is decreased.

The resistors hooked up in parallel are really only there to dissipate the enormous amount of current that's sent back there to heat up the O2 sensor. Three or so 10 watt resistors should really be all you need. More can't hurt though.

 

[chris712vt]

hey guys I've been looking into some sort of O2 eliminator or simulator the past few days.

a friend told me he bought this exact product to use on his civic si and it worked perfectly. what are your opinions on this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...&item=110050912519&sspagename=ADME:B:AAQ:US:1

there isn't a very detailed description of what it is, or how it's installed, but i assume it is just a pre-made version of what you're talking about above?

please let me know if you think it's a good idea or not. like i said a friend got one and said it worked so it isn't a scam.


EDIT: see below for much more info and wiring diagrams

 

[chris712vt]

http://www.adaptiveperformance.com/

click the NEWS link to see the more descriptive info and all. seems like a good product to me... what do you think?

 

[cirilo]

can anyone give me like a good website to buy a o2 liminator. they dont sell them on ebay anymore.

 

[luv2rallye]

Make your own:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=221951
or
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/O2bypass.html