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NOT! another high oil pressure thread.

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dosntknow

10+ Year Contributor
41
0
Feb 12, 2011
Richland, Mississippi
Hi all. I had to replace a head gasket recently and found out the owner before me had deleted the balance shafts. Well while I was in there i also had some oil leaks. You know, oil pan, front case, crank seal, valve cover, basically everything. So when i found out about the balance shafts I was like "Cool one less mod I have to do". After I got it all put back together and running I found out I had really high oil pressure.... Dough :banghead:

After reading all the high oil pressure threads something occurred to me. Everyone keeps talking about porting the relief valve. Why not just block off the stock one and install an external oil pressure relief valve. Our oil filter housing has ports that are not being used for anything. And most the time the ports i see are about a half inch. So just run a pressure relief valve from one of the blocked off passages to oil pan. In theory its alot easier and you dont need anything but the valve, some hose, and some fittings. Can even tie it into the oil return line from the turbo.

Parts would be valve, http://cloudfront.zorotools.com/product/full/3EEX4_AS01.JPG 90* fitting from oil filter housing to hose that leads to valve that leads to Billet Turbo Oil Return Fitting Precision Turbo T3 T3 T4 T04 T4 TO4 GT40R GT42R | eBay with this Canton Fitting NPT Toan Adapter Fitting Two 10AN Male to 1 2" NPT Male Tee | eBay screwed into it.

I am thinking of doing this just wanted someone else's opinion, will run me 30-40 $ seeing as I already have some of the parts. Also I dont have to buy or borrow a Dremel, or have to worry about going to far and messing up a good oil filter housing. This will also give me the ability to set the pressure at different ranges to get the desired oil pressure I'm searching for. Last it should be alot less time consuming. Yes :thumb: No :notgood:?

Here is a diagram that may help...
 

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You can port your OFH for free. Far easier than what you are trying to do. I'm not saying it won't work, but you could run into other problems trying to reinvent the wheel.
 
You can port your OFH for free. Far easier than what you are trying to do. I'm not saying it won't work, but you could run into other problems trying to reinvent the wheel.

Its just a line with a valve in it whats hard?

Unless that little "valve" has some sort of ball/spring, hard to tell by the picture, I don't think you have thought this all the way through.

Its a pressure relief valve. You set it to lets say 75psi. It wont open till then.

Same thing as Peterson Fluid Systems 09-0160 Peterson Fluid Systems Remote Relief Valves
 
Uh, you want to eliminate the EXISTING RELIVE VALVE to add a different relief valve? Sounds really counter productive to me. Just port the damned thing, it fixes the problem more often than not. It's really easy. And you don't have to remove and weld the oil pan either.
 
Why would I remove and weld the oil pan?

Ok so i think people are over thinking this...

Simplified basicaly just running a line from pressure side of OFH to T into oil drain line from turbo.

May not even do anything with stock relief valve.

New PRV is adjustable, set and forget. Would only take about 10 min and the only thing I would have to remove from veh is allen bolt that is plugging an outlet.
 
Looks like a good way to kill your turbo. At the RPMs required to build enough pressure to open the relief valve, your turbo will be screaming and it will need as much of the return line as possible. And you DO NOT want to share that line with the large amount of relieved oil, and you defiantly do not want excess bleed off pressure to feed back into your turbo.

I like that you're thinking outside of the box, but this is simply an over complicated and more expensive way to do exactly what the OFH port mod does.

Port your relief valve.
 
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Seeing as your supposed to have a restrictor on your feed line your turbo shouldnt be "screeming".

At the RPMs required to build enough pressure to open the relief valve

If its set at 75 psi then right now I would hit that at 1000 rpms. Remember this is to take the place of, or help the OFH port. and most feed lines are 1/4 braided metal line with a restrictor and return line is 1/2 hose/ braided line should have plenty of room. The volume going in is not going to be more than whats coming out.

and you defiantly do not want excess bleed off pressure to feed back into your turbo.

A check valve/ flow valve would work.

Really no one thinks this would work??:confused:
 
I voted high oil pressure. Would you rather have high or low oil pressure?

Then again, all my seals and gaskets are practically brand new. If they were in bad condition, it would be a different story.
 
I voted high oil pressure. Would you rather have high or low oil pressure?

Then again, all my seals and gaskets are practically brand new. If they were in bad condition, it would be a different story.

The vote was rather it was a good idea or not.

Far as high or low, the lowest the oil pressure would be while the valve was open would be whatever the valve was set to i.e. 75-80psi. While it was closed you would have normal oil pressure.
 
Seeing as your supposed to have a restrictor on your feed line your turbo shouldnt be "screeming".

120,000+ RPM shaft speed is screaming if you ask me. Ask JusMX141 how many turbos he has had to rebuild because of inadequate oil return.

If its set at 75 psi then right now I would hit that at 1000 rpms. Remember this is to take the place of, or help the OFH port. and most feed lines are 1/4 braided metal line with a restrictor and return line is 1/2 hose/ braided line should have plenty of room. The volume going in is not going to be more than whats coming out.

Really no one thinks this would work??:confused:

The 1/4" restricted feed line is under pressure, the 1/2" is return line is not under pressure. Therefor the feed can EASILY out flow the return. That's why people have massive crankcase vents, so they can alleviate the couple psi of crank case pressure doesn't hinder the oil return.

But if you want to do it, by all means, knock your self out.

Anyway, this is cutting into my drinking time. Have a good night

EDIT: no one is saying it won't work. But it is an over complicated work around to something that is known to work, and in the process could cause more harm than good.... Back to drinking now
 
no one is saying it won't work. But it is an over complicated work around to something that is known to work.

That's what I don't get. Your calling it over complicated. IMO installing a line is much easier than grinding part of your OFH off is. Even if I had to pull the oil pan and drill a hole for a 1/2 inch fitting I don't have to worry about the chamber being smooth so the plunger doesn't get caught, and if my pressure is still to high I have the option of turning the pressure down more with a simple turn of the knob till desired result is reached.

From my understanding you want about 80psi at max rpm. Right??
 
The Idea is good, But with out blocking the stock relief valve and adding a totally independent hole to the oil pan, so it doesn't share the turbo return line.

There is guy who install his holset and add a relief valve from the turbo feed line to the oil pan, But he used a 4an for the relief line and weld an extra bangle for the line to the oil pan, so it is not sharing the return line.

High oil pressure problems is more for the turbo and not for the engine it self, Just add a valve to the turbo feed line and routed back to the oil pan and you are set.

Definitely, I won't opt to block the stock relief valve which it as being tested to be efficient and reliable,
 
I wouldn't think 130+psi would be good for the motor. Where I work I have access to fittings that have seals on both sides that just needs a hole and wrench. Drilling a whole and adding that fitting, then attach the line with the release valve wouldn't take me 5 min. I already have my oil pan off.

The Idea is good, But with out blocking the stock relief valve and adding a totally independent hole to the oil pan, so it doesn't share the turbo return line.

That's what I was thinking. Just run it to help with the stock relief valve.

I think I'm going to try it. I will update with pics and info on how easy was and how well it works.

I just had to replace every gasket in the veh cause they all leaked. I bet it was from the previous owner deleting the BS and not having a way to relieve the pressure. With the age that is on my veh and the trouble I had to go to to replace my crank seal and front case I rather just be safe.
 
That's what I don't get. Your calling it over complicated. IMO installing a line is much easier than grinding part of your OFH off is. Even if I had to pull the oil pan and drill a hole for a 1/2 inch fitting I don't have to worry about the chamber being smooth so the plunger doesn't get caught, and if my pressure is still to high I have the option of turning the pressure down more with a simple turn of the knob till desired result is reached.

From my understanding you want about 80psi at max rpm. Right??

The OFH is aluminum. A carbide bit eats through that shit like candy. It took me maybe three minutes to port the filter housing, and make sure it was deburred. I cleaned it, put it back together, and bolted it on. VERY simple, and does not require additional parts.

Your idea adds parts. More parts = more complicated and more time involved. Removing the pan, drilling the pan, welding a fitting (the pan is far to thin to simply tap), adding another line, and adding a pressure relief valve.

As for oil pressure. That is completely depended on the turbo. Holsets have a different max pressure than MHIs. MHIs are different than Garrets. Journal bearings are different than ball bearings ect.

Again, I'm not saying it wouldn't work, I'm saying it's more involved and has is an added point of failure or leaking. Porting the filter housing is simple, effective, and proven.
 
Your idea adds parts. More parts = more complicated and more time involved. Removing the pan, drilling the pan, welding a fitting (the pan is far to thin to simply tap), adding another line, and adding a pressure relief valve.

I wasn't going to tap. Its a fitting that has a seal on each side held on by a nut. Its used on tractor tires for upwards of 300psi. So just a simple drill a hole works fine...
 
whats the update on this? I think that it would work fine, and you wouldnt have to take off the OFH. I'm curious as to how this turned out for you!
 
A few day's after my last post on the way to work I noticed some motor know a little loud to be lifter tick. I work at a shop so pulled it on a rack and dropped oil pan...... Just my luck. Spun rod bearing. I had been using rotella t6 full synthetic 5w40 but cause of the high oil pressure went to a standard 10w30, and thats when the sound became apparent. Turns out i have had a spun bearing for some time. So now working on a full 9:1 compression rebuild. When i put it back together i will have race bearings with extra oil clearence shouldnt have high oil pressure then. If i do i will apply this mod.
 
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