Noobie questions about a Bolt-On Turbo system

[Alvin77]

Hey everyone. I've just got a few questions about a bolt-on turbo and was hoping for a little help with my 420A N/T

If I were to buy a complete kit, intercooler, turbo, bov, piping, etc etc etc. What is the difficulty level of the installation? I'm not a complete idiot, I know the ins and outs of my engine, whats what, and such. However I can't weld, and I have no experience with turbo engines. I know how a turbo works, and I know the generals about putting one on and the maintance and such. But I had just a few questions.

1) I've heard some things about oil lines and such, would I have to drill a hole in the oil pan and weld a fitting on?

2) The Intercooler, is there room for it as is? Would I have to make any bumper adjustments or modifications?

3) My exhaust system is cat-back for now, so would I have to modify anything in those areas?

4) I'm assuming my CAI would have to be modified or replaced in some way to make room for the turbo.


Basically my only real concern is the welding, which I don't know how to do.

Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

1) I've heard some things about oil lines and such, would I have to drill a hole in the oil pan and weld a fitting on?

Precisely... there's a way to do it without welding too (it's called a bulkhead fitting); but nothing beats a nice clean TIG welded oil pan.

2) The Intercooler, is there room for it as is? Would I have to make any bumper adjustments or modifications?

Probably... you'll have to modify the front bumper for most FMIC's. There shouldn't be any huge modifications for a SMIC, though.

3) My exhaust system is cat-back for now, so would I have to modify anything in those areas?

Well you'll need to make, or have made, a new downpipe to connect the turbo to the rest of the exhaust.

4) I'm assuming my CAI would have to be modified or replaced in some way to make room for the turbo.

Yes, it would.


I'm sure others will jump in and tell you the same thing... but research as much as possible. It doesn't sound as though you are quite ready to tackle a turbosystem install.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181134&

 

[ivan300]

as VelocitàPaola already answered every question

Best advice i can give you is just keep reading. A few months ago i did not know what a turbo was. Now i am ready to install my turbo kit just waiting for fedex to get it here.

The beauty of this site and 2gnt.com is that just about every question has been answered you just have to take time and search for them.

Good luck with your install and keep us updated

 

[4UH8ERS]

You will no longer have a CAI, your intercooler piping will connect to your throttle body.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

The level of difficulty really depends on your knowledge and experience. This is definitely a time consuming job, and no walk in the park but with a little more research and reading you will be prepared to tackle the job.

The oil lines were probably my least favorite part of the job. Especially the feed. Just because of the akward position you will be forced in to tighten all of those fittings.

 

[Blitzeclips]

The oil lines were probably my least favorite part of the job. Especially the feed. Just because of the akward position you will be forced in to tighten all of those fittings.

Really? Hmm.. You see, I thought those were the easiest!

My least favorite part of the install was the fuel pump. Not because it's hard or anything, but Mitsubishi has such a shitty fuel set-up it's rediculous. Getting the return line back on without pinching the line is a joke. You literally need to twist the line in the opposite direction you plan to screw it so the line is clean without bends after final tightening. But yeah, what a horrible design..

That and making the I/C fit because I took my front bumper off ATLEAST 12 times...

 

[dsmclipse97]

look at the 420A turbo conversion section... a few people are going through builds right now.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

Really? Hmm.. You see, I thought those were the easiest!

My least favorite part of the install was the fuel pump. Not because it's hard or anything, but Mitsubishi has such a shitty fuel set-up it's rediculous. Getting the return line back on without pinching the line is a joke. You literally need to twist the line in the opposite direction you plan to screw it so the line is clean without bends after final tightening. But yeah, what a horrible design..

The fuel pump is by far one of the easiest tasks. I'm sure I'm not the only one who agree's with this. Using the appropriate wrench you shouldn't have a problem. It will be hard to break loose at first but PB blaster will help. Do be sure not to put alot of twisting pressure on the hard line, if you twist and kink that, you'll have to get a whole new pump assembly. As for the rubber line, you shouldn't have to twist it in the counter-clockwise before tightening, there should be a fitting on the hard line side that rotates. (this part is to blitz)That aside, you could still go under the car and unbolt the line from the next connection which is about a foot or two away from the pump, makes things much easier.

I hated oil lines because of the lack of wrench room availible, and the way you had to position yourself to get your arm bent correctly to turn the wrench(basically blind) unless you want debris falling in your face the whole time. I'd rather sit in a back seat compartment any day.

 

[Shadow98]

The oil lines were probably my least favorite part of the job. Especially the feed. Just because of the akward position you will be forced in to tighten all of those fittings.

I agree with you on this, and the IC piping, which I will be redoing this week.

 

[totaleclipse_05]

When I helped Josh do his IC piping, it kinda sucked, but when I did mine, it went rather well. Pretty straight forward with the setup I had.

Oil line was a little PITA and definitely took the longest. I'm not sure, when I did the talon, I didn't really have too many problems putting it on. I guess when you do it once (or twice), the next time isn't so bad.

 

[cs82685]

getting stock downpipe off was a bi*** (lots of rust)

getting the new downpipe on was a bi*** (star w/no flex section doesnt work wonderfully probably woulda helped if I loosened up the catback but I didn't)

Oil feed haha my dad got stuck with that part. Just know you need a 1 1/16 inch deep socket to get the oil pressuer sending unit out.

Trying to get -4an line on the return on the top of the tank is a bi*** (sfmu setup, cut up my fingers a lot with the ss line)

You will probably have to remove the bumper support or cut away some of it (I just took it off)


Everything is pretty much bolton though with some reading you will be good to go. Also it's good to know a little wiring for gauges

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Ha, yeah... I thought the oil lines were the worst. Especially the feed line. I remember being incredibly strapped for time, and trying to finish that oil line at 7:00am. I had no car to get around, and no socket to remove the sender. By some incredible stroke of luck (or act of God), a MAC tool truck pulled up next to the garage, and he just happened to have a 1 1/16" OPSU socket.

With the right tools, it's not too bad. Just make sure you tighten all fittings as much as possible!

 

[Shadow98]

I just used a wrench to take out the OPSU. Don't remember what size, but it took a long long time, because you don't have very much room at all.

 

[totaleclipse_05]

Downpipes can be a pain, but nothing a little reciprocating saw can't take care off

 

[4UH8ERS]

Downpipes can be a pain, but nothing a little reciprocating saw can't take care off

. Probably not the best way to remove it, but that will definately do it.

 

[cs82685]

Downpipes can be a pain, but nothing a little reciprocating saw can't take care off

. Probably not the best way to remove it, but that will definately do it.

I had to use a grinder with a cutting wheel. That was the longest damn part of the whole thing finding something to get the downpipe removed from the cat. Spent half the damn day trying different things to get it off before going to the grinder

 

[link16]

I guess you guys never heard of the "Saws all," they call it that for a reason, you know. It sounds gruesome for what I will be undergoing in about a week or two when I get my block back from the machine shop.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

Totaleclipse_05 was referring to a sawsall by reciprocating saw.

 

[link16]

I know, I just know it by a sawsall. Sounds so much cooler. Thanks for taking the wind out of my sails. Just kidding. Lol.

 

[totaleclipse_05]

Isn't Sawsall a brand? That's why I just said Reciprocating Saw. Kind of like Vice Grips=Locking Pliars.

 

[link16]

If it is a brand, you don't see much of it here is MD. Almost had my arm taken off by a reciprocating saw once, was holding the exhaust of a viper as the owner was cutting out the cats.

 

[4UH8ERS]

A little trick I use if you have a day to spare.
I take my Dremel with the wire wheel and buzz of all the rust and buildup i can around the gasket and bolts. Then put some PB blaster on it nice and heavy let it sit overnight. Wake up spray it again, wait 30 minutes and give it a nice yank.