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no spark! engine turns& fuel is there.

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There was a 6 bolt motor in it and the timing belt broke and i put a 7bolt back in and hooked all sensors up the wiring is right double checked everything but there is no spark. the cam and crank sensor are both hooked up there is fuel in the fuel rail so I have that jus no spark.
 
Did you reconnect the wire that you have to cut for the 1g cas to work when you do a 6 bolt swap?
 
I have the same problem...I was revving the car at a rather high RPM...about 7 or 8 ( noob move ) ....after i launched the car would'nt even turn over..In other forum's i was told it could be the coil pack, power transistor, or ECU....well it was all three bought a new ECU replaced Coil packs and transistor...Car still doesn't seem to start ... Fuel goes all the way up to fuel rail and doesnt pass thru fuel injectors to start...And also like clipse...NO spark at all......Any opinions...I'm open to trying anything any1 has to say...I really need my car ...Lost my job and its stopping me from getting a new one ..please help i really need it...
 
There Is A Good Pos. Ujumped Time Check The Timing Marks On The Cam Gears Line Them Up And Then Check Hermonic Balancer Make Sure Its Lined Up
 
There was a 6 bolt motor in it and the timing belt broke and i put a 7bolt back in and hooked all sensors up the wiring is right double checked everything but there is no spark. the cam and crank sensor are both hooked up there is fuel in the fuel rail so I have that jus no spark.

Have you checked for spark? Visually checked for it? After that, check wires, after that check coil. After that check ECU.
 
Two items to check:

1) When you do a 6 bolt swap (using the 1G CAS) on a 95-96, the cam signals end up inverted and the plug wires have to be swapped (wires from the 1&4 coil now go to the 2&3 coil and vice-versa) so that you are firing at the correct time. If the you replaced the entire engine / intake / coils/ wiring when swapping back, I would think you have this covered. Still, be sure that your plug wires go to the correct places or you'll be firing at the wrong times and the car won't run.

2) The cam sensor and crank sensors supply different circuit triggers. The crank sensor supplys the fuel triggers ad spark for two cylinders and the cam sensor supplies spark triggers for the other two, IIRC. If you don't have any spark at all, look to the power transistor to see if it is supplying a pulse to drive the coils or not.

Good luck & be sure to post what you find!
 
I have the same problem...I was revving the car at a rather high RPM...about 7 or 8 ( noob move ) ....after i launched the car would'nt even turn over..In other forum's i was told it could be the coil pack, power transistor, or ECU....well it was all three bought a new ECU replaced Coil packs and transistor...Car still doesn't seem to start ... Fuel goes all the way up to fuel rail and doesnt pass thru fuel injectors to start...And also like clipse...NO spark at all......Any opinions...I'm open to trying anything any1 has to say...I really need my car ...Lost my job and its stopping me from getting a new one ..please help i really need it...

Pull the injectors from the head, but leave them hooked up. Crank the engine once or twice (or pull the cas and spin it) and you should see the injectors fire little puffs of fuel. If they're not, listen for at least a tick so you know they're actuating. If not then you probably have an electrical problem with them getting juice or your CAS might be bad. Also, double check that fuel is getting to the rail by disconnecting the return line from the FPR and crank it once very quickly. If a little spit of gas pops out the end then you know you're definitely getting fuel to the rail. If you're getting fuel to the rail but the injectors aren't firing and the plugs aren't sparking when you crank the motor/spin the CAS, then you know the CAS is probably bad or maybe a wire is.
 
Could be the crank angle sensor if it is a 7 bolt motor. I done some work on a friends last summer. A few days later the car just up and died on me and wouldn't start back. After checking every thing out I determined that it was getting any spark. I replaced the crank angle sensor on the crank and the car started right up. Hope this helps out.
 
Dude I have the same problem. I have also tried replacing everything. I think that there is a sensor that went bad or something. LOL
 
New to this forum, but I guess reviving a thread.

Same scenario, replaced fuel pump, and the EFI relay. When I probe the coil (ignition on) there's power. Has fuel (spitting from return)...There's just no spark.

I dont know what to look for next. I have access to a CAS, so wondering if that may be the culprit. All of these last posts are open ended and theres no solution. Any help will help. Thanks
 
i had the same problem, check the MPI relay its under the radio if you dont feel like testing it with your voltmeter take it apart and have some one make contact with both of the contact points and see if anything changes, this problem took me litteraly 3 months to find and confirm so keep an open mind on what could be wrong.
 
an update....hooked up a jumper wire to switched 12 volt power from the battery to the red wire in the CAS harness.

without knowing at first, I wasn't getting a check engine light on power on. replaced with new ecu nothing, as well as new coil, new pump, and new ignition module. when I hook up the jumper wire I hear some clicking near the injectors/ABS unit. idk, but cars running and got to work!

what would cause this? any help. maybe this could help others
 
well in additon to that the ground wire from the intake manifold to the fire wall kept melting. So does that mean there is a short somewhere?

Check the main engine ground wire coming from the battery to bellhouing on the transmission. It sounds like its loose or not connected at all, and this is causing all of the current requiered to run the starter to ground through one small wire. The current overloading of that wire is whats causing it to melt. This also has the potental to back feed current through the sensor grounds and may damage those circuits or the componates on them.
 
an update....hooked up a jumper wire to switched 12 volt power from the battery to the red wire in the CAS harness.

without knowing at first, I wasn't getting a check engine light on power on. replaced with new ecu nothing, as well as new coil, new pump, and new ignition module. when I hook up the jumper wire I hear some clicking near the injectors/ABS unit. idk, but cars running and got to work!

what would cause this? any help. maybe this could help others

With the jumper wire removed and the ignition key on, use a multi meter to check for 12 volts positive voltage at the the fuel injectors, the coil, and the CAS. If no voltage is present, check your MPI fuse at the battery to see if it is blown. If not, remove the connector from the MPI relay in the center console. Use a jumper wire to jumper pin #4 (12 volt + in) to pins #2, and #3. This will bypass the MPI relay and should provide 12v + to the componates above. If this works, then you have a fauly MPI relay.
 
ya i have same problem with no spark changed the cps and nothing happened my car just shut off on the freeway when i was slowing down getting off ...
 
Hey Guy's.... I Had The Same Problem With "no Spark" After My Most Recent Rebuild. I Went Through All Of The Steps You Guys Have Listed And Had The Same Result...none! All Of These Are Realy Good Ideas And Should All Be Taken Into Account When Dealing With This Problem But Do Yourself A Favor, Check The Wires That Run From The Relay Under The Radio To The Computer. 9 Times Out Of 10( 90% Of The Time) There Has Been An Alarm Relay Spliced In That Is No Longer Working Or Has Just Come Loose. I Have Had To Take A Dozen Or So Out Of Cars In The Last Couple Of Years. I Hope This Helps...good Luck!
 
I would definatley suggest for anyone who DOESNT have power at the red wire in the Crank Sensor Harness. To jump it with power from the battery.... This should get you spark....

Seems to be the only way I can even run my car is by doing this. Otherwise my car would be completely useless!

I hope all of you who have problems, check for voltage. Will hopefully make many days and many headaches saved. BTW Its been a week and a half or so and it runs like it never died.
 
i have a problume with the spark i am getting some spark but not all both ends wich is 1 and 4 is getting spark but 2 and 3 is not sparking tryed to swiching spark plug coils to diffrent area but the same thing happens the end spark but the 2 middle ones don't what do i do what do i check any thing helps?
 
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