No disengagement after clutch replacement

[boostedtsi0069]

Well hey guys it was time to change my clutch and i was low on moneyso i had to get a stock one. I work at a mechanic shop and ive done hundreds of clutches, so here we go i dropped the tranny everythings going good and i notice my flywheel had cracks on it so i send it to the machine shop to get resurfaced. It was resurfaced to OEM specs which i myself checked. So i put everything back on i turn on the car (clutch swith is disconected) while in tha air on the lift and no gear wanted to go in, the clutch wasnt being realeased well. I dont know if the clutch was too thick (which has happened in the past) or the flywheel but right now im going crazy. i dropped it again and put washers between pressure plate and flywheel and it didnt work but when i did put the washers it got better, like before the washers i would turn it on with the gear in place and it would throw forward but now it moves slightly. Should i put fatter washers or what. Help please

 

[JayRolla]

You shouldnt have to put nothing on. If the flywheel is surfaced correctly and its a true OEM clutch and you got the right clutch for your application it will work fine. Did you make sure you have no air in the clutch fluid. Make sure the master cylinder is properly adjusted.

 

[Dream On]

Disengagement problems can come from a variety of things. Check the play in your clutch pedal first. If it isn't moving the master cylinder rod almost as soon as you touch the clutch, you may have to weld the pedal assembly. There should be a small amount of play, but not much. Another thing could be that the pivot ball/clutch fork is worn. If you don't have the cash to replace them (~$70 or so) then try putting some washers under the pivot ball to make up for the wear. Your slave or master cylinder may also need replaced, so check them for leaks as well. I'd bet it's one of the above, so check them out, and good luck.

 

[Defiant]

I work at a mechanic shop and ive done hundreds of clutches
----
I dont know if the clutch was too thick (which has happened in the past) or the flywheel but right now im going crazy. i dropped it again and put washers between pressure plate and flywheel

Holy fcuk, what the hell kind of shop ever let you hear about such a jackass adjustment, let alone ever let you carry it out?
The clutch cover mounts against the flywheel. Flat. No damned spacers.
If you were the one who checked the flywheel after machining, did you measure and confirm the step?
Have you opened the bleeder on the slave and let the clutch adjust itself?
Had you been messing with the pedal height in the past while trying to put-off doing the clutch replacement, and are now blocking the return bleed in the master cylinder?

Good damned god.

 

[boostedtsi0069]

Holy fcuk, what the hell kind of shop ever let you hear about such a jackass adjustment, let alone ever let you carry it out?
The clutch cover mounts against the flywheel. Flat. No damned spacers.
If you were the one who checked the flywheel after machining, did you measure and confirm the step?
Have you opened the bleeder on the slave and let the clutch adjust itself?
Had you been messing with the pedal height in the past while trying to put-off doing the clutch replacement, and are now blocking the return bleed in the master cylinder?

Good damned god.

What do you mean let the clutch adjust itself? I bled the slave but how does it do it by itself? I did measure the flywhell its was 609 which is to specifications, and and the peadl is fine.