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NGR BOV

iloveboost

Proven Member
46
1
Jul 25, 2014
Vacaville, California
I just got an NGR BOV on the recent group buy. I need help with the install. I am still a noob so I need some help with this thing (if it is even the problem). I have a wideband and boost gauge. I also have Halman pro MBC. I couldnt get the boost to go about 14 no matter how much I turned up the MBC. I have no leaks that I could find but I figured the stock BOV which I have heard leaks badly may have been the problem. So, I install the NGR today. Sounds great and seems to work right as far as clearing boost when off the throttle. Problem is now my car wants to over boost, like creep to infinity. So I have double checked the MBC lines and check the lines going to the BOV. I also backed the MBC out all the way. Still over boosts. I have the BOV setup with an adapter to the stock system. I read that the lower Vacuum line is optional and creates positive pressure on the inside of the BOV for quicker operation usually for higher PSI applications (that was for similar S Type Greddy). So if I am not using it do I have to block it off? I am at a loss for why I am overboosting, headed for past 20 PSI by 4500 RPMs. Somebody tell me how I am supposed to hook this up correctly or just what I am doing wrong
 

Priority DSM

Proven Member
156
32
Dec 16, 2014
Marysville, California
You don't block off the bottom nipple.

As for over boost, thats a tough one to diagnose. You should pull your MBC and just run waste gate to boost source line and see if you are getting factory WG boost level (14psi).

If you have a turbo back exhaust with test pipe, you might see up to 16-18 on the wastegate. 20+ seems like an issue.

The BOV should have no real effect on the spike unless you have a leak or its set way too soft allowing boost to blow by. Try taking out the adjustment screw on the top of the BOV and give it a little Teflon tape. Screw the adjuster down until you feel it touch then give it 1-2 extra turns beyond that to put some tension on the spring.

After doing all this and your boost is stable you can re-install your MBC to see if you get the spike. If so, you either hooked it up wrong or you have a faulty MBC.

This way you will be able to diagnose a bad wastegate actuator or other issue.

This is what I would do to check my work.

Always check for boost leaks. (with the boost leak tester that you bought or made....right...;) )

Good luck. Keep us posted.
 

vince93

Proven Member
33
1
Nov 1, 2008
Houston, Texas
Is that the only thing you changed on your set up?
 

iloveboost

Proven Member
46
1
Jul 25, 2014
Vacaville, California
Ok... Thanks for all the help. Turns out that the lower vacuum line coming off the turbo (source) and running to the MBC blew off. It was still sitting down under the turbo but was off the nipple. My bad for not reaching down there at the time. I didnt think to turn the MBC down when I switched BOVs. So my first pull without a leaky BOV must have had the PSI way too high.

So everything seems to be right now. Boost hits about 15 PSI (as set by MBC) by around 3500 and then crawls back to about ten after 5000. Is that normal? I may have been over boosting a little before and it would sit at about 14 steady without any drop off but I am sure now it was leaking out the OEM plastic POS BOV. So I probably had it cranked up and with the leak it just held 14. OR, is this new PSI drop off potentially another boost leak? I was using my buddies boost leak tester before so it is time I get one of my own. I will order it now and check it and give an update.
 

iloveboost

Proven Member
46
1
Jul 25, 2014
Vacaville, California
Ok. So I made my own boost leak tester and it works great. I was getting some leakage out of the slip style fitment on the BOV. I kept blowing it off with the adapter from NGR. Says on there website that their adapter ($20.00) will work as a weld on as well as work with the stock system. The reality it the adapter is too short and does not have the lip at the bottom. So the tighter I try and make it the more it wants to "pop" out of the sleeve. I got some PVC and fixed the problem but I decreased the output hole from the intake runner into the BOV. Hope that is not a problem. I purchased an ebay ($6.99 free ship) adapter that should work as it is longer and has the lip.

Wont matter much though cause my VRSF FMIC just came in the mail. I am still a few weeks from completely switch everything over to the new turbo and mods and I wanted to practice tuning with the stock system some what.

I am still having the boost drop off problem though. I do have a couple small exhaust leaks coming out of the corners of the manifold. They are small and you can only see them when the engine is cold as little puffs of exhaust escapes. Could these be the cause of the boost fall off as more air leaks out of the manifold as pressure increases? I do have an FP manifold coming soon. These exhaust leaks are causing my wideband to lie to me. Sits at 14.7 on idle but when under full boost drops to the 10.0 minimum. So it is showing running rich but I know its not because I turned up the boost and hit fuel cut while it was still reading 10.

I also seem to have more oil residue inside the intake track than before. So I bough a catch can and a Kiggly HLA regulator that will go on with the rest of the mods. I will also clean everything else out.
 

iloveboost

Proven Member
46
1
Jul 25, 2014
Vacaville, California
So a quick update. I still have not had time to put all my MODs on so I have been living with the boost going up to about 15 and dropping to 10. I got talked into go to the track the other day and I was running high 16s and 17s. So I decided to see if I could find a boost leak somewhere. I couldn't find any leaks except for air coming out of a small hole on the wastegate side of my hallman MBC. I dont remember any air coming out of there before. So just to see what the difference was I put the stock BSC setup back on. Now I seem to be boosting crazy like the wastegate actuator is not opening up. I think the hallman was blowing off air cause it couldn't push it into the wastegate. What should I do if the wastegate is not opening up? Are there some tips or tricks to getting it working without having to pull off the whole turbo?
 

oneslowwdsm

Proven Member
859
121
Mar 30, 2009
Spring, Texas
So a quick update. I still have not had time to put all my MODs on so I have been living with the boost going up to about 15 and dropping to 10. I got talked into go to the track the other day and I was running high 16s and 17s. So I decided to see if I could find a boost leak somewhere. I couldn't find any leaks except for air coming out of a small hole on the wastegate side of my hallman MBC. I dont remember any air coming out of there before. So just to see what the difference was I put the stock BSC setup back on. Now I seem to be boosting crazy like the wastegate actuator is not opening up. I think the hallman was blowing off air cause it couldn't push it into the wastegate. What should I do if the wastegate is not opening up? Are there some tips or tricks to getting it working without having to pull off the whole turbo?

Pretty slow time even for a bone stock DSM. The boost controller is supposed to bleed off air, it is normal. Honestly, IMO that T25 is toast. Never understood why Mitsu went with the garret on the 2G, huge mistake. Slap on a 14b,16g, or 20g. Do another boost leak test and upgrade everything else slowly.
 
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