Next day, another problem

[Usatuff]

ok just finished welding my gas tank. After that was done I emptied out all of the water, unless there was some I could not reach which I doubt. The car also had a HKS SSQV on it, non-recirculated. It was sputtering some, build about 2 psi at the most. So I put a stock 1G BOV on it. Recirculated properly, all hoses connected properly. Now It basically sputters nonstop. Once leaving a stop you really can not move the pedal otherwise it will sputter and buck like crazy. I have to give it so little gas, I can not build one pound of boost. After 3k rpm I gave give it a little more, still not enough to build any boost. At about 4500 RPM it will sputter a little and then start going but I still cannot push the pedal even 1/4 of the way down. In any gear if I let the car slow down to 2500 - 3000 RPM and try to speed up a little, under 1/4 pedal travel it bucks like a bull. If I try to go to about 1/4 peadl down or close to it it starts to backfire. Any ideas? I'm lost

Surging idle is now fixed. Did a boost test with it still hooked to the intake manifold and it didn't leak. Still can't get the pedal to go passed 1/4 way other wise instant backfire and sputter. Can only get to 5 psi of boost when driving. Can't get WOT or anything passed 1/4 pedal

Sorry for crappy pictures but they were taken with my phone.

This is an arm from a paper clamp holding on my shift linkage?

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What is this? It's just laying here with the wires connected but no vacuum lines?

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[dented_coffee]

The pictures are not working. I think I know what your talking about but I can't really put 2 and 2 together without fully understanding everything your saying. I will be posting again as soon as the pictures are up.

 

[shane90gsx]

Have you messed with the timing at all? check engine light? what have you done to the motor, how are you tuning it...etc etc. but a good place to start would be to....

check your computer to make sure the caps are good. Check timing via marks and with a timing gun to make sure your CAS is good. And it would be fuel related. why did you weld on your gas tank?

 

[Usatuff]

I have not messed with the timing at all. CEL was on but it was for a coolant temp sensor for the a/c, which I replaced. I have done no tuning. Car has an aftermarket clutch and exhaust. I have done nothing to the motor except remove a Home Depot boost controller. 1/4 throttle or lower the car will go slow i can only hit 5 psi of boosst. anything passed 1/4 of throttle and it backfires like crazy and does not go. Computer is all together and has not been messed with. I had to weld new studs on to the gas tank to hold the hanger because the last guy broke everyone of them and there was gas leaking out of the top and the car was always full of fumes

 

[Usatuff]

Ok, so I can describe it as a mid range stutter. Can't put the pedal down or really move it. Bought a brand new coil pack and nothing. I get good fuel pressure now because it starts on like the second crank. I can't get on it, I can't get WOT, I can give it about 1/4 throttle. That's it. Any Ideas?!?! I'm doing a fuel pressure test soon, my friend said it might be that or the pump not keeping up. Any other ideas though? Me and my dad are baffled

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Was it running fine before you welded your gas tank? Those are symptoms of a boost leak. You said that you did a boost leak test on the intake manifold but what about the turbo inlet? Starting at the intake manifold you are missing your entire intake tract and intercooler.

Also if there is any chance that their could be water in the tank you need to address that issue and get some good premium gas in there. Depending on how much water is/was in there you might be able to use a fuel additive to get rid of the water, they sell it at any auto parts store.

Hope this helps!

 

[Timechg]

This sounds like a massive boost leak, how did you reinstall the 1g BOV? Try doing a boost leak test, and make sure all your vacuum lines are properly installed including the waste gate actuator boost lines.

 

[chenk18]

I agree with them on the boost leak. My car did the same thing, only getting to 5 psi. It was leaking at every single coupler.

 

[Usatuff]

Did a boost leak test and it was fine. Drove with the MAF unplgged and it made little difference. What I ment before was a did aboost leak test with everything still attached. I got new coil packs, new plugs, new wires, new air filter, fuel injector cleaner. Going to pickup some dry gas today see if it works but I won't see why water in gas would only effect it mid range? Why not all the time? Thanks a lot everyone

Also why is there no make or grove on the harmonic balancer for the timing and where is the egr? I can't locate it anywhere.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Was it running fine before you welded your gas tank?

Still wondering...

Also why is there no make or grove on the harmonic balancer for the timing

There are actually 2 timing marks on the harmonic damper, they are on the middle and inner lips/ridges. They are just little notches so you might have to look closely.

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and where is the egr? I can't locate it anywhere.

The EGR is located on the passenger's side of the intake manifold. It it bolted to the side of the intake manifold pretty much under the throttle body. It looks like this:

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Hope this helps!

 

[Usatuff]

Still wondering...



There are actually 2 timing marks on the harmonic damper, they are on the middle and inner lips/ridges. They are just little notches so you might have to look closely.

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The EGR is located on the passenger's side of the intake manifold. It it bolted to the side of the intake manifold pretty much under the throttle body. It looks like this:

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Hope this helps!

Sorry man I missed that. I was kinda running ok before but it did not backfire. I could not find anything on my balancer just rust spots, haha. I'm not sure if I have an egr? I have a cyclone motor, don't know if it makes a difference. There's someting that looks like that under the manifold BUt it has no vacuum lines on it, it has wires?

 

[JusMX141]

Sounds to me like your MAS is dead if you cannot push the accelerator more than 1/4 of the way down without it backfiring and such. There's barely any boost being built at that point regardless....a boost leak couldn't be the problem unless an intercooler pipe is literally disconnected.

 

[Usatuff]

I was thinkg of switching to a 3" GM MAS in the future. Should I just go fo it now? And it seeme as if my waste gate actuater wa leaking on the boost test or I
just hearing my leaky air fittings on my compressor hose.

 

[white92talontsi]

Sounds like contaminated fuel. My car did the same stuff even though it alwayys started on the first crank.

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[JusMX141]

I was thinkg of switching to a 3" GM MAS in the future. Should I just go fo it now?

The GM MAS can be had for $20; it's the Translator that costs $150 or so. I'd just upgrade to a 2G MAS and be done with it.

 

[Usatuff]

Just got home and put some dry gas. Gonna wait awhile befoe I try anything. Thanks for the responses

 

[90gst_sean]

check to make sure all of your fuel injector wire harnesses are properly seated onto the injector. If you have messed around in that area maybe one got bumped. If the bucking issue feels like really harsh vibration through the engine and it is some what random, this may be the issue.

 

[Usatuff]

Found the problem. The guy rigged up the fuel pump hanger and the fuel pump sock was clogged. started runnning good. went out to go get new vac lines. car died. just got flat bedded home. FML

 

[Toyboxx]

Sorry for the thread bump, but I was searching around ### my car is doing pretty much the exact same thing.

Can't push pedal more than a 1/4 way before it spits and sputter horribly, also it's fine till about 5PSI before it does it as well. 1st % 2nd aren't too bad, but 3rd or higher it gets worse. Whats odd is it was doing this a couple weeks back, then went away. Then it started doing it a couple days ago again, so I replaced the plugs with NGK BPR7ES and gapped them at .028 and it went away for about a day and now its back again.

Also if I'm in 3rd and I downshift to 2nd and boost, it won't do it nearly as bad and pulls fine.

Current mods are
2G Ported Manifold
Buschur Racing Full 3" TBE
Aermotive FPR
Walboro 255LPH
Unorthodox Lightweight Crank Pulley
Turbonetics 60 trim turbo

 

[Usatuff]

I got mine to work. 1. The fuel filter was clogged. 2. The fuel pump filter, the bag on the filter was clogged. 3. The tank didn't make a complete seal with the fuel pump hanger. 4. Fuel injector cups were bad. And I think that was it. Check all of those and see if it makes a difference