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newbie here with a bov ?

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fieromx3

Probationary Member
18
0
Mar 7, 2006
elmira,
ok i just picked up a 1992 talon turbo awd yesterdat :D what is the stock boost level for the 1992? i thought it was like 15 but i was boosting 21psi up to redline..... also when i get to 6500rpm it starts to lose power and studder is this normal? also i cant post in the drivetrain section for some reason but when i try to shift in 2nd with the clutch to the floor it sometimes grinds a bit and the clutch fluis is topped up any ideas?
 
first you can't run the BOV VTA because the maf wigs out. The car shouldnt boost 21psi unless it haves a boost controller on it. your gauge could be either off or you have a mbc or something on the car. You really dont want to be running 21 psi and you may be running out of fuel up top and that's why it is studdering and falling on it's face.
 
oh and you probably cant shift into 2nd because the synchros are bad. Try changing the tranny fluid that might smooth things out.
 
fieromx3 said:
ok i just picked up a 1992 talon turbo awd yesterdat :D anyway i read u can vent the stock BOV without a 3'' maf? why? why cant u disconnect the rubber hose and plug the other end on the intake pipe? also what is the stock boost level for the 1992? i thought it was like 15 but i was boosting 21psi up to redline..... also when i get to 6500rpm it starts to lose power and studder is this normal? also i cant post in the drivetrain section for some reason but when i try to shift in 2nd with the clutch to the floor it sometimes grinds a bit and the clutch fluis is topped up any ideas?

Ok. Ill awnser your questions in the order you gave them. Yes you can vent the stock BOV all you have to do is remove the recirculation hose, but its not that good of an idea to do because it will cause your engine to run rich due to the MAF sensor measuring the amount of air before the BOV and adding fuel to that amount as needed for the correct ratio of fuel to air. SO IMO its not worth venting to atmos. just to hear psssst sound. The stock boost level I have is around 12lbs, but thats at hard accel. If you have a stock gauge then its probably wrong and it also doesnt go up to 21lbs, it stops at 14. Well Im guessing that your talon is stock, if it is then I would be going redline shifts until later and on the track, but it shouldnt studder when you are at redline, mine doesnt. The reason why you cant post in the drivetrain sec. is because you are a newbie and we are limited to here and the lounge and a few other places that I forget at the moment. The 2nd gear problem is that your 2nd gear synchro is going, it is a normal thing to happen to our cars. Not too hard or too expensive to replace, and if you do I would replace it with a double synchro.
well I hope that awnsers tyour question. Oh yeah and watch your puntuation(sp?)

EDIT** What he^^^said, try searching next time, 5 minutes of searching would have proved useful to you and awnsered all of your questions.
 
i will but changing the fluid i dont know if i should ive had bad experience with it ive done it twice and after that i needed a new tranny but that was on a atx.....and the gauge is brand new its a autometer 30psi gauge. it has mr7 rims, 3'' ss turbo back, hks turbo timer. thx for the help even though it isnt good news bout the tranny.
 
Wow, I think the first thing you need to do is read the rules of this board. You violated a ton with just your first post. Second, buy the manual on your car. It is your friend. Third, bookmark these websites and read everything on them. If you are serious about your car, you need to know this stuff. Finally, the first site has every single answer you need to know.
http://members.shaw.ca/costall/1000Q/
http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html

d
 
GOT EVO said:
oh and you probably cant shift into 2nd because the synchros are bad. Try changing the tranny fluid that might smooth things out.
Its a single synchro, unless there is a double synchro put in aftermarket which I highly doubt, and putting new tranny fluid wont really help, its a band-aid at the best and a poor one at that, then only way to fix it is putting a new 2nd gear synchro into it.
EDIT*** Yep those 2 site just above me are life savers and they have an awnser for everything that could and will go wrong with our DSMs.
 
fourreGsixty3 said:
Its a single synchro, unless there is a double synchro put in aftermarket which I highly doubt, and putting new tranny fluid wont really help, its a band-aid at the best and a poor one at that, then only way to fix it is putting a new 2nd gear synchro into it.
EDIT*** Yep those 2 site just above me are life savers and they have an awnser for everything that could and will go wrong with our DSMs.


I know it's a band-aid. I should have elaberated a little more.
 
ok srry for the questions and thx for the links those were actuallt very helpful thx for the help and i will search from now on
 
Did you check to make sure your wastegate has a source connected to it? If not, that could be the reason you're boosting so high.
 
the reason you are seeing 21psi is probably because of your exhaust. a 3'' exhaust on a 14b will causes boost spiking. does your car jump to 21psi and then drop back down to 11 or 12 psi? if it does than you need to do some research about boost creep and how to eliminate it.
 
no if im driving say 4th gear it will go up to 10psi and then it goes to 15psi then gets to like 5500 rpm and goes right up to 21psi and holds it i wish i known this isnt normal i hope i didnt cause damage but u could really feel the extra power when it went that high
 
Yea i'd say a vaccuum line is unattached. Try checking your Boost control solenoid. Unless it already has a boost controller.
 
ok i will check that and no i dont got a boost control if everything is normal should i just get a manual boost control at set it at like 13psi just to be safe?
 
fieromx3 said:
ok i will check that and no i dont got a boost control if everything is normal should i just get a manual boost control at set it at like 13psi just to be safe?

I would not recommend a MBC until you know for sure what mods have been done to your car( ie.. FUEL mods). Your problem also might lie in a bad waste gate actuator. It is very simple to test and I suggest you do this anyways until you get your boosting problem squared away. Just take the hose running from the wastegate actuator and hook it directly to the nipple on the compressor housing outlet. This will eliminate any bleed off and make your wastegate open at the spring pressure.
 
ok well i found that the line is going from the waste gate right to the nipple on the discharge side...and it is in good condition and the intercooler piping seems to be good condition too. the owner said it was all stock except ported manifold and 3'' turbo back but he said he just put on the turbo which is brand new OEM part
 
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