New head.

[xXaTaXx]

My current one isn't broken, but I decided to grab another used one to rebuild w/ new valvetrain/cams.

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The area where the cam journal's are isn't completely smooth, when I was cleaning the head, I noticed that in a few journals-- there were small amounts of metal shavings and a few of the caps weren't completely flush with the head portion of the journal. All the indicators seems to be lined up and from that the caps look installed correctly. Any suggestions?

Those intake ports arn't bored, are they? I don't know and just wanted to know, it's going to a machineshop regardless ;p

Thanks
Chris.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Trash the head or go through the trouble of having the journals line honed. I don't know how many options will be open to you once you do that though. If you take enough material off, you'll need camshafts with larger journals.

 

[link16]

Did you get the head with a recipt, return it for another if that junkyard will let you. Most junkyards won't, but I have done enough buisness with my junkyard that they would do that for me. Just a thought.

 

[xXaTaXx]

Did you get the head with a recipt, return it for another if that junkyard will let you. Most junkyards won't, but I have done enough buisness with my junkyard that they would do that for me. Just a thought.

Not from a junkyard ;( but either way, I'm going to re-check all of the cap positions and what not because the person I bought it from kept the stock cams (I told him he could). I'm almost sure he didn't put them[cam caps] back in order/on properly. The stock cams looked worn out, not like ground down, but just plain old. Thinking about it, thats probably where the metal shavings came from, and minded that there was a VERY very small amount of it, almost not noticible. Aside from the arrows and L/R indicators, do the numbers on the caps play any significance in their position? Any help would be awesome.

P.S. - I'll take a picture of what I meant w/ the caps when I get new AA batteries after work. I don't know if I explained myself properly, but what I meant was not that the surfaces arn't/weren't smooth, the edges of the mating surface(s)/hournal are still razor sharp/without signs of grinding/abnormal wear. They just seem like the cap is .002mm off [just enough to catch my skin when I slide my finger accross. It's like when you bolt something together loosely, and you can 'slide' one of the parts[being bolted] an ever-so-small amount side-to-side.

Sorry, I'm just hoping that it's not as bad as I made it seem at first. Thanks for the quick responses!
Chris.

 

[Defiant]

Trash the head or go through the trouble of having the journals line honed. I don't know how many options will be open to you once you do that though. If you take enough material off, you'll need camshafts with larger journals.

Not meaning to toe-step, but that isn't how it's done. The shop does a slight flycut to the bottom of the cap, where it seats on the head, then align bores indexing to the bottom of the journal in the head. If there's significant damage to the bottom journal, it's welded back up before being cut.
I've not heard of an "oversize" cam.
Of course, this is what's done on heads that are hard to replace. On a DSM, you just grab a better head for fifty bucks.
Cams are some of the most over-bearinged devices in an engine. Unlike the reciprocating loads placed on a crankshaft, it deals only with rotational and nearly unidirectional loading. For the loads involved, cam bearing area is massive. Unless there is some very, very serious gouging or spalling, they'll survive just fine with the usual sort of scratches they'll invariably pick up.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Not meaning to toe-step, but that isn't how it's done. The shop does a slight flycut to the bottom of the cap, where it seats on the head, then align bores indexing to the bottom of the journal in the head. If there's significant damage to the bottom journal, it's welded back up before being cut.
I've not heard of an "oversize" cam.
Of course, this is what's done on heads that are hard to replace. On a DSM, you just grab a better head for fifty bucks.
Cams are some of the most over-bearinged devices in an engine. Unlike the reciprocating loads placed on a crankshaft, it deals only with rotational and nearly unidirectional loading. For the loads involved, cam bearing area is massive. Unless there is some very, very serious gouging or spalling, they'll survive just fine with the usual sort of scratches they'll invariably pick up.

I was implying going through the hassle of getting custom ground cams, which isn't unheard of for 420As/Neons. Either way, you're right... picking up a new head is almost always the best route.