New future goals, and considering Nitrous E316g setup!

[Black_Bullet]

I started really sitting down and thinking about what I want with the car, and though im not sure yet I can say I like the I get quick spool of the 16g and even just on pump gas the car is already pretty quick. Plus you cant beat the reliability of the MHI turbos, especially when seeing so many bad threads on new turbo upgrades. Im not a newbie, I know a bigger turbo would be great, Ive been doing this dsm thing for a while now, but Id like to try something different.

So basically, I think I am going to just skip the bigger turbo upgrade; and instead on nights I want to really have fun, or go ape mode at the track, id just get a 75 or 100 shot for the car... I have some decent connects on getting setup with it for cheap also. Now Im not very read up on using nitrous and I dont completely know what to expect, the only nitrous car Ive been in was all motor not boosted...
From people with experience what type of nitrous setup would best suit my needs, what brand, should I go wet, dry, direct port? Does 100shot sound too little, too much? What will change with tuning?

Now, Im thinking with my mods and a 100shot on e85, it could push me near 500awhp.
Though I have a 6bolt, I only have ARP's, but maybe Id Oring the head for the extra cylinder pressure.
Id need to freshen up the bottom end for sure; so Im thinking while Im at it Id go with some 9.0:1 forged pistons, rering it, new bearings, new pumps and just leave everything else stock. ( Building on budget.)

Opinions, constructive criticism welcomed.

 

[1992awdlaser]

Deffinately go with some form of a wet kit. I would personally go with direct port since you know all the cylinders will be getting an equal amount of nitrous.

Not sure if I would try a 100 shot on it with stock rods. I would just get some cheap eagle rods. I see them for sale on the link forums some times for around $250. A 75 shot I would deffinately feel safe doing with stock rods though. I'm going to try it with my 50 trim in a few months.

The only thing with tuning is at first you will want to pull some timing across the board. The air/fuel should stay about the same if you do use a wet kit. Use this to get your jet sizes. Nitrous Oxide Jet size and HP Calculator nos n2o Use your base fuel pressure(37.5). Turn the boost down some at first also because the nitrous will make boost go up. Since you have an external gate I would just start with spring pressure.

I highly recommend you get a pressure activated bottle heater. I don't like the temperature activated ones because they can't actually read bottle pressure. If you don't want to spend the money on the pressure activated one, I would get one you control and just shut it off once the nitrous gauge reads 950-1000. You do plan on buying a nitrous gauge right? You will also need a blow down tube for the track. Most tracks inforce that rule. I have only been to one where they will let you run without a blow down tube.

Any more questions?

 

[Black_Bullet]

Thanks

Yea I still have a lot of questions .

Well I already have a Autometer nitrous gauge I got free.
* Were do people tap for the wet shot?
What about if it was direct port. How crucial is it to go direct port on 100 shot or less?
Im not trying to over complicate this either; im trying to keep the nitrous setup rather simple.
I dont think id go direct port to keep the cost down.

Now as far as my fuel system, I currently run 48psi base fuel pressure ( nt fpr) and I have 850cc injectors and walbro HP 255lph. Does this fuel system sound like it will suffice; ( keep up with the needs of e85/n2o>?)
I know the fuel pump starts to strain at higher pressures, especially when starting with the base fuel pressure too high. Will I have to start with a lower base fuel pressure? I dont plan on running more than 28psi or so on the 16g. I currently run 25lbs now on pump gas.

* Your probably right about the stock rods, i think ill save a little longer to get the eagle.
The engine build part isnt taking place until next year anyways.
Does Oringing the head sound necessary, or will my stock headgasket with ARP's be enough for the cylinder pressures of e316g and 100shot?

* How does 9.0:1 compression pistons sound for this build? Someone told me with e85 to go even higher?

With e85 and high boost high timing would I be better off just running a 75shot and still getting some good numbers? I mean like I said, I think with e85 alone I will be deep into the 11s.

I can adjust my timing and set up a nitrous chip, but I can only lower my boost to 20psi ( waste gate pressure.) I have heard about the boost spiking hard because of the nitrous.

Im going to have to look into the activiated bottle heater thing you were talking about.
Do I really even need to heat the bottle, I live in FL

And as far as the blow down tube thing, Ive never heard of that.
Your suggesting I need it to run nitrous at the track.
When I go to the track they've never inspected inside the car or anything?

 

[1qkfwd]

I figure I would skip the PM and just post this for you. I have a bit of NOS experiance with our cars. For your goals I would stick with either a dry shot or wet shot. Stay away from the direct port. It gets very expensive to run a direct port. Not to mention if you want baseline tuning you cannot get jets smaller than a 75 shot. On your setup a wet shot would be the way to go. Just make sure that whatever power you makeoff bottle that your fuel system can support whatever shot you decide. Running E85 you will max out that fuel pump a lot sooner than you think. You should get a 1:1 regulator though. I found with the stock regulators that they will 1:1 up to a certain point (I believe it was 13-14lbs) then they would quit climbing. It would cause a lean condition at the top end. With NOS you do not want that.
As suggested above start with a lower boost level and I would say start with the smallest jets that the kit comes with. Less chance for engine damage incase something goes wrong.
I burn my own chips also so I know the control you have. Just make sure the car is tuned before you put the NOS on. Try and find a way to burn a section of your chip that you can control your NOS. Rpm on/off, Throttle above/below certain percentage, knock count below X amount of counts. I am working on a way to get the ECU to switch over to the octane map when using NOS so that I can have a tunable timing and fuel map also. That way you can fine tune the NOS to get the most out of it.

 

[Black_Bullet]

I figure I would skip the PM and just post this for you. I have a bit of NOS experiance with our cars. For your goals I would stick with either a dry shot or wet shot. Stay away from the direct port. It gets very expensive to run a direct port. Not to mention if you want baseline tuning you cannot get jets smaller than a 75 shot. On your setup a wet shot would be the way to go. Just make sure that whatever power you makeoff bottle that your fuel system can support whatever shot you decide. Running E85 you will max out that fuel pump a lot sooner than you think. You should get a 1:1 regulator though. I found with the stock regulators that they will 1:1 up to a certain point (I believe it was 13-14lbs) then they would quit climbing. It would cause a lean condition at the top end. With NOS you do not want that.
As suggested above start with a lower boost level and I would say start with the smallest jets that the kit comes with. Less chance for engine damage incase something goes wrong.
I burn my own chips also so I know the control you have. Just make sure the car is tuned before you put the NOS on. Try and find a way to burn a section of your chip that you can control your NOS. Rpm on/off, Throttle above/below certain percentage, knock count below X amount of counts. I am working on a way to get the ECU to switch over to the octane map when using NOS so that I can have a tunable timing and fuel map also. That way you can fine tune the NOS to get the most out of it.

Thanks for the response.
As of right now what im looking at is going with a 10lbs bottle, a Zex wet kit, a purge kit, and a 75 shot pill, and if everything works out right then Id upgrade to the 100shot pill later down the line after I do forged rods and pistons.

What program are you using to burn your chips? I use Evilscribe. It might be slightly shallower than TunerPro if thats what you use? Im not completely sure on how I would run a HEX code for nitrous activation ( Im not too fond of the Hex coding) but I will talk to my friend about it as he knows more than I.

So far for knock defense I have a knock alarm that goes off with anything over 10 counts of knock; its connected to the purge solenoid. If I ever hear that I let off so I normally dont give knock much chance to ruin anything if I ever do knock.

Id get a really good base line tune first before spraying obviously, and I am pretty good at tuning my car. Im thinking Id have three chips Id keep available with me at all times in the car, one chip for optimum pump gas tune, another chip for a optimum E85 tune, and another for a optimum nitrous tune. It only take me literally 2 minutes to swap out a chip.

Now I understand that E85 requires more fuel and I push the limitations of the fuel system sooner. How does this tie into with the nitrous requirements?
Like I said I have FIC 850cc injectors, the Non turbo 48psi fuel pressure reg.
( Its actually 47.6 psi base FP but it does rise on a 1:1 ratio like the stock turbo FPR's.)

Ive never heard of them only rising to a certain point? Or do you mean just with nitrous?

I probably would upgrade some of my fuel lines, and fuel filter, but other than that
does this fuel system sound adequate for my goals? Im just looking to get my fuel system to safely support up to 500awhp on N20 and E85... If anything maybe Id setup a intank twin pump setup.

 

[Black_Bullet]

Also my friend thats helping me out with this nitrous project,
he gave me his nitrous gauge and his full throttle activation switch that I guess kicks in only once the bottle is opened and the switch is up and your foot to the floor at WOT.

Since Id have a spare chip just for the nitrous tune, Im thinking Id just open the bottle, go wot and flip the switch whenever I wanted it to be spraying and close the switch when I wanted to stop spraying.

For example, say Im at the track, I do my 2step launch, and soon as I bang second gear I flip the switch and spray thru the rest of the track... Sorry if these questions are basic, I really dont know much about nitrous setups....

 

[1qkfwd]

What program are you using to burn your chips? I use Evilscribe. It might be slightly shallower than TunerPro if thats what you use? Im not completely sure on how I would run a HEX code for nitrous activation ( Im not too fond of the Hex coding) but I will talk to my friend about it as he knows more than I.

I am using the flash and burn program that came with my burner. Its just raw hex and I have to convert it all into numbers. No real program. I have a thick notebook with all my notes and I keep a calculator handy for all the conversions.

So far for knock defense I have a knock alarm that goes off with anything over 10 counts of knock; its connected to the purge solenoid. If I ever hear that I let off so I normally dont give knock much chance to ruin anything if I ever do knock.

Now take this and wire it up to your NOS system so when you see a certain amount of knock instead of beeping it shuts the NOS down to prevent further damage.

Now I understand that E85 requires more fuel and I push the limitations of the fuel system sooner. How does this tie into with the nitrous requirements?
Like I said I have FIC 850cc injectors, the Non turbo 48psi fuel pressure reg.
( Its actually 47.6 psi base FP but it does rise on a 1:1 ratio like the stock turbo FPR's.)

Your fuel pump in this case should be able to support the amount of HP that the engine is going to make with the NOS and the turbo together. I think you may be pushing the 255 right at the edge of what it will make with E85. I haven't had a chance to play around E85 since we don't have it anywhere close to get it. Do a search on how much Hp the 255 will be able to feed running E85. The injectors should be enough to feed the engine for the turbo. Just remember running a wet shot it provides its own fuel for the power of shot that you decide to run as long as you get the right jetting. If your to lean on the bottle go up one jet if your to rich go down a jet. No computer tuning needed.

Ive never heard of them only rising to a certain point? Or do you mean just with nitrous?

I did a test with my walbro 190lph. I ran a fuel line in cab (dangerous I know) while running a stock FPR the base pressure with the line disconnected was around 43-44psi. Its a little to high but it works. When I started building boost the fuel pressure would rise 1:1 until it hit 54 psi fuel pressure and it would stop there. I could continue to build boost all the way up to 18lbs, which means the fuel pressure should be over 60 psi when all said and done. I boost leaked tested the FPR thinking it was leaking pressure after 11psi but it held solid all the way to 20psi.
If your going to run any kind of ZEX kit and make decent amount of power I would suggest to upgrade to a good 1:1 fpr so you dont lose that high rpm fuel pressure you need right in the middle of the power band. Zex should also already include a wot that you have to setup. It hooks to your TPS wire and only WOT the box will come on. I have had great success with ZEX and love running there dry kits.

 

[1992awdlaser]

I guess you did have some more questions.

Were do people tap for the wet shot? What about if it was direct port.

Upper intercooler pipe after the maf at least 6" away from the throttle body. Direct port has a nozzle that goes into each intake manifold runner.

How crucial is it to go direct port on 100 shot or less?

Not crucial at all with a 100 shot. Like I said, I just prefer direct port to get an equal amount of nitrous into each cylinder. With a regular wet kit the amount per cylinder will vary slightly VERY slightly.

Now as far as my fuel system, I currently run 48psi base fuel pressure ( nt fpr) and I have 850cc injectors and walbro HP 255lph. Does this fuel system sound like it will suffice; ( keep up with the needs of e85/n2o>?)

That will be fine since the nitrous fuel solenoid gets tapped into the pressure line(somewhere before the fpr). Since it gets tapped here it doesn't put any more strain on the injectors.

Will I have to start with a lower base fuel pressure?

No. Just input your pressure into the link I posted before and it will tell you what fuel jet to use and aproximate hp gain.

Does Oringing the head sound necessary, or will my stock headgasket with ARP's be enough for the cylinder pressures of e316g and 100shot?

With a stock headgasket I would oring the head.

How does 9.0:1 compression pistons sound for this build? Someone told me with e85 to go even higher?

9.0:1 will be fine with the E85. I wouldn't go any higher.

With e85 and high boost high timing would I be better off just running a 75shot and still getting some good numbers? I mean like I said, I think with e85 alone I will be deep into the 11s.

The 100 shot with less timing should gain more power than the 75 shot with more timing.

Im going to have to look into the activiated bottle heater thing you were talking about.
Do I really even need to heat the bottle, I live in FL

Yes, you absolutely have to heat it. When you turn the bottle on it will get colder and the pressure will go down. And when you spray it the bottle will get cold,also making the pressure go down.

And as far as the blow down tube thing, Ive never heard of that.
Your suggesting I need it to run nitrous at the track.
When I go to the track they've never inspected inside the car or anything

Most tracks follow this rule that you need to run a blow down tube with nitrous.If the pressure in the bottle gets too high there is a vlave that will open on the bottle to release the pressure. The blow down tube will vent the nitrous out of the car instead of it filling up the car. Nitrous Express Nitrous Bottle Blow-Down Tube Kit - JEGS

 

[1992awdlaser]

I figure I would skip the PM and just post this for you. I have a bit of NOS experiance with our cars. For your goals I would stick with either a dry shot or wet shot. Stay away from the direct port. It gets very expensive to run a direct port. Not to mention if you want baseline tuning you cannot get jets smaller than a 75 shot. On your setup a wet shot would be the way to go. Just make sure that whatever power you makeoff bottle that your fuel system can support whatever shot you decide. Running E85 you will max out that fuel pump a lot sooner than you think. You should get a 1:1 regulator though. I found with the stock regulators that they will 1:1 up to a certain point (I believe it was 13-14lbs) then they would quit climbing. It would cause a lean condition at the top end. With NOS you do not want that.
As suggested above start with a lower boost level and I would say start with the smallest jets that the kit comes with. Less chance for engine damage incase something goes wrong.
I burn my own chips also so I know the control you have. Just make sure the car is tuned before you put the NOS on. Try and find a way to burn a section of your chip that you can control your NOS. Rpm on/off, Throttle above/below certain percentage, knock count below X amount of counts. I am working on a way to get the ECU to switch over to the octane map when using NOS so that I can have a tunable timing and fuel map also. That way you can fine tune the NOS to get the most out of it.

The only thing more expensive about direct port is the initial purchase,nothing else. You can most certainly get jets smaller than a 75 shot. Nitrous Express 17009 - Nitrous Express Nitrous Jets - JEGS That's smaller than a 75 shot even when using direct port. I have never heard of a stock regulator stop raising 1:1.

 

[1qkfwd]

The only thing more expensive about direct port is the initial purchase,nothing else. You can most certainly get jets smaller than a 75 shot. Nitrous Express 17009 - Nitrous Express Nitrous Jets - JEGS That's smaller than a 75 shot even when using direct port. I have never heard of a stock regulator stop raising 1:1.

I didn't even think to look at NX for there jets. I have a summit here where i live and we went through the books for nos and I think the smallest jet they had was a .16 or.18, I would have to check my stash of jets. That is good to know for future references.

I ran a hose off the fuel filter into the car and I had three FPR's do the same thing. Two where turbo FPRs and one was off a non turbo car. Maybe I have three bad FPRs.

 

[1992awdlaser]

I ran a hose off the fuel filter into the car and I had three FPR's do the same thing. Two where turbo FPRs and one was off a non turbo car. Maybe I have three bad FPRs.

Not saying it can't happen.Just saying I have never seen it. There is actually a well known guy that made 708whp with a stock fpr.

 

[1qkfwd]

Just input your pressure into the link I posted before and it will tell you what fuel jet to use and aproximate hp gain.

Its best if you ran your car with the stock base fuel pressure so the fuel pump flows the right amount of fuel at the right pressure. The flow of the fuel pump will fall off the higher the pressure.

With a stock headgasket I would oring the head.

O-ring the head is not even worth the bucks for what this setup has. There are other options that can hold just as much power if not more. A mls head gasket and standard arp's will go a long way. If that doesn't work the L19 head studs will hold off even the pressure of a 4202. If that doesn't work felpro sells a head gasket that Jake Montgomery (evil_eagle) uses with standard arp's and swears by. He quotes "with this head gasket I didn't have any problems with 44 lbs of boost and a 100 shot of NOS."

 

[1qkfwd]

Not saying it can't happen.Just saying I have never seen it. There is actually a well known guy that made 708whp with a stock fpr.

I can believe that. I just believe in more efficient ways to build my car so it is easier to tune and less parts to buy.

 

[1992awdlaser]

He quotes "with this head gasket I didn't have any problems with 44 lbs of boost and a 100 shot of NOS."

Its best if you ran your car with the stock base fuel pressure so the fuel pump flows the right amount of fuel at the right pressure.

This is why you tune a car. He won't have a problem with it since he is tuning for it. I agree, if he wasn't tuning he would have a problem though.

O-ring the head is not even worth the bucks for what this setup has. There are other options that can hold just as much power if not more. A mls head gasket and standard arp's will go a long way.

He specifically said with a stock head gasket. A stock head gasket probably won't last too long with this setup without an o-ring. And you have to have a perfect finish on the head and block surfaces for an mls gaket to seal correctly.

If that doesn't work felpro sells a head gasket that Jake Montgomery (evil_eagle) uses with standard arp's and swears by.

And the price difference between that and a stock head gasket is more than it would cost to oring the head. His best bet is a stock gasket with an oringed head. Tons of people have made a lot more horsepower than he will be with this same setup.

 

[Black_Bullet]

Thanks you guys for covering all those questions.

I was considering the Oringing of the headgasket because my dsm friend/mechanic Drew of Darkside Performance;
swears by it and I was just going by information he's given me... Ive heard of other issues when upgrading the composite headgaskets. I was preferably going to stay with a stocker with ARP's.

If I am going the nitrous route, and I can be fully setup with nitrous and everything I need plus the additional fancy gizmos for less than 500 bucks.
I think this will be a very fun and torquey setup. I may just start off spraying a 50 shot jet on pump gas to make sure everything is panning out the way it should be, and then if so, Id jump it up to a 75shot on pump, and then maybe even a 100 shot on pump... When I start using E85 and pushing my tune ( timing/ afr ) a lot harder then I will limit myself to a 75shot until I can do forged pistons/rods. I plan to take this car off the rode and relieve it of its DD duties before the years over anyway!

So the boost will spike really hard when running the nitrous due to the dramatic increase of cylinder/exhaust pressure? I run 25psi falling to 23 redline on pump gas. On E85 I actually didnt plan on running much more than that, my aims with e85 are for much more aggressive timing and AFR's.
I wouldnt mind if it spiked no more than 30psi and held boost a little longer only when on the spray since I have e85 for knock control, but Im curious how bad these spikes will be? Im not trying to kill the turbo either, 25psi imo is the sweet spot for the 16g that will still keep it reliable.

Also I recall reading a post were someone who was spraying nitrous messed his pistons and rods up when spraying during a NLTS? Can anyone confirm why he would've said that, or what's happening there?
I use the No Lift To Shift feature ALL the time. If it really is an issue I suppose Id just do half throttle NLTS's so that the nitrous wouldnt be still spraying since I wouldnt be 100% WOT.

 

[1992awdlaser]

I was considering the Oringing of the headgasket because my dsm friend/mechanic Drew of Darkside Performance;
swears by it and I was just going by information he's given me... Ive heard of other issues when upgrading the composite headgaskets. I was preferably going to stay with a stocker with ARP's.

The stock gasket with regular arp's and an o-ringed head will be perfectly fine. You won't have any problems with it.

So the boost will spike really hard when running the nitrous due to the dramatic increase of cylinder/exhaust pressure?

Basically, yes.

I wouldnt mind if it spiked no more than 30psi and held boost a little longer only when on the spray since I have e85 for knock control, but Im curious how bad these spikes will be?

I'm sure it will be 30psi or slightly more if you leave the boost controller where it is.

Also I recall reading a post were someone who was spraying nitrous messed his pistons and rods up when spraying during a NLTS? Can anyone confirm why he would've said that, or what's happening there?
I use the No Lift To Shift feature ALL the time. If it really is an issue I suppose Id just do half throttle NLTS's so that the nitrous wouldnt be still spraying since I wouldnt be 100% WOT

Hitting the rev limiter with nitrous is a no no, if you hit the limiter while spraying, especially with a dry system, the oem fuel will stop, and the notrious will keep spraying, resulting in an extremly lean mixture. You will need to let off a little so the nitrous disengages. This is one good thing about dsmlink, it has nitrous control in it and it will turn the nitrous off during nlts. Also with the stutterbox, you won't be able to have the gas to the floor when you are on it. If you do that you will be spraying while sitting still. Just let off slightly, you will still hit the stutterbox since the engine will still be able reach the target rpm.

Any more questions?

 

[Black_Bullet]

Hitting the rev limiter with nitrous is a no no, if you hit the limiter while spraying, especially with a dry system, the oem fuel will stop, and the notrious will keep spraying, resulting in an extremly lean mixture. You will need to let off a little so the nitrous disengages. This is one good thing about dsmlink, it has nitrous control in it and it will turn the nitrous off during nlts. Also with the stutterbox, you won't be able to have the gas to the floor when you are on it. If you do that you will be spraying while sitting still. Just let off slightly, you will still hit the stutterbox since the engine will still be able reach the target rpm.

Any more questions?

Ok So then my build next year will be Oringed head, fresh stock gasket, my current ARP's, Eagle rods and perhaps Wiseco 9.0:1 pistons. Doesnt sound too expensive if I piece the parts together early on.

What pistons are more recommended on a nitrous car? I know forged wiseco pistons would work good for what im doing but maybe someone else has a different preference in a certain piston brand or design or compression? I know its that way in Hondas.

As far as the NLTS and the 2step thing, that makes perfect sense as why the n20 damaged that guys motor since the fuel cuts during those events.. Doh.

Btw I dont do full throttle 2step launches now, more like 3/4 and then I go WOT after Im moving. This setup doesnt hook that good if I go full throttle 2step thru first because it comes out the hole with almost 13-14psi.
The 60fts are slightly better with a less aggressive launch. ( Difference of say 1.8 and 1.7)

Honestly I dont want to spray at all during 1st gear if I am launching, Im not ever going to put drag radials/ slicks on this car in fear of my drive train, and these street tires alone wont hook properly with that much torque off the line.
Id be happy with getting this thing consistently low 11s with mid 120mph traps on the spray with e85. I am looking to pull another 100lbs out of the car which will have it sitting right at about 2800lbs with me in it and a cage, so my track goals are very reasonable, btw I wonder how hard it will be to break into the 10s on this setup on street tires. That would be bad ass

 

[1992awdlaser]

I don't have a specific piston I would use over another because of nitrous. When I build my engine I will be using Mahle pistons because of the light weight. The only thing I am worried about with them is the short piston skirt. It might cause too much pressure on the cylinder walls when the piston is half way up or down and the crank is pressing the rods against the wrist pin toward the cylinder wall.

I'm sure you won't have any problems hitting your goals.

 

[1qkfwd]

Piston choice is all personal preference. I run the weisco pistons and overheated the engine past 260 with 40 plus counts of knock. The whole engine survived.
Why don't you run the NOS on a momentary button that way while you shift you have to let off the button and no worries bout spraying at the wrong time. And then run a main power switch to have it armed.

 

[Black_Bullet]

Piston choice is all personal preference. I run the weisco pistons and overheated the engine past 260 with 40 plus counts of knock. The whole engine survived.
Why don't you run the NOS on a momentary button that way while you shift you have to let off the button and no worries bout spraying at the wrong time. And then run a main power switch to have it armed.

I guess that could work too... I dont know were id locate the button though.
I just need to look around at other ppls setups and get ideas. How is yours setup?

This one guy I know that sprays in his neon, he runs his button under the gas pedal and when the pedal is all the way to the floor it sprays, and he has a switch under the dash that activates it.

 

[JayRolla]

Good thread, since I'm thinking of a wet 75 shot. What is a safe timing when running the spray on e85, stock longblock?

 

[Black_Bullet]

Good thread, since I'm thinking of a wet 75 shot. What is a safe timing when running the spray on e85, stock longblock?

Good question.

Im thinking less timing with the nitrous and high boost due to the high cylinder pressures.
But what does it really come down to, supposing your not running past mbt with timing, and supposing there is no knock in the picture, and supposing your rods and pistons are rated to handle whatever horsepower your going to be making with no issues, why cant you run say 25-30psi, e316g; 23 degs peak timing, 11.5:1- 11.9:1 afr, 9.0:1 compression, and the wet 100shot for example. ( Because I had something like that in mind for the tune

 

[turbotalon1g]

i trap 120 all boost on the 16g.
*EDIT* sorry, i run FIC950s, E316G, 27psi settles to 22psi, E85, dsmlink. 3100+lbs plus me 196lbs.

I read your goal of low 11s/mid 120s trap on spray plus E85, i was just trying to show you that the bottle should put you way over that if you are gonna run 100shot.
Yeah with a built motor i see 130mph plus, i plan on running 100 shot stock bottom end, i am gonna work my way up slowly and once that one pops, i will most likely pickup another and leave it a little short of where the previous one went.

Again sorry for the original post.

 

[Black_Bullet]

i trap 120 all boost on the 16g

Do you have any time slips, videos, dyno sheets or at least even a list of mods to back this up.... Or else I dont know how to use this for my thread.

Trapping 120 isnt the problem, Id be able to throw race gas or e85 in my car and do that already right now ( supposing the clutch holds?)
This thread is more concerned about how the setup will respond on nitrous, and the path I should take with my nitrous setup... Im still going to do about another 80-100lbs of weight reduction and with e85 in the tank and the motor built with 9.0:1 compression and stronger rods, and with a 100 wet shot I plan on actually shattering a 120mph trap.... More like 128-130 mphs in the 1/4 with the Evo316g....

 

[1qkfwd]

I guess that could work too... I dont know were id locate the button though.
I just need to look around at other ppls setups and get ideas. How is yours setup?

This one guy I know that sprays in his neon, he runs his button under the gas pedal and when the pedal is all the way to the floor it sprays, and he has a switch under the dash that activates it.

I had it hooked up to the fog light switch. I did the mod on vfaq.com so I could use the fog lights any time. I just used the factory wiring to activate the nitrous. I didnt like the activation switch on the left side of the steering wheel though. I would have to switch hands to shift just to turn it on. It took to much time. I redid the car and used the wire for the button on the end of the wiper switch. Its the one for the cruise control. Then I had a main arm switch that would give the system power. The cruise button would ground out the relay I used and would spray the nos only when pushed. I am using dsmlink on this car so I had the safey features wired up through the ECU.

On my EVO3 16G setup I was running 26degrees of timing that would settle down to 23-24 degrees by the end of the run this was before the spray. I added more fuel through the maf-t so it lowered my timing, so with spray the timing was close to what it was without spray if that makes any sense.