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Nitrous on E316G??

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Need some people that have done 16g with nitrous... I know they're here somehwere..

Some of my experience with nitrous/small turbo:


I ran a 14B/7cm nitrous combo back in 2004 when we did the Grassroots Motorsports $2004 challenge:

started the season with a junkyard motor (literally the head was laying in the grass outside for months)
no machine work..we just slapped it together with new stock hg. (pushed coolant from day 1). But hey, we had to build a car for $2004.00 including the car purchase, so obviously we had no budget for any motor work.

The car was about 3100lb with driver. Went 12.2 @ 108 without bottle in $2004 trim. Tiny PTE fmic, no exhaust, hacked 1g maf,racegas, walbro pump with 450s and stock reg. Our tuning variable was basically boost controller and cutting away maf sensor till it ran good. No AFC, no chip, no budget. 16" street tires, I think they were falken azenias.

We used a generic NOS brand wet kit. The car went 11.7 @ 117 with a 75 shot and 11.9 @ 115 on 50 shot at the GRM race in Florida on pretty poor 60' times. The nitrous kit worked awesome for us and it ran pretty good for pushing 1/2 quart of coolant every run. (I think the motor compression tested in the 130's at the GRM race)

We brought it home, put on 550's/vpc and a set of drag radials on weld drag wheels to run it at the Mitsubishi shootout race at Etown that spring. Went 11.44 @ 118 with I think 110shot nitrous jet and the 75shot fuel jet. The car still had a stock FPR so we tuned the AF via upping the nitrous jet till it ran clean. By this time the HG was wasted and we were overflowing the coolant can every pass.

Then we put a fresh longblock in the car with stock cams/intake. It was eagle rods/wiseco 8.5cr pistons. Same 14B/7cm turbo with stock ic pipes and stick 1g sidemount intercooler. It went 11.9 @ 111 like that for the Shootout stock appearing class (little turbo & no fmic or n20). Motor broke due to Tbelt incident before we could put the nitrous back on

anyway, I know it's a long story but it illustrates in general that a wet nitrous kit can be used very effectively on a small turbo car.
at 50hp jet it seemed to be worth a solid 6-7mph (108 to 115)
75hp jets seemed to took it to 117
110hp jets did 118

the gains need to be taken with a grain of salt due to the headgasket being more blown with every pass, we were likely adding more nitrous and losing half the additional power to lost compression. Literally that 11.44 @ 118 pass at Etown the car was empty of coolant and the HG was gone between the middle cyl. It wouldn't even run enough to get in the trailer.

I bet if we would have put 100shot on the fresh engine, it would have seen 122-123 and 11.0 on the 14b/sidemount.

As far as the 16g turbine housing being too small for nitrous...I think there will always be a diminishing return with how much you can get out of any turbo/turbine housing. But power is power, be it 50hp of compressor airflow or 50hp of nitrous.

If you are running an e316g flat out at 30+psi, Im not sure how much power you will see at the ground adding nitrous to that, but its certainly going to make SOME additional power. Maybe the "50shot" will only be worth 45 due to turbine back pressure. Maybe 75 will only net 60whp and 100shot won't do much more.

It's certainly not like "it just won't work: <-- that's foolish.



I'v have a wet kit on my GVR4 right now that I'm itching to get back to the track and try. With 37/22 50shot jets, Im hoping for a mid 10 @ 130 up from 11.1@123.

But plans may change and I'm thinking of putting the GVR4 back to streetcar everyday use and putting a e316G back on with stock manifolds and tone it down a bit. I'd still use the nitrous with the 16g at the track.

What is the most common way to tap in for fuel? I thought peopel tapped on a AFPR, but I guess that doesn't make sense?

If you had a stock FPR and stock fuel lines where would you tap?

For a car with the stock fuel filter, lines, and regulator: Buy a B&M fuel filter kit. It's about $20 and has a nice banjo bolt with an 1/8" NTP threaded hole that replaces the top banjo bolt on the fuel filter. You can run the fuel line to the threaded hole instead of the gauge. When you eventually get an adjustable regulator, it most likely will have a gauge port as well.
 
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