new engine broken in wrong QUICK REPLY

[1gcrazy]

Ok so i'm buying this guys shortblock. Its bored 20 over with a Wiseco/Eagle combo and Federal Mogul bearings, all arp, oil pump and balance shafts removed. Stock crank. He says a Mitsu Tech built it back in Texas where hes from. Motors got right at 1762 miles on it. All for 1000 shipped.
He's leaving for Iraq tomorrow and I need to know whether this is cool very very quickly.
He told me the engine made 422 at 26psi on pump gas. I asked him when the dyno was done and he said right at about 200 miles...
I was a bit ok with it but I can't tell whether its because i want to get my car running or not.
He told me that the tech who built it says the engine needed to be broken in the way it was meant to be driven daily. I assume he drove it like he stole it.
So basically in my mind is i'm buying a built motor for a grand shipped that was hardly broken in, maybe right maybe wrong....
I believe we're going through paypal so if its messed up i can always recourse.
WOULD YOU BUY IT?

 

[92awddsm]

one last question before I piss off 1gcrazy. What specific brand of non-synthetic oil and filter did you guys use to break in your engines before switching to synthetic?
-thanks

I personally prefer Castrol oil and either puralator or wix filters.

 

[mavisky]

I did the most ghetto rebuild known to man on my motor.

4g63 nt block with 110,000 miles
4g63 nt crank with 110,000 miles
4g63 turbo rods and pistons with 130,000 miles
new rings, new main and rod bearings

Ball-honed the cylinders, slapped the rings on (didn't even gap them), and pounded them into the bore with some assembly lube. New bearings installed clean with lube, reused front case and old oil pump.

First 50 miles were 30-60 sprints in third gear, never taking it out of gear and wot at 18psi on the 14b I had (biggest turbo I owned at that point). Changed the oil and put in some regular 10w-30 for the next 1000 hard miles. Switched that out for Mobil 1 20w-50 after that. That was 8000 miles ago and the engine's never given me a problem outside of some bad valve stem seals in the old and untouched cylinder head (150,000 mile turbo head).

Car still makes good compression and power, and survives it's hard floggings, this car is rarely driven politely.

 

[olmytsi]

Any benefits from running 20w50 as opposed to 10w30?

 

[andymoraitis]

It'll be more resistant to heat and thermal breakdown. I talked with Keith about this and as an engine builder he's always run 10W-30 in the winter and 10W-40 in warmer weather. My machine shop recommended 15W-50 synthetic but I noticed it was blowing a bit of oil through the turbo. Changing to 10W-30 helped as it runs a slightly lower oil pressure than the thicker stuff.

 

[mavisky]

Heat break down resistance and more bearing protection at higher rpms. I've had to massively port my oil pressure relief valve though to keep oil pressure in check but it still gets pretty high.

 

[olmytsi]

Thanks for the information guys.

 

[eric91gst]

I am also putting in a new clutch with my rebuilt motor. Act 2600 with fidanza FW. I was going to break my motor in hard but what about the clutch? Also is the step height on the fidanza FW already good to go right out of the box to bolt up with the act clutch and motor, or do you have to get it correctly stepped.
-thanks for all yor help

 

[1gcrazy]

My suggestion would be to
A. put an oldie clutch in because a few hours of work is DEFINATLY worth having a reliable motor in the long run.

OR

B. Dont launch the car....just ease into the clutch and then floor it.

OR

C. Run the clutch on another car. This seems a bit out there so it probably a long shot unless youre like alot of the people on here with like 17 of the same car...Problem is. That clutch needs to be on a running car to break in

 

[1gcrazy]

OH! and by the way guys, I didnt' have enough time to buy that motor. So he's just gonna keep it.
I did find another motor from a guy on here for the same price. Except he's running, JE on Eagle. I'm a bit worried about the piston slap. He says you can't hear it on cold starts. Says its got about 4k on it.
JE on Eagle, clevite rod, .020 over, all arp, no bs, stock crank on stock bearings, Total seal rings, compression was at 180-185 across the board and he broke it in like a bat outta hell. Which is gooood. I'm having a guy go check it out for me soon so hopefully everything turns out fine. Let me know what yall think and if theres anything I should watch out for.
Thanks guys

 

[eric91gst]

thanks 1gcrazy I will ease out the clutch and then floor it. But, can anybody answer my question I had earlier about the steping of the fidanza FW with an act clutch. Is the FW and clutch ok to just bolt on right out of the box?

 

[2gAWDTalon]

I am also putting in a new clutch with my rebuilt motor. Act 2600 with fidanza FW. I was going to break my motor in hard but what about the clutch? Also is the step height on the fidanza FW already good to go right out of the box to bolt up with the act clutch and motor, or do you have to get it correctly stepped.
-thanks for all yor help

No launches or fast shifts and the clutch will be fine. You can still go WOT on a new clutch. Just dont go slipping the hell out of it or jamming gears. Heat cycles have alot to do with the break in on a new clutch...

 

[eric91gst]

ok thanks for the info but noone has asnwered my question about the fidanza FW having the correct step height to bolt on with the clutch and motor right out of the box.
-thank you

 

[fallenauthority]

Sure, that's why the first 30 miles manage to take care of almost 85-90% of the seating process. The rest happens in the next 1000 or so miles although my compression had pretty much peaked at about 1500 miles. At that point I switched to synthetic and it went up just a hair more.

Lenny: There's always a chance that shavings from the motor could be fed through the turbo. I broke my stroker in with the turbo I was running and it did nothing to it, but if I was running something high dollar I would have probably picked up a spare turbo to run just for the first few hundred miles. Some people insist that you need to use a different turbo and some don't. Experience varies so it's really tough to call.

I agree with the hard break-in process. I did it on my wiseco/1g 6 bolt and i had 180compression across the board by 500 miles. I drove the car to my work from the shop (about 2 miles) then changed the oil to 10-40, drove it at 14 psi with hard accel and decel using lots of engine braking and changed oil again at 100 miles. And due to a couple oil leak problems the oil ended up being changed rougly every couple hundred miles till about 1200 miles. Motor currently is at 1700 miles and runs strong, doesnt burn a drop and still has its 180psi compression across the board. Im a firm believer of the hard break in. If a motor is going to break, its going to break whether you drive it hard or soft, its just a difference in how long until it breaks.

 

[92awddsm]

ok thanks for the info but noone has asnwered my question about the fidanza FW having the correct step height to bolt on with the clutch and motor right out of the box.
-thank you

The step height should be correct on the flywheel out of the box. If you have concerns, check it before the install. Step should be .610" +/- .002".Only you can tell if it is correct, you just need to know what it is supposed to be before you can determine if it is correct or not.

 

[nightspeed87]

i just broke in my new 6bolt motor ( which was rebuilt twice ) but both times I broke it in I took it on the highway at a time when there wasnt much traffic and did hard 2nd and 3rd gear accelerations to about 6k rpm and a lot of downshifting under about 10 lbs of boost that spiked to 15 ( boost creep problems, another story ) But I agree if the engine is going to have a problem it wont be because of the hard break in, it would be there whether your break it in hard or soft. Boost is the key to breaking it in as it puts the most pressure on the rings so dont be scared to boost it as long as its at a safe level and not knocking.

 

[Wells]

The mototune break in "secrets" aren't meant for turbo'd motors pushing 20 plus psi. I broke mine in that way, but with the least amoujnt of boost possible. It's probably not going to hurt it, but it's not the ideal way to start off with a new motor.

The mototune guy suggests a calculated break in, not just a "run the piss out of it" break it.

 

[nightspeed87]

The mototune break in "secrets" aren't meant for turbo'd motors pushing 20 plus psi. I broke mine in that way, but with the least amoujnt of boost possible. It's probably not going to hurt it, but it's not the ideal way to start off with a new motor.

The mototune guy suggests a calculated break in, not just a "run the piss out of it" break it.

This is true, but proffesional racers run their engines hard during break in because like what was said before if its going to break its going to break no matter how hard it was run; but were talking about driving on redline either though. Just moderate shifts at wot ( not letting it redline ) but getting on it.
Breaking it in harder just insures the compression will be complete and stay strong to prevent blow by. Now since the motoman theory is more so talking of non turbo engines, Id believe the boost itself plays a key role in breaking in the car since our compression is generally lower than n/a engines ( less compression, less pressure on the rings. )
But id agree you shouldnt have to turn the boost up high either to break it in properly, id think 10lbs would do.

 

[mavisky]

There's a difference between a calculated hard break in procedure and beating the piss out of the car. Mototune suggests the former, not the latter, and I agree wholeheartedly.

 

[playitlouddsm]

I guess i didn't get the memo when breaking in my engine. I took it easy for the first 1000 miles, then did a compression test and ended up with 195+ accross the board. This was just a basic rebuild, stock 7 bolt crank, rods, and new pistons. Haven't had many problems with the car other then getting the thing tuned correctly. Oh and the turbo taking a shit on me.

 

[fallenauthority]

I guess i didn't get the memo when breaking in my engine. I took it easy for the first 1000 miles, then did a compression test and ended up with 195+ accross the board. This was just a basic rebuild, stock 7 bolt crank, rods, and new pistons. Haven't had many problems with the car other then getting the thing tuned correctly. Oh and the turbo taking a shit on me.

I dont see that being possible with stock 7 bolt compression being 180psi.