new engine blue smoke...

[Alex Bland]

Hey i just got my car back and was just woundering if they smoke for a little bit while breaking it in..? its got 70 miles on the engine and its never gone about 40mph so yesterday i went on on the main road and went 60 and a little blue from 4th gear and a good puff from 5th thats all. i thought maybe its still settling. New pistons rings and bored out.

 

[#40Fan]

Have you seated the rings yet?

 

[Alex Bland]

tbh im not sure how if its just driving it (i think it is) then no theres 74miles on the engine sence the rebuild. I rebuilt turbo already. Oh and after i got it back i blocked off the oil like over flow tube that cmes from the valve cover too the air intake i dont think thats why but im sure u know more then me.

the shop also told me its good to get good vaccume going so i always down shift a little earlyer for the engines sake.

 

[jlr2196]

Intercooler piping could have oil in it if you didn't clean it out, depending on if you rebuilt the motor due to a hole in the piston or anything that could have contaminated the intake system or exhaust (I don't think exhaust would still be smoking after 40 miles though). I know mine smoked for a few days because I didn't clean out my I/C due to a bad piston and thought perhaps something was wrong, like a bad turbo seal but it kept clearing up over the course of a few days. It then dawned on me about oil in the intake system.

 

[Alex Bland]

i took out the intercooler right befor i took it in and cleaned it out. Im thinking mine will stop soon ive got 70< miles in 3rd gear like 30-40mph only about 4miles going 50-60mph and finaly in 5th gear.

 

[DSM AWD TSI]

I just rebuilt my engine and it doesn't smoke whatsoever (except between shifts because I have a vented BOV, which is going back to recirculated soon) and I have driven it like 250 miles already. Before I rebuilt it there was no smoke whatsoever either though, so there was no oil anywhere in my intake system. The way I "broke it in" was by taking it out (right after I started it for the first time and let it warm up) and doing 9 pulls: 3 pulls from 3000-4000 RPM light on the throttle and letting it "engine break" on the way back down to 3000 followed by the same thing but from 3000-4500 and back down at moderate throttle and finally 3000-6000 heavy throttle. So good so far, going to compression test it soon

 

[Alex Bland]

Lucky haha. maybe its just still burning off some oil (i hope so) i herd going over 4k rpm's on new engine is a no no for the first 500miles. i just reading about other car threads and they say that new engines can burn a little oil untill the rings seat

 

[Epic904]

You shouldn't block the valve cover's breather tube as you might be causing your motor to have blow by. Just leave it open if you don't want oil in the intake or get a catch can.

 

[DSM AWD TSI]

Yeah but I read the whole "break in" super-merged thread (which is super long ) and in there I read the process that some guy did where he took two sportbikes and broke them in differently then raced them for a whole season and dissected them at the end of the season and found that the one he broke in using a similar method to the one I used was in way better shape. I also primed the oil by cranking the engine a lot before starting it (no spark plugs, no injector wires).

 

[jlr2196]

I know there are a million methods to "properly" break in your engine but as a former performance engine builder for a living, my suggestion is to take it to an area that has around a 3/4 mile or more uphill grade. Not too steep but something that is going to put a fair amount of load on the engine, from there just do some 3rd gear or 4th gear pulls from 3500 rpm to 5500/6000 rpm. What gear you use just depends on the road your on speed limit wise but you do need to use 3rd or 4th gear only. If you can take it to a chassis dyno then that would be your ultimate engine break-in solution since they have load adjusting programs just for engine break-in. I have broken in many engines on the chassis dyno & it is by far the best, I've had a couple engines that were built pretty loose on the piston to wall clearance making seating the rings a little tough, they actually wouldn't start without squirting oil in the cylinders to keep the engine from bleeding off compression. I put it on the chassis dyno and ran the load program, rings seated in great and never had any issues afterwards. Point in all this is that load on the engine seats your rings and nothing else. By the way, don't use synthetic oil to break-in your engine either. Good luck

 

[Alex Bland]

i think (im gunna take it off tomarrow) but my problem might be that i blocked off the valve vent hole.