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New ECU and now leaking fuel on intake...

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TUI2I30

15+ Year Contributor
223
9
Aug 9, 2005
Frederick, Maryland
ignore this post, go here (page 2) instead. :)

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=197760&page=2&pp=25

I am picking up my talon today, it has been sitting for a few months. The car's old ECU had the capacitor problem and fried the original ECU. I got a new ECU for the car yesterday and installed it. Now while the car is idling it is dumping fuel on the intake manifold and running pig rich. I believe that it could be a stuck injector or relay. It could also be the ECU (I have a warranty) or the SAFC settings. The fuel pressure regulator is set at 42lbs at idle. Any thoughts on this would be helpful. I'd really like to drive it back home instead of trailering it. Thanks in advance.
 
What are your AFC settings?
You might want to have out the injector seals if you're dumping fuel externally.
 
I can get the SAFC settings, but I don't know them. Other people I am talking to are suggesing seals as well. I'm acutally going to pick up new seals tonight to see if I can get this worked out. thanks, if anyone else has any ideas please let me know. Thanks.
 
I found them for 1.23, I have them holding 2 packs. Fel Pro part# ES70600, 4 in a pack. Do you know if they upper and lowers are the same size? This is the only part number i have. Anyone here with caps to get me the mitsu part numbers for uppers and lowers? Thanks.
 
The upper and lower injector seals are not the same.
You're probably better off taking out an injector and taking it to them with the seals on it. The top seal is a small o-ring. The bottom seal is a big fat ring. It usually sticks in the manifold when you take the injector out. It's black.
 
Go to Mitsubishi dealership and tell them you need to get them replaced...

Napa wants 10X more money then the dealership for these... Strange yes, but for once the dealer isn't the one screwing you. Don't forget to lube up the o rings with some spit :thumb: I had the first one tear but i had extras so don't forget ;)
 
TUI2I30 said:
The fuel pressure regulator is set at 42lbs at idle.
The base pressure for 1g is 37psi with the vacuum hose off and abut 28psi with vacuum. If the reading of 42psi is with vacuum hose connected, you're off by 14psi. I'm guessing B&M Command Flo. :notgood:
 
oldman said:
The base pressure for 1g is 37psi with the vacuum hose off and abut 28psi with vacuum. If the reading of 42psi is with vacuum hose connected, you're off by 14psi. I'm guessing B&M Command Flo. :notgood:
I figured it was too high. I'm not sure what regulator it has on it, but I'll dig it up tomorrow. I found that the injectors were not leaking. I checked the install on the AFC and it looks like crap. I'm going to solder the connections and double check them since it was installed on the car when I got it. It is running pig rich and dumping fuel right in to the exhaust and sounds like it has a miss. I have a case of plugs for it so I'm going to change the plugs, fix the wires, and set the fuel pressure tomorrow. Hopefully that clears it all up. Thanks for the feedback guys, I'll post results tomorrow. I'm also going to zero out the AFC since I didn't tune it to begin with. :D

ddavisaf said:
The upper and lower injector seals are not the same.
You're probably better off taking out an injector and taking it to them with the seals on it. The top seal is a small o-ring. The bottom seal is a big fat ring. It usually sticks in the manifold when you take the injector out. It's black.
Thanks for the info! Your help is greatly appreciated!
 
TUI2I30 said:
It is running pig rich and dumping fuel right in to the exhaust and sounds like it has a miss. I have a case of plugs for it so I'm going to change the plugs, fix the wires, and set the fuel pressure tomorrow. Hopefully that clears it all up. Thanks for the feedback guys, I'll post results tomorrow. I'm also going to zero out the AFC since I didn't tune it to begin with.
If you zero out the afc, how will you compensate for the 650s. I didn't see a logger in your profile so I strongly suggest that you not drive the car until it's tuned. Make sure to write down the setting and store it some where safe. Good luck.
 
Nevermind, I just checked again and you do have a logger. :) Still though, get it tuned first.
 
oldman said:
If you zero out the afc, how will you compensate for the 650s. I didn't see a logger in your profile so I strongly suggest that you not drive the car until it's tuned. Make sure to right down the setting and store it some where safe. Good luck.
Didn't think of about the injectors. Thanks. I'm to excited to have my toy back. I'll settle down, I promise. I'll get stupid again when I have the 5 speed conversion done.. :D
 
I'd like to find someone in my area that could help me get the settings on the AFC right. It was tuned by road race engineering when it was installled according to the previous owner. As it has been sitting it has had the battery disconnected as well. How long will the AFC hold it's settings?
 
Figured it out. ::keeping fingers crossed:: I believe it is the ignition control module. It is only firing on 2 cylinders, 2 and 3. 1 and 4 are not firing. I have a spare coil pack which I swapped out and same thing 2 and 3 fired, 1 and 4 did not. Going to try to find one at the DSM parts store (junk yard) tomorrow. Well I guess that would be today. I fixed up the wiring on the AFC and ecu, most of the wires pulled out will a slight tug, unbelievable. Also changed the plugs. Check fuel pressue which was dead on at 38. oldman, I think you're right that it is a b&m command flo, guess that because of the b&m pressure gauge on top of the fuel filter. Can you recommend a good replacement for it? Thanks. Any thoughts on my description above?
 
TUI2I30 said:
Check fuel pressue which was dead on at 38. oldman, I think you're right that it is a b&m command flo, guess that because of the b&m pressure gauge on top of the fuel filter. Can you recommend a good replacement for it?
I'm assuming 38 was with the vacuum line hooked up therefore you're still overrunning the fpr by 10psi, the reason for this is because the B&M MODIFIER uses the same undersized return orifice (cause of fpr overrun) so you will not be able to turn the pressure down. You need a real afpr like shown here except of course, the B&M unit.

Any thoughts on my description above?
1. How did you check for sparks on 1 & 4? If you're sure about this and not just guessing, then it's most likely the coil.

2. You still can't drive the car until it's tuned properly.
 
oldman said:
1. How did you check for sparks on 1 & 4? If you're sure about this and not just guessing, then it's most likely the coil.

2. You still can't drive the car until it's tuned properly.
1st I checked the wires one at a time with the screw driver ground. 2nd I replaced the plugs and turned the car over, shut it down and pulled the plugs. 1 and 4 had not fired (perfect white and drenched with raw fuel), 2 and 3 had (slightly browned and were dry). 3rd, I put the plugs back in and replaced the coil pack(s), same issue. Then I removed the wires from the 1 and 4 and ran, same as before. Then removed 2 and 3 and and the car tried to fire but would not run. Both coil packs were tested this way.

My buddy did a resistance check with a multi-meter to see if the wires were OK. Fortunately for me that my buddy is a wizard at testing electrical circuits. There are some other test we wanted to run but ran out of steam... and daylight.

also, it does look like the AFC lost it's programming.
 
I fixed the way high fuel pressure. I do NOT have a b&m FPR, I'm not sure what it is (see pic). I had my fuel pressure down to 20psi. This allowed my car to smooth out some and run long enough to find a crack in my manifold, the EGT probe leaking (threads), and that my #4 injector was still dumping fuel constantly, and blowing it out the exhaust. I unplugged that injector and the car immediately began to run better and eventually began to fire burning up the residual fuel. Once the fuel was burnt it ran with a miss on 3 cylinders. I just ordered Lucas 550cc injectors for $209 shipped.

I love my car again! Once I get her going I need to replace the timing belt, I pulled the top cover and found that it was rubbing or has rubbed. Need to figure that out too now, geez, it never ends! :) Looking forward to getting my baby back on the road again! If someone knows what FPR this is please let me know, I'd like to find more info on it so I can be better informed on this unit. I may still replace with a buschur/sx FPR.

edit: removed photo since question was answered.
 
TUI2I30 said:
I fixed the way high fuel pressure. I do NOT have a b&m FPR, I'm not sure what it is (see pic). I had my fuel pressure down to 20psi. This allowed my car to smooth out some and run long enough to find a crack in my manifold, the EGT probe leaking (threads), and that my #4 injector was still dumping fuel constantly, and blowing it out the exhaust. I unplugged that injector and the car immediately began to run better and eventually began to fire burning up the residual fuel. Once the fuel was burnt it ran with a miss on 3 cylinders. I just ordered Lucas 550cc injectors for $209 shipped.
Sorry I do not recognize that afpr but if you're able to turn the pressure down then it's fine. What happen to you coil swaps? You can't really do anymore troubleshooting until you take care of the elephant in the room, tuning your afc regardless 650s or your newly purchase RC550s.
 
oldman said:
Sorry I do not recognize that afpr but if you're able to turn the pressure down then it's fine. What happen to you coil swaps? You can't really do anymore troubleshooting until you take care of the elephant in the room, tuning your afc regardless 650s or your newly purchase RC550s.
The coils are fine, as well as the power transistor unit. Once I got a helping hand and a few more heads on it, we found the stuck injector. Once the new injectors are in we will see if the car even idles smooth, adjust the fuel pressure to the one you recommended, and then I will seek out some help getting the AFC tuned. Thanks for your help. I took some more pics of the car and will post them when I get a moment. Again, thanks for your help.
 
TUI2I30 said:
If someone knows what FPR this is please let me know, I'd like to find more info on it so I can be better informed on this unit.
That's a rare SpoolinUp/Charged Air bolt on AFPR. I've got one on my car. Depending on which spring is installed you can raise and lower the fuel pressure relative to stock. It should be able to handle just about any in-tank fuel pump you care to run.

Steve
 
steve said:
That's a rare SpoolinUp/Charged Air bolt on AFPR. I've got one on my car. Depending on which spring is installed you can raise and lower the fuel pressure relative to stock. It should be able to handle just about any in-tank fuel pump you care to run.

Steve
Exellent, thanks!
 
Fuel pressure adjusted, car idles smooth (mostly) no more fuel being dumped. I cleaned the injectors with deep creep and let them sit/dry. I did this a few times and seems to have worked out. New Injectors are still on the way, and I got tired of waiting. Now I'm on to the next issue of a blown turbo. :( Thanks Guys.
 
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