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new clutch install, now misfiring and chatter

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dzolcali

15+ Year Contributor
146
0
Apr 8, 2005
Charlotte, North Carolina
I just had a new clutch installed...the mechanics swear up and down they did everything right and refuse to back and check it. the minute I drove off the lot I got a misfire...now i'm getting several misfires in fifth gear cruising about 3200rpm 75-80 mph...it seems to happen if i accelerate and then take off the gas.

can anyone link this to something done during a clutch install? Car is fairly new with no prior issues what so ever.

I also get a sorta rattling noise when letting off the gas pedal at higher rpms, around 3500rpms in all gears.

someone mentioned CVjoint or something, with an awd it has to have some pressure on the engine when slowing down or something and one could be bad causing a misfire.

any help would be much appreciated
 
I'd bet they just forgot to hook/bolt something back up. For the stumbling or "misfires" check your IC pipes, do a boost leak test. I've had the upper IC pipe blow off numerous times as everyone seems to forget to tighten it down. For the rattling, check that your axles aren't hitting anything, and especially that the driver's side carrier bearing is bolted to the back of the block. About 2/3rds of the way down this page: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100676
Also look at your brakes and suspension. Try to determine where it is coming from. Does it do it at 3500rpm if the car isn't moving, if it's in gear, out of gear? Etc.
 
in gear, every gear, as the car decellerates.......i take the foot off the gas I hear the noise...i push the gas back down...no noise.

I'm going to check the boost leak thing when I get home...do they loosen that kinda stuff on a clutch install?
 
oh yeah, it's a new fidanza clutch...and a new flywheel friction surface...the clutch has only been in production for a few months now...it's not bad unless it's the reason for this rattling...although I doubt it.
 
Definitely do a boost leak test. You have to take alot of crap off to do a clutch swap. I have done them quite a few times now. Since you have an after market clutch you need to ask the shop if they stepped the flywheel right because you dont step it to oem standards. Its a little bit less. Just barely anyways but enough to make a difference or cause a problem. Let me know when you find out and i will help you as much as i can.
 
You remeber seeing your clutch? There should have been some springs in the middle of it. Withtout those, you will get quite a bit of chatter when you put it into gear.
 
springs were in...flywheel is a fidanza, i replaced the friction disk which is supposed to be a perfect surface everytime...
what does the chatter sound like if the springs are wobbling or w/e. that may be the issue...
as for the misfires...probably boost leak? i was in fifth today on my way home after posting this...fifth gear started to get laggy and i was slowing down as I was pressing the gas a little...i put it in nuetral and let the rpms die down to a zero boost level....then back in fifth and it boosted up to max boost and i started to accelerate again...is that boost leak?
 
yeah i got one...they turned it off and then I got it again...shop didnt' tell me the code but ima take it to P1 sometime soon and get them to turn it off and tell me the code.

peace
 
Do you have a aftermarket boost gauge? Possibilities are that you're running rich for some reason. Check how many pounds you're running. You might be overboosting

About the CEL. They might have simply reset your ECU. That's why it came back. It takes some time for the ECU to reconfigure it's settings when it's reset.
 
well they reset my check engine the day I got the car back with the new clutch...i described my issues and they swore it was an electrical failure said "we can look into it for 69 dollars..." i figured they were scamming cause my cars never thrown a cel or stuttered misfired anything...

my boost gauge is installed properly by myself...and it reads around 12psi give or take a couple on full boost...

sometimes my boost gauge stops at zero and doesn't move, then after a few minutes it drops back down to a vacumm in HG then it goes back up to boost again...ive checked the line and i can't figure out why it does that, it only does it right after I start my engine up every so often. usually starts down into HG after about a minute or two of driving and then it works till i turn the car off again.
 
Ok so the noise is gone now...basically I got an issue in fifth gear with a random misfire...

I went to autozone and they can't scan my car for a CEL code unless it's 96 or newer...

I'm so poor right now :( Ima try to buy some plug wires and see if that fixes it.....if not I will save up for a diagnosis...:(:(:( i'm so poor
 
My 95 is an obd2 when i threwa cel i wnet to aoutzone for aread and they couldent plug into for somereason but then i went to Advance Auto and they could.
 
I just installed a ACT 2100 clutch kit in my car and I am having some problems like yours also. The car vibrates for a moment when i am decelerating and put it into second and slowly let the clutch out, it will vibrate for a second when it is engauging. I also am having some power production problems that weren't there at all before the clutch install- I put in a new big28 and it ran absolutely awesome before the new clutch, now there are major problems and my boost is dropping off from 12-13 down to 8-9 by 5500 rpm and it doesnt spool until 4300????!!! The motor flatlines very bad after 5k and I am also very frustrated that a clutch install could spawn so many problemsWTF . Keep us updated on the fix!!!!!!!
 
Mitsubishi jumped on the bandwagon with OBD-II. Standard if for 96+ model cars but some rare cases in manufacturers (DSM's, etc.) they have OBD-II put into these years. OBD-II is ideal for performance seeing that it can have greater control (more O2 sensors, faster computing boards, etc.)
Advance Auto does not charge, they just hold on to some collateral, like your drivers license I think.
Also just clearing a code does not fix it. Codes will clear themselves after many key-up drives if they are not CAT codes or Misfire monitors.
 
Ok so mine clears up after a couple key ups...so whats a CAT and whats the Misfire Monitor?

if mine is clearing up...it's probably not real bad right?
 
Are you actually getting Random Misfire? I think the code is "P0300".
And we agreed that 95's (even though 96 is the standard) had ODBII right? There should be zero problem connecting the standard ODBII scan tool at Autozone to your car. If they say we can't cause it's not a 96 or newer, just tell them it's ODBII give your license as colateral and hook it up.

Also just cause the CEL clears up doesnt mean anything. It means you have a chronic problem if it clears and comes back.
 
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