New car, new to DSMs, lots of problems

[MyBeatGSX]

First off, yes I did read all the site rules and I read the FAQ first and also read through the "1000 questions that have already been answered" that I found on a google search.

The post title pretty much sums it up. Let me give you all as much info as I know about the car and then the list of problems. FYI, I just got it 2 days ago, I have zero experience with DSMs, most of my modding work was done on Hondas and Saturns.

Car info:

1996 Eclipse GSX, 5 speed, ~106K on chassis and ~10k on supposedly rebuilt motor (was swapped in January 2003).

All these mods are coming straight off a shop invoice from the previous owner, I have no idea what else was modded/replaced, all work was done at Victor Research in East Hartford, CT. I'm listing everything even the small stuff.

"Used 1G Engine" which cost him $1,000. This was supposedly a motor from Pruven althought no one has proof of it.

"Used CAS" I have no idea what that stands for, anyone else know?

Small 16G
Walbro 255LPH fuel pump (incorrectly labeled as "walbro 255HP fuel pump", makes me question their intelligence, or maybe I'm wrong)
Aeromotive FPR w/gauge
Removed intake silencer
BG synchroshift trans fluid
NGK wires
K&N breather
Clutch master cylinder
Bosch O2 sensor (precat sensor)
"Used oil housing" does that mean the oil pan or the turbo center section? I've never heard of an oil housing...
Power steering serpentine belt
Alternator belt
Bushur Racing 3" catback (not currently installed but I'll be putting it in later this week)
4 Layer metal head gasket
OEM slave cylinder
Boost gauge
A/F gauge
ACT 2100
All new timing equipment
Brand new #2 O2 (install 2 days ago)
And also a large oval shapped K&N filter on what looks like the stock pipe
Parts total is a little over $5,000
Fuel filter was replaced at 68k on the original motor.

Boost reads 14psi (with a 15-16psi spike before leveling off) in the 80-90 degree weather we've been having and with stock exhaust. Base fuel pressure is a needle width short of 40psi, so that makes it like 38-39psi. The engine is a 1G with a 2G head. The previous owner said the shop claimed 300bhp, I don't believe it and it doesn't feel like it. But I do know its microscopically faster 40-80mph than a modded H22 Prelude (the only thing I've raced) and laughably slower than my friends B16 Civic at 12psi (or even 6psi).

Now for the big questions:

1. The oil pan leaks (2 half dollar sized drops on the cardboard in one night). Does anyone believe that a rebuilt engine would have an oil pan leaking after only 10k or did I get lied to?

2. I read on this forum about the MIL light with the 1G swap. What I didn't see mentioned was this shop's solution, cut the TPS wire. Is that safe or good for driveability?

3. When I first got the car the A/F gauge bounced kinda like it should at cruise (slowly, but it still bounced). Now it reads full rich almost all the time. Is the supposedly new O2 dead or is the engine actually running that rich? There is zero smoke out the exhaust with the engine up to temp.

4. When I turn the A/C on it blows ice cold almost immediately. Then it starts making a fairly loud ticking/clicking sound from (where I'm guessing) the compressor is (the back side of the engine on the side with the belts). Then it randomly alternates between cold air and outside temp air. The car also lightly bucks and surges and the engines runs like crap. Turn the A/C off and it stops right away. Whats the deal?

5. Whenever I've opened the hood, only the fan on the passenger side is running. Are the fans alternated or independantly turned on or is the drivers side fan broken?

6. The clutch catches on the floor but still haves the correct free play, so I'm guessing its not the bent fork/rod (whichever it is) problem, what else could it be?

7. The catback has no place for the #2 O2. Aside from the fact that it won't pass emissions, is it ok to run without it? If it is ok, can I use this O2 in place of the #1 O2 which could be dead?

What's almost laughable is that I bought the car because I thought it would be reliable and now I'm just waiting to be stuck on the side of the road. I know this is mostly a performance oriented group, but I'd apperciate it if you guys can help me get it running correctly. At the moment I just want to make it reliable not fast. Fast can come later....

Thanks in advance.

 

[TargeT]

"Used CAS" I have no idea what that stands for, anyone else know?

"engine swap" if it was a 6 bolt then its on the left (as you face the engine) of your head, its a Cam Angle Sensor

"Used oil housing" does that mean the oil pan or the turbo center section? I've never heard of an oil housing...

they probably mean the oil filter housing. very common to re use these & if it was a 6bolt swap your going to use a different one than the original

The previous owner said the shop claimed 300bhp,

its possible with a big 16g to get 300hp, just need the right tuning.

Now for the big questions:

1. The oil pan leaks (2 half dollar sized drops on the cardboard in one night). Does anyone believe that a rebuilt engine would have an oil pan leaking after only 10k or did I get lied to?

your really going to have to find out where its comming from, could be something simple.

2. I read on this forum about the MIL light with the 1G swap. What I didn't see mentioned was this shop's solution, cut the TPS wire. Is that safe or good for driveability?

your NOT supose to cut the TPS wire..., no clue why they would do that.

3. When I first got the car the A/F gauge bounced kinda like it should at cruise (slowly, but it still bounced). Now it reads full rich almost all the time. Is the supposedly new O2 dead or is the engine actually running that rich? There is zero smoke out the exhaust with the engine up to temp.

do you have any kind of engine management? AFC? chip, dsmlink anything?

4. When I turn the A/C on it blows ice cold almost immediately. Then it starts making a fairly loud ticking/clicking sound from (where I'm guessing) the compressor is (the back side of the engine on the side with the belts). Then it randomly alternates between cold air and outside temp air. The car also lightly bucks and surges and the engines runs like crap. Turn the A/C off and it stops right away. Whats the deal?

5. Whenever I've opened the hood, only the fan on the passenger side is running. Are the fans alternated or independantly turned on or is the drivers side fan broken?

one of the fans (the fan on the right as you face the engine bay from the front of the car) is the AC fan, only goes on with AC

6. The clutch catches on the floor but still haves the correct free play, so I'm guessing its not the bent fork/rod (whichever it is) problem, what else could it be?

bleed the clutch, probably wasn't done right the first time.

7. The catback has no place for the #2 O2. Aside from the fact that it won't pass emissions, is it ok to run without it? If it is ok, can I use this O2 in place of the #1 O2 which could be dead?

What's almost laughable is that I bought the car because I thought it would be reliable and now I'm just waiting to be stuck on the side of the road. I know this is mostly a performance oriented group, but I'd apperciate it if you guys can help me get it running correctly. At the moment I just want to make it reliable not fast. Fast can come later....

Thanks in advance.

these cars are very reliable when put together properly work out the bugs and i'm sure you'll be happy

 

[goat4g63turbo]

I'ma break it down like this. The search button on this site is now your best friend. That's step one in gaining experience with DSM's. A lot of your questions in your listing of what was done can be answered very easily in a reasonable amount of time depending on your internet connection.

The 255 HP "could" stand for High Pressure pump.....they make two different 255lph fuel pumps....you will need to research this for yourself..either way you got a big pump which will suit you fine.

Now on to some of your questions

1. The oil pan leaks (2 half dollar sized drops on the cardboard in one night). Does anyone believe that a rebuilt engine would have an oil pan leaking after only 10k or did I get lied to?

Every car leaks, DSMs are notorious......my car has leaked since the day i got it. Check everything and make sure all your lines and whatnot are good and not cracked or leaking.....A lil spot on the ground isn't really a big deal, but you may want to either try to get a better seal with your oil pan or perhaps purchase a new one.....IMO if I only had two little spots under my car everyday I'd be ecstatic, my car leaks like it's it job.



3. When I first got the car the A/F gauge bounced kinda like it should at cruise (slowly, but it still bounced). Now it reads full rich almost all the time. Is the supposedly new O2 dead or is the engine actually running that rich? There is zero smoke out the exhaust with the engine up to temp.

A/F guages are garbage....straight up looks nice, but only a wideband o2 is going to tell you your true a/f ratios.

6. The clutch catches on the floor but still haves the correct free play, so I'm guessing its not the bent fork/rod (whichever it is) problem, what else could it be?

Well it says you did the master cylinder of your clutch, now it's time to probably do the slave cylinder or maybe re-bleed the clutch. Check it out.


Now all these answers could have come from searching, that's how we all learn. Best bet search crazy for an individual problem and if then you can't find it, search once more then post a question if nothing comes avail. Also go on ebay and get the factory eclipse manuals on a cd....I got mine for 10 bucks shipped. You can't beat that with a stick.

Hope this helped somewhat, but you will get flamed by some for not searching so wise up and welcome to the community.

-Mike

 

[MyBeatGSX]

Sorry I didn't search for more of those. The only reason was that I'm extremely busy and wanted a quick response because I'm worried I bought a pile of crap. Maybe that will prevent flames... probably not. But thanks for the help.

The computer is stock as far as I know. The shop says it needs DSM link and that's on my list of lots of things to buy.

I tried the A/C again. When it ticks all the lights dim, so I'm guessing its an electical problem in the compressor clutch or something like that. Anyone got an idea?

 

[TargeT]

you might want to have your alternator checked to make sure it'sputting out the right voltage, a battery check wouldn't hurt either (both are free at shucks or the like..)

sounds like typical high milage car maintence stuff